Boondocking power options

[charliem]

[font size="3"]FYI, there is a thing called a GC12. It's a 12 volt true deep cycle battery for golf carts. It's available at Batteries Plus Bulbs for $199. Weighs ~90# and 150AH. Similar in price and capability to the Trojan T-1275. More expensive than a pair of ubiquitous GC2s, but might work where weight/size are concerns.
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[philip47]

[quote timestamp="1459732004" author="@charliem" source="/post/20166/thread"][font size="3"]FYI, there is a thing called a GC12. It's a 12 volt true deep cycle battery for golf carts. It's available at Batteries Plus Bulbs for $199. Weighs ~90# and 150AH. Similar in price and capability to the Trojan T-1275. More expensive than a pair of ubiquitous GC2s, but might work where weight/size are concerns.
[/font][/quote]Check out the Trojan t-605 they have 210 ah and cost up here in Mi $85 plus core the t-105 is 225ah for about $125 plus core. The t-125 was around $150 and 240 ah plus core you need two ran in series for the 12volt you'll need.

[whoofit]

I just completed installation of a 180W 34V solar panel on the roof. Spans four rafters and is 4-Way tilt adjustable. It supplies near 15A when the load is there on a sunny day. 6A when overcast. This is our boondock power source. Utah bound on the 23rd.

[mitch]

Why 34 volt?

[whoofit]

Allows me to run smaller gauge wire from the panel to the controller, then, mount the charge controller closer to the GC2's. Less lossy.

[daplumbr]

[quote timestamp="1459863613" source="/post/20212/thread" author="@whoofit"]I just completed installation of a 180W 34V solar panel on the roof. Spans four rafters and is 4-Way tilt adjustable. It supplies near 15A when the load is there on a sunny day. 6A when overcast. This is our boondock power source. Utah bound on the 23rd.

[/quote]I'd like to do this too. What brand/model of panel? Did you make the tilt mount, or is it built-in? I have a Morningstar MPPT 15A controller that would be perfect for that panel. 

[whoofit]

I found a great deal on a few branded NESL. Too good to pass up. Not where I bought them but they are new and the specs are found here: http://www.posharp.com/dj-180d-solar-panel-from-changzhou-nesl-solartech-co-ltd_p6392093d.aspx I figure risk it as I have several replacements now and the bracketing I mounted to the roof is versatile enough for most any sized panel if need be.

The tilt mech is all aluminum extrusion and stainless components. Basically eight SS hinges and an AL frame. I am using the Rogue MPPT-3024 that has much excess capacity.

[mitch]

[quote source="/post/20216/thread" timestamp="1459864712" author="@whoofit"]Allows me to run smaller gauge wire from the panel to the controller, then, mount the charge controller closer to the GC2's. Less lossy.[/quote]Makes sense, thanks

[whoofit]

[quote timestamp="1459866698" author="@mitch" source="/post/20223/thread"][quote source="/post/20216/thread" author="@whoofit" timestamp="1459864712"]Allows me to run smaller gauge wire from the panel to the controller, then, mount the charge controller closer to the GC2's. Less lossy.[/quote]Makes sense, thanks[/quote]I strongly suggest folks go this route though most do not. MPPT charge controllers are very efficient these days. Well worth a look.

[fasteddieb]

Work in progress...


[img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1454/25651268154_09bdb5f35d_z.jpg"]

[fasteddieb]

Mission accomplished:


[img style="max-width:100%;" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1592/26279326155_c4733180b3_z.jpg"]

Maybe $10 in hardware - mainly u-bolts, aluminum angle stock and fender washers. Lucky I had the aluminum stock and battery box already. Room for another battery box later if I decide on the 2x6v solution.

Probably just a temporary sub-$100 fix, but at least we'll have some backup power for this trip.

[daplumbr]

If I were looking for flat aluminum stock like that, where would I be looking? 

Brilliant method of attaching the battery box hold-down straps, by the way..........

[fasteddieb]

[quote timestamp="1459990295" source="/post/20297/thread" author="@sandroad"]If I were looking for flat aluminum stock like that, where would I be looking? 

Brilliant method of attaching the battery box hold-down straps, by the way..........[/quote]Metal shop? I had two pieces left over from a project years ago, which was convenient.

Thanks. I was going to go with eye bolts, but the unused plates from the u-bolts with nuts as spacers made a convenient slot for the straps.

As an aside, I got those straps for free from a BMW motorcycle shop. I don't know if they still use them, but they used to come as part of the shipping crate, and shops would end up with boxes full of them. Handy for all sorts of things and much more secure, and less dangerous, than bungees.

[fasteddieb]

An update about our brief FL trip...

First night was camping at the Horse Creek Winery on our way to Lakeland for Sun 'n' Fun. No problem. On departure from there the next day the new Walmart battery was showing 12.2v.

After the drive to Lakeland, about 5 hours, the new Walmart battery was pretty much fully charged by our Flex and @ 12.87v . Arrived in the afternoon. By the following afternoon, it was down to 11.84v, and I swapped it with the backup battery. We had used the furnace for about 30 minutes and the television for about 20 minutes, and not much else beyond the refrigerator and water pump.

Leaving Lakeland on Sunday morning, that original Interstate battery was down to 12.2v, with slightly less furnace use, and I again swapped batteries again so the newer Walmart battery could charge as we drove.

Did another battery swap after the Walmart dropped just below 12v while camped at Ft. Pierce. This is how I checked voltage, BTW:



[img style="max-width:100%;" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1688/26349787411_ae362169cd_z.jpg"]

Put the Walmart battery back in. Arriving at the Walmart in Lake City, FL it was up to 12.78v, but overnight using not much at all beyond the refrigerator, it had dropped to 12.03v.

Again, never ran out of power, so that's the good news. I am a little surprised at how quickly the voltage does drop with basically just the refrigerator and intermittent water pump use. We would even start the car when extending and retracting the slideout to save battery.

I'll leave it there for now, but will have a question tomorrow and will update you on our tentative plans going forward.

[daplumbr]

A couple quick things.....

The type of fridge we have uses a LOT of DC power. Use propane instead, if you aren't doing that already. That all by itself will GREATLY reduce the battery discharge. 

The state of charge of the battery scale is only for a battery disconnected and at rest. When they are connected and in use, the voltage reading will be related to the electrical draw more than the state of charge.