Let's talk about brake controllers

[leslie]

In my case, the Prodigy P3 with the standard electric brakes on the CL 21-BHS.

When I drove away from the dealer, the technician told me that he had set it up for a light trailer, and he mentioned something about 4.5. I'm thinking, OKAY... What do I know? I asked about "training" the brake controller? Taking it out to an empty road, going 25-30 mph, and checking for brake lockup. He said no - just drive and adjust it up or down, depending upon if I feel the trailer pushing my Jeep, or if I feel the trailer is stopping the Jeep.

I actually pushed the down button twice while I was driving, and I felt pretty comfortable with the braking. Since then, a couple of men have backed up the Jeep with me in it, to help me figure out what I should be doing. They were very helpful with backing up, but they decided the brake controller was not helping, and they pushed buttons repeatedly. And frantically. Now I am not happy with the braking. BTW, I read the owner's manual. I would have gotten just as much out of it if I had read the French version.

Here is what is going on now. I have played with the up and down buttons. Keeping in mind LL's owner's manual advice about needing more room to come to a stop, I start slowing and braking well before I approach a red light with a car stopped there. I am stopping sooner than I intend, like 2 car lengths away from the car, and it feels like the trailer is stopping the Jeep. Then I ease up on the brake to close the gap, and the rig goes bump - bump -bump with the feeling that the trailer is pushing the Jeep. I would prefer to make a smooth stop.

I admit I get nervous when approaching a red light with a stopped car. When there is no car there, I don't think so much, slow down and brake according to the way the rig feels. Then I can come to a smooth stop where I intend to stop.

Advice?

[nmken]

I've got my P3 set at 4.5 for my 16 TBS and for the most part and very happy with it.  I do notice that if I brake harder than usual that the trailer appears to 'push' a little as I let the brake off.  Since most of the time it works fine I havent messed with it any more.  I'd be interested to hear if you figure out how to get rid of that little push

[daplumbr]

The adjustment is important to get right to be able to safely stop in an emergency, not just regular stops. You need to have the trailer braking enough to help stop fast while not jackknifing but not so much the brakes lock up because you don't want it skidding uncontrolled behind you. If you don't understand the P3 manual, is there someplace you can take to get it adjusted properly. I disagree with those who told you to just drive and set it because it can be hard to tell if the wheels are locking up. That bumping you feel may be that?



Anyway, the instructions have you:

1. First set the brake type, electric in your case.

2. Then set the power to the trailer using the Power button. That's done without using the TV brakes, just the manual lever on the P3 and driving slowly in a big empty parking lot. It takes 2 people, one to drive and one to watch the trailer wheels for lockup.

3. After the Power is set correctly, you set the boost using the Boost button for your trailer/TV combo.

4. Then, finally road test it. Adjust the boost only if necessary (and it probably won't be).


There are other display settings, but the steps above are the main things. It took me a total of an hour, including the trip to the parking lot, but the P3 now works just right and the trailer behaves great while stopping.

[leslie]

The adjustment is important to get right to be able to safely stop in an emergency, not just regular stops. You need to have the trailer braking enough to help stop fast while not jackknifing but not so much the brakes lock up because you don't want it skidding uncontrolled behind you. If you don't understand the P3 manual, is there someplace you can take to get it adjusted properly. I disagree with those who told you to just drive and set it because it can be hard to tell if the wheels are locking up. That bumping you feel may be that?



Anyway, the instructions have you:

1. First set the brake type, electric in your case.

2. Then set the power to the trailer using the Power button. That's done without using the TV brakes, just the manual lever on the P3 and driving slowly in a big empty parking lot. It takes 2 people, one to drive and one to watch the trailer wheels for lockup.

3. After the Power is set correctly, you set the boost using the Boost button for your trailer/TV combo.

4. Then, finally road test it. Adjust the boost only if necessary (and it probably won't be).


There are other display settings, but the steps above are the main things. It took me a total of an hour, including the trip to the parking lot, but the P3 now works just right and the trailer behaves great while stopping.

Merlin, you gave me some info the owner's manual lacked. You said to set the power button using the manual control only. I didn't do it that way. The problem with the people who write owner's manuals is that they know what they are dealing with, and don't take into account people who are clueless.

When there is a break in the weather, I will follow your instructions. Until then, I am keeping busy trying to stay warm while walking my dogs, who are not enjoying this weather either.

[fasteddieb]

My local trailer guy said he used a Tekonsha Voyager, which I think is their most basic model, and said it would be find for our usage and it seems to be.

No digital display, just two knobs and a slider and some indicator lights.

Seems to work, though I think mine needs some fine tuning - the trailer feels like its neither pushing nor pulling, but the slider barely applies the trailer brakes. Will probably play with it before our next long trip.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]From the FWIW Dept:

I started with Prodigy Voyager, also at the recommendation of my dealer. The same dealer, BTW, that installed the E2 WDH brackets upside down and loose. The Voyager was a real PITA, always needing a tweak and never really working. My wife finally convinced me to upgrade to the P3. What a night and day difference. Easy to install, self leveling, easy to set up, and a constant display of what's going on. Don't leave home without it  .
[/font]

[spot1]

Use a Tekonsha PowerTrac costing $43.

