Picking up our 21BHS!

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]OK. That seems to point to the trailer wiring between the 30 Amp connector and the power converter. Not sure what could be wrong, but it all points that way. Especially since the problem still exists with the main breaker off. The next step would be to physically disconnect the converter box. Time to call LL. How close are you to competent RV shop, not necessarily an LL dealer?

Where you have the trailer parked, is it electrically insulated from ground? The tires will insulate the axles, but is the tongue jack on wood or bare ground? Any water or sewer lines hooked up? I'm looking for a ground path.

And the little tester? A useful tool for the campgrounds.
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[tinkeringtechie]

Do you have a multimeter? If so, check these on the trailer (while disconnected):

[ul type="disc"][li]resistance between frame and ground (should be extremely low)[/li][li]resistance between hot and ground (should be open/no value)[/li][li]resistance between neutral and ground (should be open/no value)
[/li][/ul][div]
If any of those are different, then it should give you an idea of what's going on.[/div]

[fasteddieb]

When we disconnect from our site tomorrow, I'll check it out.

[fasteddieb]

As far as the hitch goes...

...on the drive over to Hiawasee, the whole setup felt far "jouncier" than before, kinda bouncy and too rigid over highway expansion joints.

May try only one link hanging on the trip home and will report back if that helps at all.

[fasteddieb]

On the way to SpringStream Friday I found I took things a little too far.

As a reminder, on my Flex I had lowered the ball, tilted it back a little and shortened the shank about 3" and things looked great with 2 links hanging.

But...

...as soon as we hit the road, things did not feel right. Everything was too stiff and "jouncy", and some expansion joints south of Blairsville, GA got the whole rig bouncing in a coupled fashion - quite uncomfortable.

So today, hooking up for the drive home, I left only one link hanging, assuming that the chains being too tight was the problem.

WOW! What a difference! I think I found the sweet spot!!! Much more compliant over the bumps, while not feeling loose or swaying at all.

As many advised, there's certainly some trial and error involved, but I sure like how it felt today.

[fasteddieb]

[quote source="/post/507/thread" timestamp="1397275747" author="@tinkeringtechie"]Do you have a multimeter? If so, check these on the trailer (while disconnected):

[ul type="disc"][li]resistance between frame and ground (should be extremely low)[/li][li]resistance between hot and ground (should be open/no value)[/li][li]resistance between neutral and ground (should be open/no value)
[/li][/ul][div]
If any of those are different, then it should give you an idea of what's going on.[/div]

[/quote]At the hangar, the GFCI popped there as well, even with NO extension cord, and with all the breakers off.

Just thrashed around a bit today. Frame and ground had little resistance. The only breaker that seemed to affect any of the below readings was the microwave.

Do any of these readings tell a tale (the other end of the cable was plugged into the CampLite)?

[tinkeringtechie]

The first and second picture look like the same contact points, but with different values. Which one was correct? If it's the first (which looks like 40ohms) that means your neutral and ground are connected somewhere with relatively little resistance. This configuration will still work, and shouldn't pose much threat (neutral is also grounded by the utility company), but the GFCI is basically comparing hot current to neutral current, and if any of it ends up going to ground then it will trip.

[fasteddieb]

Like I said, I was thrashing a bit. I think one is with the microwave breaker on, and one off.

I'll check with the friend that was helping me.

[tinkeringtechie]

What does that meter show for open/infinite resistance?

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]For another data point I measured my 2014 2RBS. Measurements were taken with a Radio Shack Micronta 22-182 Digital Multimeter at the trailer power connector with all breakers off:

Neutral to Ground[span]    [/span]open >20M ohms
Neutral to Hot [span]    [/span][span]    [/span][span] open >20M ohms[/span]
Hot to Ground[span]    [/span][span]    [/span][span]  open >20M ohms
Ground to Chassis[span]    [/span]0.2 ohms

The meter reads >20M ohms with leads open and 0.1 ohm with leads shorted.

Occasionally I did get a less than open reading [/span][/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"][span]from Neutral to Ground [/span][/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"][span]on the 20M ohm range which indicates there is some capacitance from the neutral to ground or chassis that is charging on the high resistance range. It went away with reconnection or switching to the 2M ohm range.

Picture 1 is disturbing in that it indicates a short from N to G. Pictures 3 and 4 could be the microwave clock/control board if the micro breaker was on and there was also an N to G short. Bottom line is there should be a complete open circuit from N to G, N to H and H to G with all breakers off. Anything else indicates a problem.
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[fasteddieb]

I'm going to go check further with an analog meter. Probably video it.

Can anyone tell me which prong is which? I know (think?) the one with the angle (lower right here) is ground:

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]Fasteddie,

You are correct. The prong with the angle is ground. Looking at the connector as in your picture the hot is left of the ground and appears gold or brass colored in the picture. The neutral is silver (white)  and to the right of ground. My connector has no such convenient coloring so I had to determine polarity with a meter. As a caution, with an analog meter you may see some instantaneous and short lived reading where you expect totally open. This is normal and due to [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]capacitance [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]charging  (engineer speak for it's OK).
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[fasteddieb]

Thanks! That was actually a stock photo I found online - don't recall if mine is color coded. I plan on labeling men for future reference, which is why I asked.

Headed to the hangar shortly and will attempt to video what I get.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]One other set of measurements: Check between each connector pin and and an aluminum camper frame member. The ground pin should read near zero ohms to the frame and the other two pins should read open or infinity with all breakers off. Anything else indicates a problem that could be mis-wireing or faulty equipment. Either way it needs to be fixed. Tinkeringtechie (Travis) noted that some leakage to ground would trip the GFCI, but would still work in campground hook ups. That's correct, but I sure would want to know what's causing the problem. Could lead to other personnel safety, fire, or future equipment failure issues.
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[fasteddieb]

As an aside...

1) Everything worked out this weekend hooked up to 30A service at the Hiawassee campground.

2) No one got electrocuted - yet!