Boondocking power options

[daplumbr]

Here are some specific ideas for you.

If you go with two 6 volt golf cart batteries, one possibility is below, including a box and main battery power on-off switch. Just add wiring, connectors, and someway to secure the battery box.


Circuit breaker with on-off battery switch

http://www.solar-electric.com/mrcb-40-amp-dc-circuit-breaker.html

AGM batteries at $180 each (need 2)

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2agm/prod3870119.ip?navAction=

Flooded batteries at $85 each (need 2)

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?sprodId=prod3590228&selectedTab=allProducts&_requestid=948577

Battery box for two 6 volt GC2 batteries

http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Roto-Molded-Marine-Battery-23-63/dp/B000MTI1G4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1459469839&sr=8-8&keywords=moeller+battery+box


 

If you go with a simple replacement of the 12 volt you have now, I don't know the size. I use Group size 31, but that might require a larger battery box than what's on your 21BHS? Duracell also makes Group size 34 in a deep cycle.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232.ip?navAction=

And, there's really nothing wrong with the inexpensive Interstate deep cycle RV/marine batteries that are commonly available. A fresh one of those would be fine as a replacement until you decide to invest in more boon-docking power with a solar set up.

[david]

I would use a 40 amp breaker, not 80. Ten gauge wire is only good for 60 amps and the breaker needs to be sized to protect the wire. But as Charlie recommends in a previous post, 6 or 8 gauge is better. That circuit will never see more than 40 amps so size the breaker to pass the load and protect the wire- 40 amps.

And if you install a solar panel you will need to fuse the wire near the battery. Or you could use at least 12 gauge wire to your solar controller and make the connection downstream of the 40 amp breaker and it will protect the wire.

David

[charliem]

[font size="3"]I recommend larger wire, not for the current carrying capacity, but for the voltage drop. Even at 30 Amps twenty cable feet (round trip) of #10 will drop 0.6 volts. #6 wire will reduce that by 60%. At 12V, especially during charging, every tenth of a volt counts.
[/font]

[uscg]

[p]fasteddieb,
Do you happen to go to NASCAR events like Talladega? (the next one is May 1st, and I'll be there).  I am only asking because I see you live in GA.  You would be surprised to see all the Boon docking going on at a race like that.  For me, I have learned a lot by just walking around thousands of campers seeing what all of the redneck engineers have created to get them through the 3-5 days of camping in the track parking lot.

I have found the battery really doesn't hold out for what I do, but my little Honda Generator makes everything perfect. I LOVE my Honda generator and would recommend that anyone who does not have one should get one.

I have my camper also set up as a "bug out" shelter for my wife if the power should go out in the house for an extended period. All she has to do is pull the cord on the Honda, and turn on the propane and she can live just fine in the camper for several days in our yard if needed.  Keep in mind that I work for Norwegian Cruise Lines, so I am on ships working for 8 months a year, so she is home alone.
[/p][p]
[/p][p]Boon docking should be something that everyone is prepared to do and has practiced a few times to get the bugs worked out.  Having lived through several hurricanes and Ice storms, and had my house without power for several days, having my camper as a ready to go shelter at any moment is one of my biggest justifications for making the payment every month.  It like an insurance policy that makes me feel good to know it's there.  [/p][p]
[/p][p]Just like the Coast Guard Motto, Semper Paratus, Always Ready
[/p]

[flyhead]

Last season I purchased a Zamp portable 80 watt solar kit.  It replaced all the amps I used each day for my pickup camper.  Unit folds and fits in a nice zippered case with handle.  It folds down to less the 24" square.  I used two 24 group AGM's so I didn't have to vent.  I ran a few lights, an Engle 12 volt fridge and a CPAP unit each nite.  The Zamp is expensive, but the unit is totally  sealed and has strong tempered glass.  Also comes with  a 10 amp waterproof solar charger controller.  I'm going to use the same 48" box that Merlin used to store the two 24's I kept and add a waterproof sidewall port.
I hope it will keep me off the grid, if not I'll purchase another 40 watt.  Happy camping and check out all the wineries in BC sometime

[mitch]

I just saw this on Amazon. http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LXG4AXS?psc=1  Just add wire and a charge controller and you're all set for only $240.00. Or choose the same panel with complete package for only $20 more.  I have a Renogy 70w panel and I will say it is an excellent panel. I use a Morningstar controller (this one: http://smile.amazon.com/Morningstar-SS-10L-12V-Sunsaver-10-Amp-Lvd/dp/B002MQSTQ2/ref=sr_1_13?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1459545218&sr=1-13&keywords=morningstar+charge+controller) because it gets very good ratings.  A bit more expensive but with the panel you're still at $300 rather then the $450 to $500 kits.

