Weight Distribution, Sway, and Tongue Weight

[pinstriper]

My understanding is that the Andersen does not provide much WD and that it's the WD function that would cause the stress not recommended on the aluminum frames... ?

[p]I don't think I can speak definitively about the issue, but I *think* I can identify the issue. It is more like...the Andersen does not provide much WD, but if you did need WD, the frame-to-coupler connection would not withstand it. Or, would not withstand it being over-adjusted, the way steel would be more forgiving of overloading at the coupler.[/p][p]
[/p][p]That's how I see it. The aluminum frame to coupler connection has a narrower envelope than a steel system would. IMO many overload the WD hitch, and the all-steel nature allows them to get away with it in a way that aluminum frame and the connection to the coupler does, perhaps...not.[/p][p]
[/p][p]How's that for definitive ?
[/p]

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Pinstriper,

While you were out chasing circuit breakers you missed the essence of the coupler problem  . The coupler itself is not properly applied. It is designed to be welded along its periphery, but it is instead just bolted through the top, since steel can't be welded to aluminum (different melting temperatures). The 4 bolt attachment does not adequately support the coupler. The solution is simple and straightforward: add two bolts to the sides.  LL does this exactly on their toy hauler series. [/font][font size="3"]Check the before and after pix in the thread.[/font]

[djsamuel]

I have the Andersen hitch on my 21BHS.  I did not modify the trailer tongue/coupler at all.  After almost 6,000 miles, everything is fine, no deformation whatsoever.

Doug

[charliem]

[font size="3"]That probably bears out your observation that the Andersen doesn't do much weight distribution.
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[djsamuel]

[quote timestamp="1424053892" source="/post/6838/thread" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]That probably bears out your observation that the Andersen doesn't do much weight distribution.
[/font][/quote]
Correct, and especially with how I have it set up; very little distribution at all.  There is certainly more available than I am using; if I really cranked it down.  But fortunately, I don't need it, so I have it set for the most comfortable tow.

[pinstriper]

All of which supports my original assertion that if you use a WD that does any WD at all, it is really easy to go from "not enough" to "too much", without any middle state.

Kinda like liquor...

[geo92128]

Well I went back and reviewed all the threads again on the WD and weak coupler. Since our trailer is not scheduled to be delivered until late March, I have asked Sunny Island RV (SI) to contact LL and ask them to put the 28 ft. trailer coupler on our 21 BHS. SI sales indicates to me they have never had a problem with the coupler but will honor my wish. This is the 2 5/16 ball size. I will let you know what LL and SI response is when I get it. 
Thanks for all the input and comments; I hope this will end my anxiety regarding WD/coupler issues. I certainly realize from all the informative threads that I still have to be careful properly loading the trailer with the correct balance and tongue weight etc. 

[jtelles3993]

Well I went back and reviewed all the threads again on the WD and weak coupler. Since our trailer is not scheduled to be delivered until late March, I have asked Sunny Island RV (SI) to contact LL and ask them to put the 28 ft. trailer coupler on our 21 BHS. SI sales indicates to me they have never had a problem with the coupler but will honor my wish. This is the 2 5/16 ball size. I will let you know what LL and SI response is when I get it. 
Thanks for all the input and comments; I hope this will end my anxiety regarding WD/coupler issues. I certainly realize from all the informative threads that I still have to be careful properly loading the trailer with the correct balance and tongue weight etc. 

Unless they bolt it on differently I don't see how a 2-5/16" would make a difference - all things equal?

Let me clarify: I doubt that the OEM 2" coupler will ever be an issue unless you're going to rely heavily on a WD device to level out your TV/TT combo. So given that rationale, the 2-5/16" should definitely remove all doubt using little or no WD. If you plan to rely on significant WD, you should consider the bolt configuration, vertically and horizontally. LL probably won't help or advise you on that..

Right now (new guy here) I'm considering devising a method to strengthen the OEM coupler regardless of whether I ever use WD or not.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Having identified this problem and having been through it in detail, I'll make a few points:

[ol type="decimal"][li]The OEM 2" coupler with the OEM 4 bolt attachment will work for no or very limited WD.
[/li][li]The heavier 2-5/16" coupler with the OEM 4 bolt attachment will work with some WD, but not much more. This configuration is untested.
[/li][li]Either coupler with the OEM 4 bolt attachment and two added side bolts will solve the problem.
[/li][li]The 2-5/16" coupler with two added side bolts is probably overkill, but it's a better coupler, works much easier, and adds peace of mind.[/li][/ol][p]
[/p][p]Being an engineer I like margin. The basic problem is the way the OEM coupler is attached, not the coupler itself or the trailer frame size and material.
[/p]

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[fasteddieb]

I may be visualizing the issue wrong, but...

If it's the top of the hitch that's bending, could not one just have a triangular steel plate cut/fabricated to go on top of the hitch?To kind of "sandwich" the top of the hitch?

Seems like that would prevent the bending I've seen others post pictures of.

[charliem]

I may be visualizing the issue wrong, but...

If it's the top of the hitch that's bending, could not one just have a triangular steel plate cut/fabricated to go on top of the hitch. To kind of "sandwich" the top of the hitch?

Seems like that would prevent the bending I've seen others post pictures of.

[font size="3"]Yes you might be able to do that, but it's lots harder. The plate would have to be pretty thick to avoid bending because you would have to cut out the hole for the jack post[/font] [font size="3"]and the plate would have to extend pretty far forward. Beyond my fabrication capability; drilling to two additional bolt holes is a lot simpler.
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[geo92128]

Quick question regarding drilling the two holes on the side of the steel coupler to add strength; does this  void the warranty by LivinLite? This is my main reason to go with the thicker coupler using the 2 5/16 ball.

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/6890/thread" timestamp="1424182183" author="@monted"]Quick question regarding drilling the two holes on the side of the steel coupler to add strength; does this  void the warranty by LivinLite? This is my main reason to go with the thicker coupler using the 2 5/16 ball.[/quote][font size="3"]I can't answer the warranty question. I'm not lawyer and LL has their own. Normally a mod does not completely void a warranty. It would only if it can be shown that the mod contributed to a resulting failure. Enter the lawyer full employment clause. But I'll emphasize again, the 2-5/16 coupler by itself is not a complete cure. I'd ask that the coupler, either one, be installed with the side bolts like LL already does on their VRV toy haulers.
[/font]

[pinstriper]

[quote timestamp="1424184271" source="/post/6892/thread" author="@charliem"][quote timestamp="1424182183" source="/post/6890/thread" author="@monted"]Quick question regarding drilling the two holes on the side of the steel coupler to add strength; does this  void the warranty by LivinLite? This is my main reason to go with the thicker coupler using the 2 5/16 ball.[/quote][font size="3"]I can't answer the warranty question. I'm not lawyer and LL has their own. Normally a mod does not completely void a warranty. It would only if it can be shown that the mod contributed to a resulting failure. Enter the lawyer full employment clause. But I'll emphasize again, the 2-5/16 coupler by itself is not a complete cure. I'd ask that the coupler, either one, be installed with the side bolts like LL already does on their VRV toy haulers.
[/font][/quote]Yeah, its more about the geometry of the mounting than the materials. Geometry wins every time. That's why corrugated cardboard works. 

[jtelles3993]

I would err on the side that, yes it will definitely void the warranty regarding the coupler and the frame in that area.

I would also be concerned that in the off chance that the modified coupler or frame in that area was ever the suspected cause of an accident - the target of any law suit would be you and not LL.