Picking up our 21BHS!

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/470/thread" timestamp="1397072358" author="@charliem"][font size="3"][font face="arial"]If you opt for dual batteries including room for two cases the rack is about the same width as the two propane tanks. Almost mox-nix and affects ease of propane access and turning radius limits[/font][/font].
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Good point, though in this case it seems to be ideal.

[fasteddieb]

Got everything pretty much finalized today.

Even with the Husky mount trimmed down, I was still concerned about right turns taking it to its limits:






Don't think I needed to be, it will still turn pretty sharp without using up all the travel:





Any ideas?

[tinkeringtechie]

How long is your extension cord?

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]I'm too tired to do a rigorous analysis tonight, but I'd check the polarity wiring of the socket in the well house. I'm not sure but if it is miswired it might pop when you plug the camper in. If you don't have a handy little AC circuit tester you can use a voltmeter. You should measure approx. 120V from the hot (short blade) to both neutral (long blade) and ground; zero volts from the neutral (long blade) to ground. Of course, check the extension cord and all plugs/sockets involved.
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[fasteddieb]

I think it's a 50' extension cord, but fairly heavy duty.

I will check out the pump house wiring tomorrow. I did it myself and piggybacked off a 110v circuit that feeds our well pump. Its not inconceivable I may have wired something backwards.

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]Eddie,

One more thought. You mentioned a 120V circuit in the pump house. Most residential or rural pumps I'm familiar with run on 240V so I'll ask: is the 120V outlet connected to a true 3 wire 120V line or was it tapped onto an existing 240V line? If the latter, was it a three wire 240V line or a four wire 240V circuit? Most 240V circuits are Hot1, Hot2 and ground. The neutral is not carried through which means any 120V load will cause current to flow in the ground wire. That will cause grief for a GFCI. Just a sleepy thought. Your Camplite looks good sitting in the woods.
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[fasteddieb]

Something I'll have to check - I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous.

To the best if my recollection, my pump is 240v and there are three wires running from the house. I piggybacked onto them at the pressure controller on the tank that serves the garden. I did run a ground stake for the ground.

Later today I'll take some photos. The outlet and light for the pump house have always worked, powering all sorts of things, up to a radial saw, and I've never had the GFCI trip before.

Any problem hooking up my Honda generator to see if that faults? That would certainly narrow down the issue to the outlet in the pump house.

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]The fact that the outlet has worked in the past certainly points to proper operation. There could be a ground leakage path in the trailer, but it's hard to troubleshoot by remote control. The generator should be OK, but does it have a GFCI protected outlet? Without one you may not get much info from it. You might try turning off all 120V breakers in the trailer and seeing what happens. If all OK, try turning the main back on. If that's OK proceed one breaker at a time until you isolate the bug. Also, do you have another GFCI outlet you can plug into, even if it's further away? Without the A/C or micro running you can use a much longer and smaller extension cord for troubleshooting. Let me know.
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[fasteddieb]

Latest update...

Hooked up to Honda Generator - don't know if it has a GFCI or not, but it worked fine, and its good to see the battery charger is working (voltage shot up to 13.7 or so from around 12) and all the outlets test OK.

But ran a long extension cord up to another outlet, and again the GFCI tripped immediately.

Calling LL now for advice - will let you know what they say.

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/492/thread" timestamp="1397145631" author="@fasteddieb"]Latest update...

Hooked up to Honda Generator - don't know if it has a GFCI or not, but it worked fine, and its good to see the battery charger is working (voltage shot up to 13.7 or so from around 12) and all the outlets test OK.

But ran a long extension cord up to another outlet, and again the GFCI tripped immediately.

Calling LL now for advice - will let you know what they say.[/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Ummm. Houston ([/font][font face="arial"]Wakarusa), we have a problem.......
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[tinkeringtechie]

 I'll second Charlie's suggestion to turn off all breakers and turn them back on one by one. Seems like the most logical way to determine the source of the leak.

[fasteddieb]

Thanks - on hold with Livin'Lite...

...well, the guy in warranty is on vacation until the 15th. Suggested calling Jack at ext 120, which went to voice mail.

Will go do the circuit breaker thing right now and report back.

[fasteddieb]

All circuit breakers in the main panel off and it still trips the GFCI.

Disconnected cable entirely and doesn't, so I don't think its the cable.

My main concern is something wrong enough to charge the trailer chassis, of course, when hooked to shore power without GFCI.

Will try LL customer service again.


edited to add: Type "Travel trailer trips GFCI" into Google. Clearly a common problem with lots of reasons suggested.

[charliem]

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]If all is as you say, all breakers including the main are off, and all is OK with the extension cord plugged into the house but unplugged at the trailer, there is a problem in the trailer. Although I can't figure what it might be.
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[fasteddieb]

Quick note.

I was at Home Depot and for about $8.50 picked up a little GFCI tester.

The three lights illuminate off/yellow/yellow, which indicated correct wiring on both outlets I tried.