Archive - Aluminium Camper Forum

We camped at Cranberry Lake many times when our kids were young (We took a lightning strike there-burned my wife and I slightly and put a burn mark on the tent-the kids were unscathed).  We tented since we didn't have a camper then.  It's a beautiful spot, like most of the Adirondack lakes campgrounds.  There are lots of hiking trails out of the campground.  We used to haul a 14 ft outboard boat and that really increased our options there.  I know canoe rentals are available there.  You'll pass close to other nice state sites on your way there, like Harris Lake in Newcomb and Long Lake, Saranac Lake, Tupper Lake and others, depending on your route.  Our 4th of July is currently booked up, but we would enjoy a meet  up some time.  We do a bunch of island camping on the state islands in Lake George during the summer also.  Great if you have a boat--also through ReserveAmerica. What's involved in organizing an Adirondack meet up?  Maybe good for fall or next summer.   

Quote from: @david" source="/post/18466/thread" timestamp="1454846266We live in NW Connecticut and camped at Lake George north of Hague and a USFS campground near Ticonderoga last year. We definitely want to try the area west of there, near Lake Placid and Saranac Lake. I camped there a hundred years ago and our site overlooked a beautiful lake. Would like to see that area again.

So, count me in.

gawin: You know about the meetup at Acadia NP, July 4th weekend?

David

Hi David..I was just browsing and saw your post.  We live in Putnam, NY, just south of Ticonderoga.  Our town is actually bordered by both Lake George and Lake Champlain. There is lots of wonderful camping here.  I suspect your stayed at Roger's Rock State Campgound on Lake George (no USFS sties around here), about 6 miles south of Ti (local name) on Rt 9N.  It's a great place with access to Lake George and lots of hiking.  About that same distance going west of Ti on Rt 74, you go up in the mountains to Putnam Pond State Campground and access to the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness area.  Putnam Pond is a great campground with beach, water sites and some boat/canoe only access sites.  About 10 miles further west on Rt. 74 you come to Paradox Lake State campground. Not in wilderness, but great for some lake fun.  Now you're just a few miles from Schroon Lake, NY, where the state runs 2 campgrounds at Scaroon Manor and Eagle Point.  No hookups at any of these, but all have dump stations and they're all great spots to visit.  Since we border Vermont, we like to take our camper over there.  There are many beautiful small campgrounds within a short 1-2 hour drive from here. NY campgrounds are handled through ReserveAmerica and VT. has their own reservation system.  Here's a link to NYS DEC campgrounds:  http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7825.html             Hank

Sorry, I haven't been on for quite a while.  I solved my sporadic furnace problem (won't start unless I juggle, push/pull on thermostat) by installing a Honeywell 2 wire thermostat with an off position.  I bought it at my local hardware store and the furnace has never failed to start again.  Also, I always do the same propane purge procedure outlined by David, above.  Lighting the stove first gets most of the air out of the system and gets the propane real close the the refridgerator on my 13RDB, helping me get the fridge going in 2-3 tries.  The furnace always starts on the first try, then, as I think it has about a 45 second time out which isn't reached.  Jim

[font face="arial" size="3"]I don't believe I have a fan on my RDB 13, but I wonder if it would help improve efficiency??  Thanks for the post.  I forgot to ask--is it 12 or 110 volt?/ Is it used with any of the 3 power sources?[/font]

My trailer is a 2011.  I bought it used last year.  It came with the propane hot water heater bypass under the trailer at the heater--these are metal ball type valves. I also have a low point drains-both hot and cold--under the outdoor shower connections.  They are just about 2"long hoses, then the plastic valves.  I'm assuming that these valves have all been under there for a few years and my trailer was well traveled when we got it.  There are no obvious problems with the condition of the valves from road wear/grime, etc.

[font face="comic sans ms"]I live in the woods in the Adirondacks.  I store my trailer outside on the ground with the wheels on wooden boards and trailer leveled.  I put a plastic tarp over the top and down almost to the windows, being careful not to let any ropes or edges of tarp be able to rub and scrape on windows.  This worked fine last year in a cold wet winter--no critters got in my trailer.  It really is quite impervious, being all aluminum.  A mouse would have to eat a hose off and then get up in through the hole--unlikely, I think.[/font]

tbones is right.  No need for another breech in the bottom.  First put a valve on each line going into and out of water heater (under trailer), then before those valves, put a T in each line and connect them together with a 3rd valve in the middle==Viola- a bypass and heater isolation.  Turn off each heater valve and open the bypass valve, pump in antifreeze from water pump.  Reverse all three valve settings when summerizing.  Also, when removing hose from water pump be sure that it's the hose from the tank, attach siphon hose onto pump here and pump in antifreeze until good pink flow at each faucet-let some run down the drain to protect trap.  I plan to get the a fore mentioned bypass kit or make on myself so that removing the tank inlet hose each to add antifreeze is easier.

My 2011 13rdb has the seat that raises up to access the water pump.  That compartment also houses the furnace and power center.  I recently removed the water line from the tank and put a siphon hose on the pump and ran it into a gallon jug of rv antifreeze, ran the pump and filled all the lines--it took a little over 1 1/2 gallons. (NOTE: FIRST, be sure to bypass water heater using valves under the camper) For the water heater, use the outside access panel, pull the relief valve and then remove the anode tube--if you have a propane heater.  If it's electric, I don't know anything about it.  Why would Livin'Lite change things that work??

Thanks for the tips.  The elevation from my home in the Adirondacks is just about the same as where we were in VT.  A Roadtrekker friend suggested that my popane pressure may be low, but that doesn't explain the shore power/battery discrepancy.  I'll let you know what I find out when I solve the problem.

We have a 2011 13RDB which we bought used in 2013.   On a recent trip to the Green Mtns in VT., I had trouble getting the furnace to light.  I tried it at home while on shore power and it fired right up, although I did have to jiggle the thermostat to get the furnace to come on.  That night in VT, at 34 degrees, I tried the furnace.  No go.  The next day I took the cover off the thermostat and found that the contact which is held off by the on/off switch, wasn't making good contact with it's circuit.  I was able to push it in by hand (finger) and the furnace blower started but furnace didn't light.  After a few tries it did light and ran well.  Later that night I tried all my tricks and the furnace would not light, time after time, although blower came on, but timed out.  Same thing on the next day and one following.  Upon arrival home, I plugged back in to shore power and tried furnace using my finger trick....It lit and ran fine.  I'll replace the thermostat, but why would it not light on battery 12 volts but light when hooked to shore power??--same 12 volts in my mind.  Any suggestions appreciated.  We have a new 12 volt deep cycle battery.  Thanks. 

I also have a 2011 13RDB which started doing this yesterday--only 1 window lock.  After I played with it a little, I got it to turn, then I worked it back and forth after the window was open and it seems to be ok.  I want to try some silicone lube, but not sure if it will help or hinder.  I wonder if it will react with the plastic in a negative way.  Let's see what people suggest.  Thanks, Jim