As per E-Trailer site: "Powertrac applies your trailer's brakes when the brake pedal in your tow vehicle is engaged. The trailer brakes will be activated with an intensity set by you. This output (amount of braking power) is adjustable to suit your preference, as well as road conditions, type of trailer and load. You can also apply the brakes manually with the integrated override".

I put the vehicle in drive on level ground and lightly press the brake pedal until TV brake light/trailer brake controller led lights are activated. Then adjust the trailer brake application force.

Used E-trailer's plug & play harness that plugs directly into the PowerTrac harness & existing Nissan harness on the steering column. Also installed Nissan's plug & play 7 pin plug & harness and OEM hitch. I like these new vehicles with plug & play harnesses. Current Frontys come with automatic tranny coolers.

http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/39523.html

[david]

I have used simple on/off brake controllers like the Powertrac mentioned above as well as the proportional P3 controller. The P3 is much superior.

It uses a solid state accelerometer to detect the initial deceleration of the rig when you first step on the brakes. It then applies current to the trailer's brake magnets in proportion to the deceleration that it senses. The maximum current is adjustable.

It gives a unique feeling. You can feel it engage the trailer's brake a fraction of a second after you step on the brakes and more as you step harder on the brake. If it is set up right it is quite smooth. I set it at about 75% of locking up the trailer brakes on hard pavement. With the TV capable of 100% of lock up and the trailer at 75%, given the relative weights of the two in my case, I can stop at about 90% in a panic stop.

The on/off type only has one current setting- too much for light braking like slowing down at a stop light but not enough for an all out emergency stop. I set the trailer to about 50% so the maximum panic stop is about 80%.

Go with the Prodigy P3.

David

[spot1]

When I move up to a larger TT probably will go with a P3. Current TT ready to camp weight @ 1950lbs.

[charliem]

[quote timestamp="1416414129" author="@david" source="/post/5187/thread"]I have used simple on/off brake controllers like the Powertrac mentioned above as well as the proportional P3 controller. The P3 is much superior.

It uses a solid state accelerometer to detect the initial deceleration of the rig when you first step on the brakes. It then applies current to the trailer's brake magnets in proportion to the deceleration that it senses. The maximum current is adjustable.

It gives a unique feeling. You can feel it engage the trailer's brake a fraction of a second after you step on the brakes and more as you step harder on the brake. If it is set up right it is quite smooth. I set it at about 75% of locking up the trailer brakes on hard pavement. With the TV capable of 100% of lock up and the trailer at 75%, given the relative weights of the two in my case, I can stop at about 90% in a panic stop.

The on/off type only has one current setting- too much for light braking like slowing down at a stop light but not enough for an all out emergency stop. I set the trailer to about 50% so the maximum panic stop is about 80%.

Go with the Prodigy P3.

David[/quote][font size="3"]X2. Absolutely concur. And with the P3 display you can see all of this happening. Go safe, not cheap.
[/font]

[spot1]

Thanks! You guys talked me into it!

Will buy a P3!

http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html

[leslie]

[font size="3"]From the FWIW Dept:

I started with Prodigy Voyager, also at the recommendation of my dealer. The same dealer, BTW, that installed the E2 WDH brackets upside down and loose. The Voyager was a real PITA, always needing a tweak and never really working. My wife finally convinced me to upgrade to the P3. What a night and day difference. Easy to install, self leveling, easy to set up, and a constant display of what's going on. Don't leave home without it  .
[/font]

Moral of this story: Always listen to your wife!

[timeout]

[quote source="/post/5177/thread" timestamp="1416402817" author="@fasteddieb"]My local trailer guy said he used a Kenosha Voyager, which I think is their most basic model, and said it would be find for our usage and it seems to be.

No digital display, just two knobs and a slider and some indicator lights.

Seems to work, though I think mine needs some fine tuning - the trailer feels like its neither pushing nor pulling, but the slider barely applies the trailer brakes. Will probably play with it before our next long trip.[/quote]Sorry fasteddie  - It's Tekonsha - as in Tekonsha, Michigan  not Kenosha......

But, your trailer guy is right.  Nothing wrong with the Voyager. In our past life, we were a Tekonsha brake control wholesale distributor.  At that time, the Voyager was the current and best model they produced.  Needless to say we had one.  It saw use in several trucks over the years and many miles of towing without a problem.
 We let it go with a truck because the one we traded for had a factory control.  Traded that truck for our present Tacoma, and of course needed a brake control.  Choose the Tekonsha Primus IQ model. The operation is similar to the Voyager, but has a digital readout, proportional braking, and is self-leveling. If we still had a Voyager, I would use it, but since I had to buy one I choose the Primus IQ for the additional features and still simple set-up and use and less cost than the P3.

[gnies]

I have a Prodigy P2 and it is a really good proportional brake controller

[fasteddieb]

[quote source="/post/5177/thread" timestamp="1416402817" author="@fasteddieb"]

Sorry fasteddie  - It's Tekonsha - as in Tekonsha, Michigan  not Kenosha......





I just caught that on a re-read.

Mature Onset Dyslexia![/quote]