Weight Distribution, Sway, and Tongue Weight

[jtelles3993]

I'm thinking the same, but in lieu of washers, cut a sheet of aluminum so I can drill through it at the same time, for a nice tight fit.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Dang. I may learn something here yet. You're saying the pop rivets will withstand the shear and partial bending stress as well as a 1/2" grade 8 bolt?
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[jtelles3993]

It's a proven method of seaming metals while using and maximizing metal surface area as part of the strengthening process (without welding). Smaller holes, tighter tolerances, etc. It certainly works well on aircraft... ?

[spot1]

Many folks building experimental aluminum airplanes use aircraft pull rivets in the structure and AN solid rivets in the wing spars. The spars are very strong & light. One of the reasons I purchased a CampLite TT is because I'm prejudice and like aluminum   airplanes.

[spot1]

Did you drill all the way through the frame or just to the inside of the outer surface?

[font size="3"]Just through the first surface. Check the pictures on the bent coupler thread.
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Here's the bent coupler thread, trying to help!  

http://livinlite.proboards.com/thread/606/bent-coupler-on-21rbs

[david]

[quote timestamp="1424214261" source="/post/6921/thread" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]Dang. I may learn something here yet. You're saying the pop rivets will withstand the shear and partial bending stress as well as a 1/2" grade 8 bolt?
[/font][/quote][p]Charlie:[/p][p]
[/p][p]Yep, I think that four 3/16" stainless cored pop rivets would have the shear strength of one 1/2" grade 8 bolt.  The stainless core pop rivets require a relatively high "squeeze force" to pop them, and you can't do it with a hand tool. And since 4 squeeze points spreads out the contact area I'll bet the shear strength is about the same as one 1/2" bolt.[/p][p]
[/p][p]But I think for us non aircraft guys, a bolt is the easy way to do it.[/p][p]
[/p][p]David
[/p]

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Thanks David,

I'm familiar with rivets in structural steel, aircraft, railroad, boiler, and even Air Stream RV construction. However I associate these with solid core rivets securing two overlapping surfaces in direct contact. For this coupler application pop rivets are proposed and the surfaces are not in direct contact. Intuitively it gives me cause to pause, but I'm here to learn. Bolts seem easier, more reworkable, and a lot more verifiable. That said, however, maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks. Just don't move my food bowl  .
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[jtelles3993]

[quote source="/post/752/thread" timestamp="1398782087" author="@djsamuel"]Ken,

Thanks for the post. I didn't think it was too long of a post. The detail really helped.

I have the 21BHS and am towing with a Ram 1500. I towed it some without a weight distribution hitch. When I would lower the trailer onto the hitch, the Ram would only squat 1.5 - 2 inches; and would still sit nice and level. Towing without a WDH was really nice (black and grey tanks empty, and water tank 1/2 full). But, although I didn't experience any sway, I wanted some sway control before taking on any long trips. So, I opted for the Andersen WDH for a couple of reasons. The strengths of the andersen hitch are sway control and bounce control. It does distribute weight, but that is not it's strongest point. Since weight distribution was not a big need, and I did experience some bouncing when driving over small bridges, etc., I figured it would fit the bill. Also, the hitch just clamps on, and is light. So I installed the hitch and tightened up the chains to raise the rear of the truck about an inch, and took it out for a drive. It towed fine, but felt very stiff. I did not like the feel at all. So on my return trip, I set the chain tension to about half of what I had initially. That seemed to dial it right in. Now it tows great, is not distributing much weight since the truck's rear is not raising much when I tighten the chains, so I am not putting a lot of force on the frame. Now, I have great sway control, and it stops the bouncing, which is a nice plus for me.

So if it still doesn't feel quite right, try reducing the weight distribution further, but still utilize the sway control capabilities of the hitch. The 21BHS with the F-150 shouldn't require much in the weight distribution department. I know it doesn't with my Ram 1500.

Doug

[/quote]Doug, which Andersen hitch did you wind up getting? [a href="http://tweetys.com/andersen-no-sway-weight-distribution-hitches.aspx"][a href="http://tweetys.com/andersen-no-sway-weight-distribution-hitches.aspx"]link to various Andersen models[/a][/a]

[djsamuel]

[quote source="/post/752/thread" timestamp="1398782087" author="@djsamuel"]Ken,

Thanks for the post. I didn't think it was too long of a post. The detail really helped.

