Internal Surge Protector

[tinkeringtechie]

I installed the Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 in my 21BHS this weekend. I managed to fit it behind the converter on the underside of the fridge:

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That was about the only location I could reach that had enough room to fit the unit. The floor space is occupied by a few large grommets and grounding busses:

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It's also occupied by spare zip ties, loose screws, a couple chunks of loose foam, a foot of unused wire loom, half a dozen cut off wire connectors, and the serial number sticker for something (maybe the converter iself?). It's a tight space, so I can't exactly blame them for not digging around for everything they dropped, but I pulled out everything that I could reach. It was so tight that I couldn't hold the unit and drive screws at the same time. I actually drilled and tapped two holes and then hand started them:

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The gray material is a heavy duty double stick foam tape that I used to help dampen any hum. You can hear it if you put your head right next to the converter, but otherwise you'd never know it's there. This was definitely not a normal DIY upgrade, so I wouldn't recommend it unless you've done something like this before.

Progressive Industries sells a version with a remote display, but the display itself is primitive and ugly. So I bought the EMS without the remote display to save some money with the goal of adding my own display. My unit has an internal display that shows through the window... but you may have noticed it's missing in my picture. It turns out that the internal circuitry for both units is identical, but mine is just missing the connector. I soldered on the appropriate connector and then cut a hole through the enclosure. I reverse engineered their protocol and am developing my own display to show the information (and more). Important note: the unit only functions this way if you leave out the internal display. Once you connect the internal display, it does not send any information through the external connector (those pins are used in the internal display instead).

[djsamuel]

Wanted to resurrect this thread to see how you like the surge protector. I'm thinking about getting one.

Doug

[tinkeringtechie]

So far it's been flawless. You wouldn't even know it's there except the short delay when you connect.

[funpilot]

I think there has to be some rule that posters who have strong electrical talents need to also offer on-site pro-bono services...

[cl21bhs]

I have the Progressive portable model and it works great.

[furpod]

We have the unit with the remote display. Just out of curiosity, what other info do you have yours display?

[djsamuel]

Just installed the Progressive model EMSHW30C (with the remote display).  That was certainly NOT an enjoyable job, especially when done in the Florida sun on a warm day (with no electricity in the camper).  There isn't much room to work, that's for sure.  However, after a lot of sweating, the job is done and the unit is working well.  Finished just in time for our trip to the Grand Canyon this week.

Thanks to Tinkeringtechie for the pictures that were posted.  Gave me a great idea what to expect before I started.

Doug

[runningwriter]

+1 on the                    EMS-LCHW30          

I set the delay to the two minute value.  My rooftop ac does not have a built-in delay after a power outage.  I recommend that anyone installing the unit be sure to check which delay is needed.  If unsure, set it for two minutes and you cannot go wrong.

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/4213/thread" timestamp="1413041892" author="@dave"]+1 on the                    EMS-LCHW30          

I set the delay to the two minute value.  My rooftop ac does not have a built-in delay after a power outage.  I recommend that anyone installing the unit be sure to check which delay is needed.  If unsure, set it for two minutes and you cannot go wrong.[/quote]Good point. I assumed that my A/C unit had a built-in delay (we're in the 21st century after all), but alas it does not. I ended up having to pull the delay jumper after installation which is about 1000x as difficult as pulling it before installation.

[runningwriter]

A tech at Progressive tipped me off regarding that jumper.  He said to rest it on just one of the pins, such that it completes no circuit.  That way, it sits in here just in case you ever need to change that delay back.  Don't know how often that happens, but I'm prepared 8-).

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/4238/thread" timestamp="1413242415" author="@dave"]A tech at Progressive tipped me off regarding that jumper.  He said to rest it on just one of the pins, such that it completes no circuit.  That way, it sits in here just in case you ever need to change that delay back.  Don't know how often that happens, but I'm prepared 8-).[/quote]That wouldn't be a bad idea, but I can't imagine I'll ever need to change it back while on the road. If I ever upgrade the A/C to one that has a delay it's not much effort for me to go in my jumper drawer and grab one.

[daplumbr]

The fact that you have a jumper drawer tells me a lot about you (and it's all good). I just received my EMS-LCHW30 and will be installing it, the remote, a digital readout for the house batteries, and dual house batteries as soon as possible. I'm having trouble finding a dual battery box that fits in the space between the propane tank and the camper, but I've not given up yet. 

[jtelles3993]

I'm thinking of ordering this same protector. Either that or take a chance on the portable unit secured with a good bicycle lock?

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/7648/thread" author="@surfsup" timestamp="1426028281"]I'm thinking of ordering this same protector. Either that or take a chance on the portable unit secured with a good bicycle lock?[/quote]They're both good units. Really depends on your priorities. In my case I went for the permanent version because I wanted to simplify my setup time and save storage space.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]The threat of theft of the portable unit is really not that bad. Most, but not all, campground power boxes can accommodate a padlock. I store a padlock around the short cable of the protector. When I set up I plug the protector into the power box, close the box, and lock it with the padlock. I also carry three 30A extensions cords for times when the box is far away, such as in Canada. If the CG power box locking tabs are gone or damaged I simply add extensions until I can get the surge protector close enough to the trailer so I can lock it to the trailer. This is easy using the safety chains or a bicycle security cable. Lots of options. One caution: the human tendency is to get a giant lock. Check a few CG power boxes before buying your lock. Most boxes have a limit on how big a hasp they will accommodate.

I like having easy visual  access to the current meter on the protector. I can tell when the electric WH is on or how close to the 30A limit I'm getting. It also tells you if the power box is wired correctly and if an over/under voltage fault has occurred. All these functions are also available on the fixed mounted unit, but you have to have the remote panel.

However, there is one disadvantage to the portable protector: that of forgetting to retrieve it before leaving. I have come very close to leaving my expensive surge protector securely locked to the CG power box. But then, I'm also the guy who forgot to lock the kitchen window before hitting the highway  . Education is always expensive.
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