Weight Distribution, Sway, and Tongue Weight

[jtelles3993]

I haven't checked the dimensions to see if this is a possible fit, but this is what I'm leaning towards:

http://www.wayfair.com/Unified-Marine-Square-U-Bolts-with-Strap-5008973-L851-K~QYM1363.html?refid=GX54800701140-QYM1363_10534811&device=m&ptid=75689840580&PiID%5B%5D=10534811&gclid=Cj0KEQiA6ounBRCq0LKBjKGgysEBEiQAZmpvA1ibvuZ_BXw26VJIzQhljHXbMYLSu6LMZrICAa_CV3IaAtWY8P8HAQ&filter=&curpage=1&sortby=67

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/6894/thread" timestamp="1424185199" author="@pinstriper"]Yeah, its more about the geometry of the mounting than the materials. Geometry wins every time. That's why corrugated cardboard works. 
[/quote][font size="3"]What?? Sir, are you implying our CLs are akin to cardboard?? Avast ye, knave! Back to the barn with thee![/font]

[pinstriper]

[quote source="/post/6900/thread" timestamp="1424186136" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/6894/thread" timestamp="1424185199" author="@pinstriper"]Yeah, its more about the geometry of the mounting than the materials. Geometry wins every time. That's why corrugated cardboard works. 
[/quote][font size="3"]What?? Sir, are you implying our CLs are akin to cardboard?? Avast ye, knave! Back to the barn with thee![/font]
[/quote][p]No, I'm suggesting adding a plate in the same plane that's already bending is like using thicker paper, and is less helpful than your lateral bolts.[/p][p]
[/p]

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/6903/thread" timestamp="1424186389" author="@pinstriper"][quote source="/post/6900/thread" timestamp="1424186136" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]What?? Sir, are you implying our CLs are akin to cardboard?? Avast ye, knave! Back to the barn with thee![/font]
[/quote][p]No, I'm suggesting adding a plate in the same plane that's already bending is like using thicker paper, and is less helpful than your lateral bolts.[/p][p]
[/p][/quote][font size="3"]You are, of course, correct. As for the thicker coupler, it will be stronger than the 2" OEM coupler, but the bolts will add less to this solution than to the 2" coupler. It's due to the longer bolts required to accommodate the jack post location. You almost have to see it to understand it.

As to the lawyer/warranty issues: I'd be in more trouble if I lost steering control due to a lack of required WD. Anything less than a full sized pickup will require some WD. Even a 1/2 ton PU will benefit from some WD. A coupler failure is the last thing I need in a trouble situation. Lawyers can be dealt with if I'm still alive. Of course, an F-250 might solve all my problems  .
[/font]

[pinstriper]

And once again, TANSTATMTV. It always comes back to that.

[david]

U-Bolts are not the best way to strengthen either the OEM hitch or the heavier hitch for the 28'er. When you tighten them it will deform the metal on the U side. Just use galvanized bolts with big washers under the head and nut with a lock washer also under the nut. Drill the holes close to the diameter of the bolt, so that the bolt will take the load in shear. Use 3/8" or 1/2" galvanized bolts that can be bought at Home Depot, Lowes or some hardware stores.

David

[jtelles3993]

I don't see the square u-bolt assy requiring that much torque, David? My thinking is, the assy would provide a support brace going entirely around the coupler and frame, positioned somewhere in front of the OEM coupler bolts?

[charliem]

[font size="3"]I'll also nix the U-Bolt idea. The extra support is already built into the coupler, but not utilized by LL with their mounting.

David: The shear loading is the only issue I had with the added side bolts. In order to accommodate the existing jack shaft the new coupler leaves 5/8" open space between the coupler and the frame on each side. Much less with the OEM 2" coupler. I filled this with several large flat washers to insure shear rather than bending load on the bolts. Afterthought says a piece of flat bar stock would have been better, but it's done now. The best solution of course would be proper installation at the factory.

Camp on!
[/font]

[jtelles3993]

Yea, not sure the square U-Bolt is a great idea either, but I'm trying to think of some way to wrap support around the coupler and frame without drilling holes through the frame?

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/6913/thread" timestamp="1424199526" author="@surfsup"]Yea, not sure the square U-Bolt is a great idea either, but I'm trying to think of some way to wrap support around the coupler and frame without drilling holes through the frame?[/quote][font size="3"]Surfsup,

Don't be afraid of drilling 1/2" holes in the frame out where you need them. There is essentially zero load out there on the ends and holes in the center (vertically) of a beam do not degrade its strength. The U-Bolts would only shift the single stress point forward. You need to take advantage of the truss structure of the coupler sides (more engineer speak).
[/font]

[jtelles3993]

Did you drill all the way through the frame or just to the inside of the outer surface?

[charliem]

[quote timestamp="1424204440" source="/post/6915/thread" author="@surfsup"]Did you drill all the way through the frame or just to the inside of the outer surface?[/quote][font size="3"]Just through the first surface. Check the pictures on the bent coupler thread. The nuts are inside the rectangular AL tubing. The far side of the tubing is inaccessible due to the jack mounting plates. If you do it yourself start with the coupler firmly attached with the four vertical bolts. Then measure and drill the sides with a 1/4" drill. Work up in steps to 1/2" or whatever size bolt you choose. BTW, the couplers come undrilled from the factory. All drilling is accomplished by LL or you if you start with a new coupler. Further evidence that the coupler manufacturer did not intend bolt mounting. If you do end up starting with an undrilled coupler, let me know. I've learned some tricks, having done two now.
[/font]

[jtelles3993]

Thanks, I did read your thread awhile back, but need to go find it again. I'd certainly have less apprehension only drilling through the frame's outer surface. The smaller the holes, the better.

No engineer here. My background is aviation mechanic and logistics, USN, 36 years... so now I'm looking at rivet data. Perhaps a short horizontal row on both sides along the lower lip? That would be similar to a weld seem. I'll get back on that.

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/6917/thread" timestamp="1424207194" author="@surfsup"]so now I'm looking at rivet data. Perhaps a short horizontal row on both sides along the lower lip? That would be similar to a weld seem. I'll get back on that.


[/quote][font size="3"]Not that familiar with rivet application, but you might have trouble drawing the rivets tight. There will be a space between the inside of the coupler wall and the adjacent outside surface of the frame member. It doesn't fit snug and you don't want the rivets to deform the coupler. But better to think through all options before cutting metal  .[/font]

[david]

A row of 4-6 large pop rivets on each side with appropriate washers to fill the gap would work. Use stainless steel cored rivets for best shear strength.

David