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We have a leaker.

Started by whoofit, March 15, 2015, 08:56:24 PM

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whoofit

[p]Heavy rain on our 2 night trip this weekend. Dripping from the area where, what looks like, wood lags, holding the awning to the roof edge at the gutter. Dripping right down the wall, off the top of the window frame. Sad it's leaking but glad it's aluminum framed. First time the awning was deployed since new.[/p][p]
[/p][p]But wood lags?[/p]

tinkeringtechie

Bummer on the leak. Lag bolts are used because the aluminum is relatively soft and they need to have coarse threads to get a good grip. Are you sure that's where the leak is occurring, or maybe further up on the roof?
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

whoofit

It could be elsewhere Tinker. I'm thinking about trying some non staining dye to help determine the source. I think the entier roof line and light areas are going to need a thorough inspection.

The wood lags threw me for a loop. I really don't see sufficient sealant on the side that was leaking. Was pondering some rubber grommets/standoffs to act as a seal there.

jtelles3993

Bummer, hope it's as easy to find and fix as mine was!

whoofit

Yep, me too Surfsup. Considering the trailer sat around new on the dealers lot for 2 years I suspected there could be some unusual "new trailer" problem and this was one of them.

There is no evidence of the leak going on for years though. No mold, traces or lifting of the wall finish. I think we stressed the area on first deployment of the awning. It was not uncomfortable in any way. No wetness in the bed. No stressing about the sticks in the walls.

Could you all be kind enough to suggest some goop for a quick on the road repair assuming the wood lags are the issue? Anyone heard of improving the attachment points in any way? I'd like to be done with this area once and for all if possible.

jtelles3993

You can't go wrong with silicone sealant for general sealing jobs, I use GE Clear... But definitely Dicor for the stuff on the roof.

charliem

[font size="3"]Dicor makes several types of sealant, available a CW stores. This seems to be a favorite in RV shops. I would stop at a CW and ask what their shop folks would recommend for your particular physical situation. Dicor makes a self-leveling compound that's widly used on roofs and horizontal surfaces.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

solds88

[p]I use regular Dicor, not the self leveling, to fill voids and valleys and then use EternaBond tape. You can get EternaBond in several colors and widths. Enclosed is a photo of one of my TT's showing EternaBond on one of the longer seams. The tape is very flexible and should last many years.  [/p][p]
[/p][p][attachment id="642" thumbnail="1"][/p]

djsamuel

Geocel Profile RV is a great caulk. Silicone won't last very long on an RV. You can vet it at Camping World. For sealing the joints on the roof, use the tape as suggested or Dicor self leveling sealant.
Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


whoofit

Thanks all.

That tape looks like real good stuff. I suspect I'll find a crack(s) or the lags will need sealing so some form of dispensed caulk will be the ticket here. The Dicor products are far away and there is cold/rain in the forecast. Next week will have to be soon enough. We'll get to the bottom of this...

whoofit

Finally got around to finding and fixing this persistent roof leak. It was at the fore starboard corner transition between the curved aluminum front nose piece and the roof sheet itself. Three things learned.

First, this leak has been there for years (my TT was a 2013 leftover bought in 2015). It is obvious after witnessing the thick black gunk underneath the faulty seal. Gunk was cleaned out with a toothbrush, then stiff paint brush then Denatured Alcohol. Compressed air dried. Silicone there was replaced with Dicor self leveling injected deep into the crevice.

Second, silicone should be avoided whenever possible. It is a bugger to remove thoroughly where it is stuck inside of creases, holes, joints. Dicor does not stick well to it.

Third is a I love you, I hate you Camplite struggle. The construction materials of the build stood up extremely well to these [strong]years[/strong] of abuse by leaking. No apparent mold, delamination or discoloration issues inside. But, Hey Camplite,...WTF about the shoddy seams though? Dicor is bridging a 3/8" gap up there.....sheesh!

gnies

Just curious, I have a unused roll of eternabond tape at home, is the caulk put by the factory is silicone? I know that eternabond doesn't stick to silicone, so if I want to put some I have to remove the original caulk?  I am also wondering what caulking they used vertically it it's black instead probably because I have the black trim option

whoofit

[quote source="/post/9417/thread" author="@paul" timestamp="1429185900"]Just curious, I have a unused roll of eternabond tape at home, is the caulk put by the factory is silicone? I know that eternabond doesn't stick to silicone, so if I want to put some I have to remove the original caulk?  I am also wondering what caulking they used vertically it it's black instead probably because I have the black trim option[/quote][p]All the vertical seams on mine is silicone, clear. I don't have the blackout package. There is black butyl tape under the trim work where the screw are embedded though.[/p][p]
[/p][p]The area where I found the leak is a transition between vertical and horizontal. A "fuzzy gray area" on when to stop and start the silicone because it is a radius. I continued down the radius vertically for a few inches with the Dicor. Hardly noticeable unless you are really looking for it.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Silicone sticks well to surfaces but when it separates there is no proper repair besides removing all of it and reapplying. I would not leave even a trace of it behind before applying the Eternabond, Dicor or the like..... Yours being black will be easier to see if removing. The clear stinks for that.
[/p]

davidb

I would be very careful with silicone on metal due to the corrosive properties when used with metal (just ask any windshield shop about customers bringing in vehicles with holes where the silicone ate through)

I contacted the factory about the caulking they used on my roof areas because it's the best I have ever seen, they said it is a Manus Bond 76-AM product.

I recently installed the new Winegard Auto antenna and used the Sikaflex 715 product from the RV store and it seems fine.

gnies

[quote source="/post/9419/thread" timestamp="1429187069" author="@davidb"]I would be very careful with silicone on metal due to the corrosive properties when used with metal (just ask any windshield shop about customers bringing in vehicles with holes where the silicone ate through)

I contacted the factory about the caulking they used on my roof areas because it's the best I have ever seen, they said it is a Manus Bond product.

I recently installed the new Winegard Auto antenna and used the Sikaflex 715 product from the RV store and it seems fine.[/quote]So the roof is non-silicone and the caulk on vertical surface is silicone?