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Bent Coupler on 21RBS

Started by charliem, October 24, 2014, 03:59:35 PM

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djsamuel

Looks great.  Thanks for the pictures.  Can't beat the support from Don.

Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


spot1

Don has always been good to work with.

Like you say, it's a solution that will work. Looks good!!!!


charliem

[font size="3"]I just returned from a 500 mile tow with the new upgraded coupler. No indication of bending. No deformation of the forward flat washers which was one of the early indicators of bending before. The WDH is not cranked way up, but it was set to take out all the porpoising and bounce. It did bring the front TV fenders back about halfway from unloaded. The ride was very comfortable and felt secure. [/font][font size="3"]The larger 2-5/16" ball and different locking mechanism are a lot easier to couple and uncouple. I like it!
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

geo92128

OK I am trying to post the pictures of the heavier hitch (supplied by Sunny Island RV s LL did not install it) I have tried to post two pictures of the hitch with the side bolts installed but not sure it is happening; two pictures one of each side showing one side bolt high on the hitch and one low.



[attachment id="689"][attachment id="690"]

charliem

[quote source="/post/8950/thread" timestamp="1428369277" author="@monted"]OK I am trying to post the pictures of the heavier hitch (supplied by Sunny Island RV s LL did not install it) I have tried to post two pictures of the hitch with the side bolts installed but not sure it is happening; two pictures one of each side showing one side bolt high on the hitch and one low.
[/quote][font size="3"]It's hard to tell from the pix, but it looks like they got the general idea. Measured at the point the side bolts are inserted, how much space is between the black coupler metal and the aluminum frame? Is it a tight flush fit or is there space between the two surfaces? If space, is the space completely filled with flat washers or other material? What diameter are the side bolts?


BTW, your attached pictures are apparently HTML and open with Internet Explorer.
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

furpod

1st.. in an odd way, glad to see the coupler bent.. and not the frame.

2nd, I wonder if the stock coupler couldn't have a piece of angle, or "U" channel added/welded so it gripped or boxed the frame at the bottom. Then the extra bolt, or maybe two, added.

charliem

[quote source="/post/9345/thread" timestamp="1429030129" author="@furpod"]1st.. in an odd way, glad to see the coupler bent.. and not the frame.

2nd, I wonder if the stock coupler couldn't have a piece of angle, or "U" channel added/welded so it gripped or boxed the frame at the bottom. Then the extra bolt, or maybe two, added.[/quote][font size="3"]Of course, you're right. Much better to replace the coupler than to straighten the frame. I don't really think the frame is in danger of bending, especially if you don't go drilling holes in sensitive spots. You probably could figure some added bracketry, but you need to get it up front as far as possible. I've always thought the OEM coupler would be fine if properly installed. It can't be welded to the aluminum, but the two added side bolts seem to be adequate. The best solution would be for LL to properly position the coupler and tongue jack so there is minimal dead space between them and add the two bolts.
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

geo92128

[attachment id="766" thumbnail="1"] 

I finally got underneath the tongue to take a picture of the side bolts as applied by the dealer SI RV and not LL. 

[attachment id="768" thumbnail="1"]




LL puts this type of request back on the dealer according to SIRV service manager. He said they(dealers) do it all, batteries, insulation, extra plugs etc.
This picture is not very clear but it appears they put the bolts (again one high and one low) through the rectangle aluminum frame and bolt from the back of the tongue (opposite end of the ball socket) This appears to be the only way to reach the end of the bolt. The bolt size appears to be the same as other bolts used for the top. Hope this helps.

charliem

[font size="3"]MonteD,

It's hard to tell from your second picture. Are there nuts on the two added bolts or are they tapped and threaded into the frame member? Do the bolts go all the way through both sides of a frame member or do they thread into the second side wall? It's hard to see how there could be access to nuts if they go all the way through. Mine has a solid aluminum plate welded across the bottom of the two frame members through which the tongue jack shaft goes. This prevents access to any nuts on the inside of the front Vee.

How much open space is between the inside surface of the coupler and the adjacent outer surface of the frame member? Is the space filled with washers or just air?
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

bobbie56

Was able to get the side bolts in this past weekend too, and finish setting up the EZ2 round bar. Now the trailer is nice and stable behind us.

Thanks everyone for all the work we put together coming up with A solution to this.

swbc150

[p]Did this Mod to my BC16FK today.[/p][p]
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charliem

[font size="3"]Looks like you did it right. Good job.
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

thudd3r

while extra bolts may seem like a fix, i still think it is a band aid solution.  the LL campers were designed to be lightweight and just not designed to use a wdh hitch.  LL has always warned against the use of wd hitches on there campers, and while everyone points to the aluminum frame as the reason, maybe the fact that they are limited to bolt on couplers adds to their equation.  they are using a coupler spec'ed to meet the requirements of a certain amount of tongue weight (i would guess 10-15% plus some buffer).  saying LL is responsible for the coupler bending when the owner takes steps to compensate for the spec'ed tongue weight (such as a wdh hitch), even when it is suggested against, is a bit  irrational.

charliem

[quote source="/post/10667/thread" timestamp="1431398743" author="@thudd3r"] they are using a coupler spec'ed to meet the requirements of a certain amount of tongue weight (i would guess 10-15% plus some buffer).  saying LL is responsible for the coupler bending when the owner takes steps to compensate for the spec'ed tongue weight (such as a wdh hitch), even when it is suggested against, is a bit  irrational.[/quote][font size="3"]Disagree. The coupler was designed to be welded to a frame. It is manufactured with no holes in it. Clearly designed for welding to a steel frame. LL drills the four holes. This is a misapplication of the coupler. Other couplers designed to bolt on come with side holes drilled.
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

thudd3r

[quote source="/post/10670/thread" timestamp="1431401057" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/10667/thread" timestamp="1431398743" author="@thudd3r"] they are using a coupler spec'ed to meet the requirements of a certain amount of tongue weight (i would guess 10-15% plus some buffer).  saying LL is responsible for the coupler bending when the owner takes steps to compensate for the spec'ed tongue weight (such as a wdh hitch), even when it is suggested against, is a bit  irrational.[/quote][font size="3"]Disagree. The coupler was designed to be welded to a frame. It is manufactured with no holes in it. Clearly designed for welding to a steel frame. LL drills the four holes. This is a misapplication of the coupler. Other couplers designed to bolt on come with side holes drilled.
[/font][/quote]i agree that it may not be the best choice of parts, but as long as it is used as intended by LL and doesnt fail, i dont see how they can be held responsible when it is used in a manner other than intended and fails.

without a wd hitch, the ball can act as a pivot up and down as well as side to side.  this motion will reduce the stress on the coupler.  if the coupler is really that weak, i would expect that we would hear of failures from other that are not using a wd hitch.  i dont know the physics behind it, but i dont believe LL will ever take responsibility if the product is not being used as intended.  they will sell replacement couplers all day long, but you are going to be very lucky to have them replace one under warranty