If you go this route don't buy Solar Panel cables with MC4 connectors, just buy some 10 gauge wire (you could even use the wire from a heavy extension cord) and fasten you own MC4 connectors on the end.  I say this because solar panel wires are very rigid and a big PITA to coil up or lay flat on the ground.

[daplumbr]

[quote timestamp="1459509077" author="@david" source="/post/20098/thread"]I would use a 40 amp breaker, not 80. Ten gauge wire is only good for 60 amps and the breaker needs to be sized to protect the wire. But as Charlie recommends in a previous post, 6 or 8 gauge is better. That circuit will never see more than 40 amps so size the breaker to pass the load and protect the wire- 40 amps.

And if you install a solar panel you will need to fuse the wire near the battery. Or you could use at least 12 gauge wire to your solar controller and make the connection downstream of the 40 amp breaker and it will protect the wire.

David[/quote]Agree on the breaker. I changed the link. 

[fasteddieb]

These are all great suggestions - thanks!

Rough game plan right now...

1) For this trip, just install a new 12v deep cycle battery. Maybe carry the old one as a spare, and as aft ballast to reduce tongue weight a hair.

I went battery shopping yesterday, to O'Reilly's, Advanced and Walmart.

O'Reilly's:






Advanced:






(note that manufacture date!)

WalMart:






I'm leaning towards the Walmart. Interestingly, both Walmart and one other had "Premium" batteries for about $20 more, but they showed either the same capacity, or in the Walmart case, actually less. Odd.

2) Next step will likely be a portable solar setup. I'll likely choose one of the recommended ones in this thread, with a controller but no inverter. May even do that before this trip if I can get it delivered in time.

3) Long term think about the 6v batteries on the rear bumper. With the mounting and wiring, that's a bigger job than I want to tackle right now.

A thought on #3 - might it make sense to leave the 12v in place on the tongue as a secondary battery, with maybe a DPDT switch to switch from one to the other? Or with the solar is that just unneeded weight and complexity?

[david]

Those batteries all have filler caps which is good, but I don't see an amp hour rating anywhere, which makes me wonder if they are true deep cycle batteries. The other ratings I see are for starting applications, which is a pretty good indication that they are not deep cycle. When you build a battery to maximize its starting ratings with lots of thin plates you inherently do not have a deep cycle battery.

Also the ones I can see are Group 24. Can your battery box take a Group 27 which will give you more capacity. BTW, deep cycle batteries are normally rated as the total amp hours that they can supply over a 20 hour period until fully discharged.

True deep cycle batteries have heavier plates because the discharging/charging cycle will slough off some of the lead permanently as lead sulfate. A starting battery will look like swiss cheese after a hundred or so discharge/charge cycles. Golf cart batteries also have more clearance from the plates to the bottom of the case to allow for sulfate build up, as well as more headroom over the plates for electrolyte. Once enough sulfate builds up, it shorts the plates and the battery is toast.

The only widely available battery that I have seen that has filler caps and an amp hour rating is made by Interstate. Most auto parts stores can order them for you. But I don't know for sure if it is built with deep cycle features, although the one that came with my trailer is going strong after two years.

You can keep the tongue and bumper batteries hooked up in parallel and they will work fine together as long as they are the same type- both flooded cell (with filler caps like the ones pictured) or AGMs. No need to switch them in or out.

David

[fasteddieb]

David,

If you look closely the Walmart battery says 101 Amp/Hours.

I just looked up the Group 27 dimensions and I'm going to run down to see if one will fit the current box, bigger being better!

[david]

Fasteddieb:

Yes, it does give an amp hour spec, but not the industry standard 20 hour rating. I blew up your pic and saw that it says 101 amp hours @ 1 amp. So that is a 100 hour rating which is much more than it would be at the standard 20 hours.

I guess having a deceptive amp hour rating is better than no amp hour rating, but coming from a supplier named EverStart, I still have my doubts.

BTW, I just checked my trailer's Interstate battery and I was wrong on two counts: It is a Group 24, not 27 and it does not have an amp hour rating.

So give it a try, mine has worked ok. And FWIW most of these batteries are all made in the same factory anyway.

David

[fasteddieb]

No way a Group 27 will fit - too long for the existing box. My stock battery is a Group 24 Interstate as well.

Probably will go with the Walmart for the price and convenience. I have a spare battery box that I think is the right size, and I may mount it to the rear bumper to carry the current battery to have as a spare.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Fasteddieb et al,

See my separate post today re "Connecting 12 Volt Batteries in Parallel". I thought it worth a separate thread since it's a challenge that takes understanding, planning and extra work. [/font]

[daplumbr]

And look at the date codes!!!! Those Autocraft batteries have been sitting on the shelf for over a year. Bad idea. 

[drdave]

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WWzxq0aCfLE/hqdefault.jpg