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How to access the water pump and water heater on a 13 RDB?

Started by calimobber, October 27, 2014, 01:20:37 AM

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supersuit

My trailer is a 2011.  I bought it used last year.  It came with the propane hot water heater bypass under the trailer at the heater--these are metal ball type valves. I also have a low point drains-both hot and cold--under the outdoor shower connections.  They are just about 2"long hoses, then the plastic valves.  I'm assuming that these valves have all been under there for a few years and my trailer was well traveled when we got it.  There are no obvious problems with the condition of the valves from road wear/grime, etc.

runningwriter

My 2011 13QBB and the op's 2012 has no bipass at the water heater.  When did LL start putting them in?  Haven't other manufacturers been doing this for years?

mitch

My 13 QBB which was built in the Feb/Mar time frame of 2013 came with one.  I assume it was standard because I didn't ask for it.  
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

sam

Quote from: @mojospeople" timestamp="1414383637" source="/post/4446/threadHello, we are new owners of a 2012 13RDB (no tip-out) and I'm trying to figure out how to access the water pump and water heater so that we can winterize. I can't find anything in the owner's manual and I've looked high and low in the trailer and can't figure it out.  The water pump is under one dinette seat and the water heater is under our jackknife sofa.                                

Does anyone know? Thanks in advance!

Mojo's Mom.
I have. 2013 used 13qbb. I had a similar problem. I solved it by negotiating the sale to include winterizing the camper while I watched. Alternatively I recommend emailing Camplite.  The lack of a hot water bypass seems really odd. I have found them very helpful.  

Regarding the the screw heads: Dewalt sells a nice little box that includes several square bits and a quick change holder. 

I had had to replace my water pump, which was under the jack knife sofa. Camplite provided advice. I had to take the sofa off, and there were a lot of screws in hard to reach places. I recommend an offset drill attachment made by Milwaukee. Works on a drill or by hand. There was an access panel next to the electrical box, but the pump was to the right of it so I had to take the sofa off. When I replaced the pump I moved it to the front of the door. I will add an antifreeze bypass (Campco) later. Camplite is getting better at putting things where they can be reached, but they are not quite there yet. 

This year I have decided to take a different approach. I bought a small compressor and blew the lines out. I did put antifreeze in the traps. It should work.  We will see.  (You will still need the bypass and you will need to remove the heater plug. 

Regarding all the steps involved: There are a lot of very complete list and videos. 

I hope this is of some help.