Ford F150 and 21RBS

[bobbie56]

At last, I have the two together for the first time:


Let the camping season begin!

[leslie]

Good looking rig! Happy camping!

[hogtyd]

Congrats on the successful TV & TT introduction!  They look great together.  

-Graham

[swbc150]

[p]Nice looking pair you have there.

No WDH I see in your Pic. You are under the 500lb limit for the hitch dry weight for your F150 but once loaded and ready to tow you may want to recheck that hitch weight.

If you don't already have this, look into the "Sherline" Trailer Tongue Scale, one tool you should always have in your tow vehicle.[/p][p]
[/p][p]https://www.sherlinedirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=169&CFID=44582569&CFTOKEN=38069484[/p]

[bobbie56]

[quote source="/post/9830/thread" timestamp="1429809389" author="@swbc150"][p]Nice looking pair you have there.

No WDH I see in your Pic. You are under the 500lb limit for the hitch dry weight for your F150 but once loaded and ready to tow you may want to recheck that hitch weight.

If you don't already have this, look into the "Sherline" Trailer Tongue Scale, one tool you should always have in your tow vehicle.[/p][p]
[/p][p]https://www.sherlinedirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=169&CFID=44582569&CFTOKEN=38069484[/p][/quote]
Did a quick and dirty hitch load this past weekend, came up with around 500 lbs, so I setup the WD that I had (EZ2 round bar 600 lb). I had to move the propane tank back a small amount (about 3-4 inches), and I added the side bolts to strengthen the coupler. Tow tests were like night and day, and I didn't need the torsion I had with the old tow vehicle (was able to back it off 1 notch if you will).

Have to see how it holds up over this season, but looks great so far.

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/10080/thread" author="@gibby" timestamp="1430224399"]Did a quick and dirty hitch load this past weekend, came up with around 500 lbs, so I setup the WD that I had (EZ2 round bar 600 lb). I had to move the propane tank back a small amount (about 3-4 inches), and I added the side bolts to strengthen the coupler. Tow tests were like night and day, and I didn't need the torsion I had with the old tow vehicle (was able to back it off 1 notch if you will).

Have to see how it holds up over this season, but looks great so far.[/quote][font size="3"]You're confirming what I and others say, "You may not need it, but you'll want it." And glad you added the side bolts. You're set.

My 600/6000 E2 round bar hitch manual has an exception for less than 800# TW that allows a closer hanger mounting distance. You may have gotten away without moving the tanks. But it's done so Camp On!
[/font]

[bobbie56]

Did a quick and dirty hitch load this past weekend, came up with around 500 lbs, so I setup the WD that I had (EZ2 round bar 600 lb). I had to move the propane tank back a small amount (about 3-4 inches), and I added the side bolts to strengthen the coupler. Tow tests were like night and day, and I didn't need the torsion I had with the old tow vehicle (was able to back it off 1 notch if you will).

Have to see how it holds up over this season, but looks great so far.

[font size="3"]You're confirming what I and others say, "You may not need it, but you'll want it." And glad you added the side bolts. You're set.

My 600/6000 E2 round bar hitch manual has an exception for less than 800# TW that allows a closer hanger mounting distance. You may have gotten away without moving the tanks. But it's done so Camp On!
[/font]

You have the same bars I have, and I did try it shorter. But since it was reasonably simple to move the tanks back that extra distance (to get the 27"), it reduces the loads, and actually works better as the antisway pads are out near the end of the bars.

I was originally going to do the swap battery / tanks mod, but once I realized I only needed a few inches, I took the easy move. The hard part was using my 19.2 volt drill to drill 2 1/2" holes through the coupler and frame.

[bobbie56]

A picture of the side bolts.

[attachment id="806" thumbnail="1"]

[charliem]

A picture of the side bolts.

[font size="3"]Looks good. Did you just drill through the outside wall of the frame and put the nuts inside the frame tubing as I did, or did you drill all the way through the frame members and put the nuts on the inside of the A frame near the jack shaft?. My access to the inside of the A frame is blocked by a welded lower plate for the jack shaft. I've wondered if I could have put nuts inside the A frame if I removed the jack and reached in. Mechanically it's a toss up. Longer through bolts, if grade 8 high strength, would be less susceptible to bending, but they would also subject the aluminum tubing to a collapsing type compression. Probably mox-nix.

Although my 20V two speed DeWalt drill might have done the job, I did resort to the old plug-in 3/8" B&D for the heavy work.
[/font]

[bobbie56]

[quote source="/post/10110/thread" timestamp="1430242452" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/10109/thread" timestamp="1430241967" author="@gibby"]A picture of the side bolts.

[/quote][font size="3"]Looks good. Did you just drill through the outside wall of the frame and put the nuts inside the frame tubing as I did, or did you drill all the way through the frame members and put the nuts on the inside of the A frame near the jack shaft?. My access to the inside of the A frame is blocked by a welded lower plate for the jack shaft. I've wondered if I could have put nuts inside the A frame if I removed the jack and reached in. Mechanically it's a toss up. Longer through bolts, if grade 8 high strength, would be less susceptible to bending, but they would also subject the aluminum tubing to a collapsing type compression. Probably mox-nix.

Although my 20V two speed DeWalt drill might have done the job, I did resort to the old plug-in 3/8" B&D for the heavy work.
[/font][/quote]It is open tube at the front, so I only needed to drill through the coupler and the outside of the frame. The bolt is only 1" long.

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/10126/thread" timestamp="1430318037" author="@gibby"]It is open tube at the front, so I only needed to drill through the coupler and the outside of the frame. The bolt is only 1" long.[/quote][font size="3"]Thanks. That's what I did and so far so good.
[/font]

[spot1]

Nice looking rig and hitch mod.

[swbc150]

I will be doing the exact same drilling/bolt with my BC16FK.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]If there is any appreciable space between the coupler wall and the trailer frame it should be filled with flat washers. There should be no gaps in the stack up and no deformation of the coupler. Use a flat washer and a lock washer under the nuts. I recommend 1/2" grade 8 high strength bolts torqued to 80 ft-lbs. I considered stainless steel, but rejected it due to its lower strength rating.
[/font]

[swbc150]

Good points charliem, shall do..