Bent Coupler on 21RBS

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/4419/thread" timestamp="1414215559" author="@james"][font face="comic sans ms" size="3"]Here is a 15K bolt on coupler for a 2 5/16 ball. [a href="http://www.etrailer.com/p-BD44150WH301.html"]http://www.etrailer.com/p-BD44150WH301.html[/a] [/font][/quote][font size="3"]James,

I had looked at this one before, but for several reasons, it would be hard to mount on the CL. Among other things, the CL has plates welded such that access to the side holes is blocked. And if it would work I think the result would be similar to what I would get by adding the two side bolts to mine. Thanks for the input....Keep thinking about it.
[/font]

[shovelhead]

I inspected mine and with nearly 10K in miles no bends.  However, I feel the bolts are not tight enough. Anybody have a feel for the torque specs?

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/4423/thread" timestamp="1414253910" author="@shovelhead"]I inspected mine and with nearly 10K in miles no bends.  However, I fell the bolts are tight enough. Anybody have a feel for the torque specs?[/quote][font size="3"]How many gas bottles and batteries do you have on the tongue and do you use a WDH??[/font]

[shovelhead]

[quote source="/post/4424/thread" timestamp="1414254473" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/4423/thread" timestamp="1414253910" author="@shovelhead"]I inspected mine and with nearly 10K in miles no bends.  However, I feel the bolts are not tight enough. Anybody have a feel for the torque specs?[/quote][font size="3"]How many gas bottles and batteries do you have on the tongue and do you use a WDH??[/font]
[/quote]The standard battery and 2 bottles.  I have the Andersen WDH but have not towed with it yet. 

[solds88]

[p][font face="comic sans ms" size="3"]Charliem,[/font][/p][p][font face="Comic Sans MS" size="3"]
[/font][/p][p][font face="Comic Sans MS" size="3"]This, I.M.O., is the least invasive fix for your conundrum. I'd go with 1/4 or 3/8 plate. This piece could be flame cut in just a few minutes, or a band saw which would take longer. I would still go with a different coupler; the current coupler obviously has a bad track record. I'd also call L.L. and find out the results of the live test that they (should have) performed on your particular trailer? [/font][/p][p][attachment id="426" thumbnail="1"][/p]

[charliem]

[font size="3"]James,

Thanks for the reply and ideas. I had also thought of a similar approach using narrow strips of sheet steel or even short pieces of 1" or 1.25" square steel tubing. However, this still band-aids the underlying misapplication. I'm leaning toward adding the two 1/2" bolts on the sides, but I appreciate, and am open to, all thoughts. That's what's great about forums like this.
[/font]

[djsamuel]

[quote source="/post/4428/thread" timestamp="1414329806" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]James,

Thanks for the reply and ideas. I had also thought of a similar approach using narrow strips of sheet steel or even short pieces of 1" or 1.25" square steel tubing. However, this still band-aids the underlying misapplication. I'm leaning toward adding the two 1/2" bolts on the sides, but I appreciate, and am open to, all thoughts. That's what's great about forums like this.
[/font][/quote]Charlie,

I checked the coupler on my 21BHS and there is no bending at all.  I hit some really rough roads at 65 mph on our trip to Arizona and back, and the trailer was bounced pretty good a few times.  So I know we stressed that coupler pretty good.  With your WDH hitch adjusted as you normally do, did you ever weigh everything to determine the forces being applied at the hitch point?  I don't tighten up my Andersen hitch very much, so I may not be placing as much force at that point.  I would go with your idea of the two bolts in the side, to anchor the front end of the coupler.  I would use galvanized or even better, stainless steel bolts to minimize galvanic corrosion.  

Doug

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Doug,

Thanks for the reply and I'm glad you're not having problems. The first time I had this problem I had the WDH set pretty high. After I replaced the original coupler I set the WDH much lower, but still had the bending. I've not weighed to see the real numbers, but I really like the way it tows and can definitely tell the difference with and without WDH. I need to fix the coupler problem. From previous experience I don't think the WDH is too aggressive.

I don't think rough roads are the problem, but deep and short dips such as parking lot and gas station entrances are. Any place that elevates the trailer relative to the rear of the TV puts a lot of force on the coupler via the WDH. As you have said, weight distribution is not Anderson's strong point so you may not see the problem. An advantage to the full sized truck.

