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Let's talk about brake controllers

Started by leslie, November 14, 2014, 08:02:16 PM

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leslie

Quote from: @sandroad" source="/post/5095/thread" timestamp="1416014529The adjustment is important to get right to be able to safely stop in an emergency, not just regular stops. You need to have the trailer braking enough to help stop fast while not jackknifing but not so much the brakes lock up because you don't want it skidding uncontrolled behind you. If you don't understand the P3 manual, is there someplace you can take to get it adjusted properly. I disagree with those who told you to just drive and set it because it can be hard to tell if the wheels are locking up. That bumping you feel may be that?



Anyway, the instructions have you:

1. First set the brake type, electric in your case.

2. Then set the power to the trailer using the Power button. That's done without using the TV brakes, just the manual lever on the P3 and driving slowly in a big empty parking lot. It takes 2 people, one to drive and one to watch the trailer wheels for lockup.

3. After the Power is set correctly, you set the boost using the Boost button for your trailer/TV combo.

4. Then, finally road test it. Adjust the boost only if necessary (and it probably won't be).


There are other display settings, but the steps above are the main things. It took me a total of an hour, including the trip to the parking lot, but the P3 now works just right and the trailer behaves great while stopping.



Merlin, you helped me SOOOO much! Thank you, thank you, thank you! Kiss, kiss, kiss. (Don't tell my husband!)

You provided me with instructions that were not in the owner's manual. The brake controller is working just the way I want it to. Braking is smooth as silk. I have it set at 4.7, Boost on 1.

Towing my Camplite is so much nicer now. I might even get to where I glance at the passing scenery every now and then, instead of completely focusing on the traffic and road in front, and who might be preparing to pass me from the rear.

I also have to thank charliem for helping me decide to get the P3 and the Equalizer WDH with anti-sway. The trailer was rock-solid for my first long-distance tow. No sway, smooth braking... Towing is no longer a white-knuckle experience.
Located in Kentucky and Florida at present

leslie

Quote from: @nmken" source="/post/5094/thread" timestamp="1416012775I've got my P3 set at 4.5 for my 16 TBS and for the most part and very happy with it.  I do notice that if I brake harder than usual that the trailer appears to 'push' a little as I let the brake off.  Since most of the time it works fine I havent messed with it any more.  I'd be interested to hear if you figure out how to get rid of that little push



Nmken, the problem I had with my brake controller was caused by several people changing the setting while they were backing up my trailer using my Jeep. I followed merlin's advice on the setup. I discovered that it was set at 10.4, which is way too much. Now I have it set at 4.7, which is perfect. No more push or bump-bump-bump when I brake.
Located in Kentucky and Florida at present

charliem

[quote source="/post/5599/thread" timestamp="1419001283" author="@leslie"]
I also have to thank charliem for helping me decide to get the P3 and the Equalizer WDH with anti-sway. The trailer was rock-solid for my first long-distance tow. No sway, smooth braking... Towing is no longer a white-knuckle experience.[/quote][font size="3"]Leslie,

Now that you have the P3 and WDH set up keep an eye on the coupler for bending [a href="http://livinlite.proboards.com/thread/606/bent-coupler-on-21rbs?page=3&scrollTo=5446"]http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/606/bent-coupler-on-21rbs?page=3&scrollTo=5446[/a].  You may have one more mod in your future.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

leslie

Quote from: @charliem" source="/post/5608/thread" timestamp="1419008988[quote source="/post/5599/thread" timestamp="1419001283" author="@leslie"]I also have to thank charliem for helping me decide to get the P3 and the Equalizer WDH with anti-sway. The trailer was rock-solid for my first long-distance tow. No sway, smooth braking... Towing is no longer a white-knuckle experience.
[font size="3"]Leslie,

Now that you have the P3 and WDH set up keep an eye on the coupler for bending [a href="http://livinlite.proboards.com/thread/606/bent-coupler-on-21rbs?page=3&scrollTo=5446"]http://livinlite.proboards.com/thread/606/bent-coupler-on-21rbs?page=3&scrollTo=5446[/a].  You may have one more mod in your future.
[/font][/quote]


I am taking a look at that coupler every time I hitch and unhitch. No problem so far.
Located in Kentucky and Florida at present

daplumbr

Glad I could help. That P3 stuff was fresh in my mind because I had recently adjusted mine.  I've removed it from my TV for the winter so I'll probably have to reset it this spring. I'll also be installing the Andersen WDH I bought to reduce sway and bounce. 

cadman70454

I set up an appointment to have a brake controller installed on my 2009 Silverado next week.  The guy told me they would install the Prodigy P2 controller.  After reading here about controllers, I'm thinking of calling to have him switch to the P3?  What is the difference in the 2 controllers?