I have the 21BHS and am towing with a Ram 1500. I towed it some without a weight distribution hitch. When I would lower the trailer onto the hitch, the Ram would only squat 1.5 - 2 inches; and would still sit nice and level. Towing without a WDH was really nice (black and grey tanks empty, and water tank 1/2 full). But, although I didn't experience any sway, I wanted some sway control before taking on any long trips. So, I opted for the Andersen WDH for a couple of reasons. The strengths of the andersen hitch are sway control and bounce control. It does distribute weight, but that is not it's strongest point. Since weight distribution was not a big need, and I did experience some bouncing when driving over small bridges, etc., I figured it would fit the bill. Also, the hitch just clamps on, and is light. So I installed the hitch and tightened up the chains to raise the rear of the truck about an inch, and took it out for a drive. It towed fine, but felt very stiff. I did not like the feel at all. So on my return trip, I set the chain tension to about half of what I had initially. That seemed to dial it right in. Now it tows great, is not distributing much weight since the truck's rear is not raising much when I tighten the chains, so I am not putting a lot of force on the frame. Now, I have great sway control, and it stops the bouncing, which is a nice plus for me.

So if it still doesn't feel quite right, try reducing the weight distribution further, but still utilize the sway control capabilities of the hitch. The 21BHS with the F-150 shouldn't require much in the weight distribution department. I know it doesn't with my Ram 1500.

Doug

Doug, which Andersen hitch did you wind up getting? [a href="http://tweetys.com/andersen-no-sway-weight-distribution-hitches.aspx"][a href="http://tweetys.com/andersen-no-sway-weight-distribution-hitches.aspx"]link to various Andersen models[/a][/a]
[/quote]


I got the 3380 model, 2" ball, universal bracket. I ordered the 4" bracket but received the universal setup, but it works great.

http://tweetys.com/no-sway-weight-distribution-hitch-4-drop-rise-2-ball-5-6-brackets-3324-1.aspx

[jtelles3993]

Thanks. Once this hitch is dialed in, as I understand, you have to slack off the adjustment a few turns to disconnect the trailer and return to that same setting when you reconnect, right? Have you had any issues with that and/or the chain plate getting cocked?

[djsamuel]

Thanks. Once this hitch is dialed in, as I understand, you have to slack off the adjustment a few turns to disconnect the trailer and return to that same setting when you reconnect, right? Have you had any issues with that and/or the chain plate getting cocked?

It is very easy.  I just count the number of turns of the nut to provides the right tension. When I hook up, I lower tbe trailer onto the ball until it is seated and I can close the latch. I do not lower it any more. I then attach the brackets and hand tighten the nuts on both sides. I tighten the nuts the amount that gives me the best feel (in my case, three full turns on each side). Then I fully lower the trailer onto the truck. Once I want to unhook the trailer, I raise the trailer until the hitch is right on the ball. Then I loosen the nuts and remove the bracket and fully unhook the trailer.

[jtelles3993]

Thanks a bunch DJ... I've watched several YouTube videos of this hitch and still haven't found one that shows the actual day to day process of connection/disconnection. What you described is what I assumed based on my understanding of the hitch's 'new installation' procedure. There's also [a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO_QTxnJVN8"]this video[/a] on how to straighten the triangle plate, has this been an issue with yours?

[djsamuel]

[quote source="/post/7195/thread" timestamp="1424880655" author="@surfsup"]Thanks a bunch DJ... I've watched several YouTube videos of this hitch and still haven't found one that shows the actual day to day process of connection/disconnection. What you described is what I assumed based on my understanding of the hitch's 'new installation' procedure. There's also [a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO_QTxnJVN8"]this video[/a] on how to straighten the triangle plate, has this been an issue with yours?[/quote]No, straightening the triangle plate isn't a problem.  The only time it was even an issue is when I hooked up with the truck not straight to the trailer.  I've learned to make sure the truck/camper are straight when I unhook and hook up.  Since then, it hasn't even been an issue at all.  The first time it happened, I simply tightened up on one chain to turn the traingle plate.  The second time, I repositioned the truck.  After a couple of times, you don't even really think about it.

Doug

[jtelles3993]

10.4, thanks again!

[cadman70454]

What do you guys think about this electronic sway control?

http://www.direclink.com/swaycontrol.html