Rear deck mods

[lora]

What modifications are people doing to carry bikes or strap down coolers,rubbermaids, etc.

[quicksilverbill]

We attached 4 L brackets to the rear deck, each placed so that the brackets fit within the ridges of a quite large, 53 gal Contico plastic bin (here's a link to it at Lowes:  http://www.lowes.com/pd_91573-230-L3725-4_0__?productId=3734569&Ntt=contico&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcontico&facetInfo= ). The bin fits pretty tightly inside the L brackets and when we tie it down with two straps, it is absolutely stable. The bin is so large that it holds everything we need that doesn't fit for travel inside our QS6. It "lives" on the rear deck and provides good waterproof storage at the campsite after we've deployed its contents for their camping purposes.

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[quicksilverbill]

Incidentally, I meant to add that, because the L brackets keep the bin in place, we simply pass the tie down straps around the underside of the rear deck and over the top of the bin. No D rings or other attachments required.

[subaruwx]

I installed Aluminum S tracks along the 4 edges, and bought  several S track tie down stud rings. I can move these around easily to strap down stuff.  Usually, I put 2 large storage bins back there but I've also stapled the kids bikes there once. I'll try to upload pictures.

[subaruwx]

Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

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[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That looks awesome. They should come from the factory like that.

[ma]

I wish I would of gotten the rear deck

[pastorrandy]

[quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That is exactly what I want to do on the rear deck on my 6.0.   Do you mind if I ask a few questions?

1. Where did you purchase your tracks and what sizes?
2. What hardware did you use to fasten the track to the deck?
3. Was it difficult to clear electrical wires running through the aluminum tubes?

Thanks,
John

[admin]

I wish I would of gotten the rear deck

I dont have a rear deck either, but I was thinking about adding a 2" receiver to the bumper which would allow for a rack at least. Problem is I'm not sure how much weight and torque the rear bumper can withstand. On the relatively thin 2" wide aluminum bumper I would imagine even 50 pounds about two feet out could generate a lot of force when bouncing up and down on the highway.

I was then thinking about to possibility of having the bumper reinforced with another 2" section tied into the frame rails. I think that would add plenty of strength but I dont know what kind of cost that would add.

Something like this would easily add the 2" receiver to the 2" bumper: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C6TZCM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2VW77N4QAH029&coliid=I1YQCUEO8XYLED
Or something like this would be great if it had 4" of material: http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-19100-Travel-Trailer/dp/B0007M1ZGE/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=187FZFNP1Q21GH7ANKHT
With the receiver it would be easy to then add a rack like this: http://www.amazon.com/TMS-ALUM-CCR-2260A-60-Inch-Generator-Aluminum/dp/B0049J3SK2/ref=pd_sim_auto_59?ie=UTF8&refRID=14FRXMBD0KQ9QDZXQAGZ

But by that point your already talking in the area of $150 not including any work to have the 2" bumper reinforced.

I've also heard that with aluminum being rather soft and reactive it could create problems when using bolt on products. I'm not sure how much of that is just hear-say, but the last thing I want is to have a rack full of my stuff go flying off while heading down the road simply because the bumper was too weak to begin with.


-Sean

[stevesanders]

I added two strips of L-Track. One on top of the bumper and one as close as possible to the body of the camper. It's the aluminum track that is used to mount airline seats. The surface mount version that I used has 45 degree beveled edges and you can attach a tie-down ring anywhere at about 1 inch intervals. With that and ratchet straps, I can securely attach about anything that I want to.

At this point, I've got an aluminum tool box that I got at Tractor Supply attached to the rear deck.

[subaruwx]

[quote source="/post/2465/thread" timestamp="1407870025" author="@qs6"][quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That is exactly what I want to do on the rear deck on my 6.0.   Do you mind if I ask a few questions?

1. Where did you purchase your tracks and what sizes?
2. What hardware did you use to fasten the track to the deck?
3. Was it difficult to clear electrical wires running through the aluminum tubes?

Thanks,
John[/quote]


The S track and anchors are a slick, convenient, and expensive solution. I got the S track and anchors from Amazon. The exact silver pieces I ordered don't appear to be available anymore, but this is the same stuff from the same vendor at Amazon:
ALUMINUM S TRACK KIT BLACK
http://amzn.com/B008TU6DQI

They might have the kit in Silver as well.

I bought 12 anchors and 4 count of the 48in S tracks - total cost was ~ $150.

I used a hack saw to cut the pieces to fit on the sides, and my Dremel to smooth the edges. I used stainless steel screws to attach the strips to the rear deck, which I carefully pre-drilled. The aluminum is soft, so you want to just drill deep enough for the screws to catch.  Then I used a bore bit to make a wedge opening in the S track so the screws would sit flush.

I didn't even try to clear any electrical wire - I just made sure to keep my attaching screws away from the tail lights.  If I can figure out how, I'll copy the other figures from the old Yahoo site.

[subaruwx]

Found my old photos and notes. I used 3 6ft lengths, not 4ft lengths as I stated above. I mounted one 6ft length on top at the end, one cut to fit against the diamond plating between the bunk support brackets, and 2 short ones along the side. The side mounts are not on the top, but along the side. I thought it looked cleaner.

The brackets for the bunk supports prevent the track from running the full length. The aluminum decking is pretty thin, so I mounted the track against the diamond plating so I knew it would screw into the thicker aluminum framing.

[pastorrandy]

Thanks subaruwx for all the details.   Let me jump on Amazon.com and see what I can find.

Do you remember what type of stainless steel screws you used?   Were they self tapping?  How long?  What diameter?

Thanks again.
John

[subaruwx]

I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal.

[lora]

I ended up installing D-Rings.  Worked great for carrying 2 rubbermaids and our cooler.  So glad I got the bumper extension, was very useful for storing extra stuff like the carrying cases for grill and canopy.  Also was a nice dry spot for our wood.