charliem

[font size="3"]The operational difference is in the display and ease of operation. The digital display on the P3 shows more of what's going on. I suspect it's easier to set up, but I don't have any first hand experience with the P2. The cost difference is $10-$20 on Amazon depending on which listing and the phase of the moon over the warehouse. You will need the same vehicle specific adapter cable with either. For me, given the insignificant cost difference, the choice was obvious. Mine works perfectly and I always know exactly what it's doing.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

peislander

[quote source="/post/10387/thread" timestamp="1430858644" author="@cadman70454"]I set up an appointment to have a brake controller installed on my 2009 Silverado next week.  The guy told me they would install the Prodigy P2 controller.  After reading here about controllers, I'm thinking of calling to have him switch to the P3?  What is the difference in the 2 controllers?[/quote]Apparently lots of people ask about the difference so etrailer.com has a FAQ about that very question: [a href="https://www.etrailer.com/question-13246.html"]https://www.etrailer.com/question-13246.html[/a]

I have P3 and like it. I haven't used others so I can't really compare. The P3 works. I do wish the installer (Speedy Glass) would have tucked it a little further under the dash. My shins often clip it (ouch!) getting in and out of the Jeep.

charliem

[font size="3"]PEIslander,

Good find on the link. Not much info there, but seems to lean towards the P3. Probably either would be satisfactory, but for the small price delta, why not go P3? There are some dimensional differences that might be critical in tight installations. Like you, I like my P3 but have no hands on with the P2. I did have a Tekonsha Voyager on my dealer's recommendation and it was terrible.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

mitch

I have a P2 and it works fine.  The display basically shows connected, not connected and amount of power going to the trailer brakes when the brake pedal is pushed. The only time I ever look it is when I'm starting a trip to make sure it's connected and when I do adjust the power.  It would be hazardous to pay any attention to it while driving other then to quickly check for voltage number while braking and that only if you thought something was wrong. In my mind this is one of those cases where a display is relatively unimportant.  That being said, if the P3 has a performance advantage by all means spend the extra few dollars.
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

charliem

[font size="3"]After exploring more on the Etrailer site I deduce the P2 error and status messages are presented as codes. I had this with the Voyager and you had to get the book out to decode the codes. This is because they try to display codes with the limited seven segment numeric display. The P3 displays in English. So the performance is probably similar, but the P3 will be easier to understand. Of course you will learn the most common presentations on the P2 with time, but my memory is already full of other stuff and getting older. The functional price you pay with the P3 is menu hierarchy, but I can get used to that. For the few extra bucks I vote for easier display. Your choice.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

hogtyd

I have the [a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90250-Prodigy-Electronic-Control/dp/B001P0ZA86"]Tekonsha Prodigy RF[/a] wireless brake controller.  I've only towed with it a few times (~2500 miles total) but so far I really like it.  My only previous experience with towing trailers with brakes was a boat trailer (with 7,000 lb. boat), and that had the "delayed reaction" surge brakes. In comparison, the very smooth and predictable proportional braking control has been great, and having the ability to clip the control unit wherever I want it in the cab is a nice feature.  

Graham

gnies

I have the P2, it wasn't my choice my Ford dealership took care of getting it installed before the car was delivered to me, they brought it to a RV dealer to be installed but I had specifically said I wanted a proportional brake controller and not a time delay one. I really like it, it works well for me

pinstriper

[quote source="/post/10404/thread" timestamp="1430911233" author="@graham"]I have the [a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90250-Prodigy-Electronic-Control/dp/B001P0ZA86"]Tekonsha Prodigy RF[/a] wireless brake controller.  I've only towed with it a few times (~2500 miles total) but so far I really like it.  My only previous experience with towing trailers with brakes was a boat trailer (with 7,000 lb. boat), and that had the "delayed reaction" surge brakes. In comparison, the very smooth and predictable proportional braking control has been great, and having the ability to clip the control unit wherever I want it in the cab is a nice feature.  

Graham[/quote][p]We have that as well. One thing we learned was not to put it down in the console next to a cell phone. It will lose pairing with the receiver.[/p][p]
[/p]
Let's eat, Grandma !
Let's eat Grandma !
Punctuation. It saves lives.

2014 14DBS
2013 4Runner | 2006 F-150 5.4 V8 (ruh ruh ruh)
2015 Hobie Outback

hogtyd

[quote source="/post/10413/thread" timestamp="1430919551" author="@pinstriper"][quote source="/post/10404/thread" timestamp="1430911233" author="@graham"]I have the [a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90250-Prodigy-Electronic-Control/dp/B001P0ZA86"]Tekonsha Prodigy RF[/a] wireless brake controller.  I've only towed with it a few times (~2500 miles total) but so far I really like it.  My only previous experience with towing trailers with brakes was a boat trailer (with 7,000 lb. boat), and that had the "delayed reaction" surge brakes. In comparison, the very smooth and predictable proportional braking control has been great, and having the ability to clip the control unit wherever I want it in the cab is a nice feature.  

Graham[/quote][p]We have that as well. One thing we learned was not to put it down in the console next to a cell phone. It will lose pairing with the receiver.[/p][p]
[/p][/quote]
That's interesting and good to know! It probably also explains a brief "NC" blip I saw on my last trip...after 2,000 miles with zero issues, I was pulling up to my house when I saw "NC" for a few seconds.  At that point I thought maybe I was just seeing things, but in hindsight I am pretty sure that I moved my cell phone to the console with the controller as I was preparing to get out of the truck.