After I straighten the present coupler I'm definitely leaning toward the two added 1/2" bolts. I'm thinking I may have to add a few large washers between the coupler and frame to avoid deforming the coupler too much. I agree on stainless. Everything I add to the trailer is SS.
[/font]

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/4431/thread" timestamp="1414348402" author="exploring/carolina"][div][/div]Here's a photo link for the aluminum VRV XTR cargo trailer coupler. Looks like their installation has horizontal bolts in their coupling:

https://www.facebook.com/279747078718449/photos/pb.279747078718449.-2207520000.1414347506./838990712794080/?type=3&theater


Bill[/quote][font size="3"]Bill,

You're absolutely right. Now that you point it out I also see it on VRV 8.5x20, VRV 8.5x 24, Axxess 8.5x30, and several Polaris models. If the VRV is yours, can you tell me if the side bolts go through both walls of the frame tubing or just one and are there any added backing plates or nut plates for the bolts? I guess I'm on the phone to LL come Monday.

Thanks for the info and thanks for dropping by. How 'bout joining us?
[/font]

[spot1]

[quote source="/post/4432/thread" timestamp="1414351759" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/4431/thread" timestamp="1414348402" author="exploring/carolina"][div][/div][div][/div][div][/div]Here's a photo link for the aluminum VRV XTR cargo trailer coupler. Looks like their installation has horizontal bolts in their coupling:

https://www.facebook.com/279747078718449/photos/pb.279747078718449.-2207520000.1414347506./838990712794080/?type=3&theater


Bill[/quote][font size="3"]Bill,

You're absolutely right. Now that you point it out I also see it on VRV 8.5x20, VRV 8.5x 24, Axxess 8.5x30, and several Polaris models. If the VRV is yours, can you tell me if the side bolts go through both walls of the frame tubing or just one and are there any added backing plates or nut plates for the bolts? I guess I'm on the phone to LL come Monday.

Thanks for the info and thanks for dropping by. How 'bout joining us?
[/font][/quote]Charlie,

It's not my VRV. I have a CampLite 11.

Looks like an easy issue to correct during manufacturing or after manufacture. LivinLite could easily supply kits to correct affected models.

Almost sold our CampLite earlier this year to buy a larger TT, but decided to keep it a little longer. Rejoined!

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Great, Bill.

Glad to have you back. The side bolt is my preferred solution now, but I'm wondering if the VRV coupler is any beefier. It does look slightly different, and putting the side holes and bolts would be an easy job, even in the field. Thanks.
[/font]

[tinkeringtechie]

Just checked mine and it's not exactly flat, but not nearly as bad as yours. I'm interested to hear a response from CL on this one.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Here's my fix for the bent coupler on my 21RBS.

[attachment id="904" thumbnail="1"]

Don N. at LL was kind enough to send me the heavier coupler they use on their larger trailers. Although I believe the OEM coupler could have been straightened and made to serve with the addition of the side bolts, I elected to go with the heavier coupler and be sure. The new coupler weighs 9.875# vs. 7.25# for the original, requires a 2+5/16" ball, and must be positioned to accommodate the jack hole, but it can be drilled and mounted adequately. The coupler is first aligned with the jack hole, clamped, and marked in four places from below with a ½" drill. Then the coupler can be removed and drilled to fit.

[attachment id="905" thumbnail="1"]

With the coupler reinstalled the side holes can be drilled through the coupler and outside surfaces of the two frame members. I considered stainless bolts, but went with ½" dia. 13 TPI Grade 8 high strength bolts so I could torque them to 80 ft-lbs. Six ½" x 0.1' thick washers were added to each side to make a tight stack when torqued. The side bolts were drilled 2.25" up from the bottom of the frame and 1" in from the front edge of the frame. I used 2" long bolts with flat and lock washers. The resulting bolts position as shown.

[attachment id="906" thumbnail="1"]

The new coupler is 0.20" thick vs. 0.16" for the OEM and requires the larger ball. Theoretically the new coupler is 56% stronger in bending strength than the OEM [(0.20/0.16)**2] so it might work without the side bolts and the OEM might work with only the added side bolts, but I wanted to opt for overkill. The couplers are designed to be welded. If steel cannot be welded to aluminum the side bolts are required. Top bolts alone are marginal.

I emphasize that this is a solution, not the solution.  The best solution would be for LL to recognize that some customers will require a WDH on this sized trailer and  install an adequate coupler at the factory. They apparently have done so on their larger toy haulers. Even without the WDH contribution a coupler/ball combo rated at 5000# is marginal for a trailer rated at 5000# GVWR with 7000# axles. Two inch balls rated above 5000# are available, but the 2+5/16" is just nice. I haven't towed with this yet so the proof is still in the future, but it looks and feels good. Stay tuned.

Thanks to Don at LL for his help and cooperation. I will forward this info to him for their consideration.
[/font]

[solds88]

Excellent, it should have been this way from the get-go. 

[charliem]

[font size="3"]For those who might want to straighten and remount their OEM coupler I offer my soon to be patented Coupler Straightening Device (CSD). It carries absolutely no national certifications and is not endorsed by OSHA. It is, however, recommended by the EPA and other environmental groups interested in recycling. It works for me, but YMMV    .

[attachment id="907" thumbnail="1"]

[/font]