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Best way to mount solar on our trailers

Started by funpilot, June 28, 2014, 11:26:34 PM

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funpilot

What is the best way to mount solar on these trailers on our roofs?  3M VHB tape, paste/adhesive, or screw in? 

admin

Depending on the size of the system you are wanting to mount will change how to mount it. If you are looking for a smaller system like one or two of the 7 watt panels I'd go with velcro. Mainly because I'd take them down when traveling or storing. Plus with such small panels you may want to be able to move them around during the day to get the best sun, especially if you are in a somewhat shaded area.

Most of the time when I think solar I think about how to get the most from the system. In most situations that means finding the most direct sunlight and you cant do that with a permanent mount to the roof of the trailer. The system will still work, but you wont get everything possible from it. I've been thinking about getting an intro level solar system from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight just to get the concept down. Those 45-50 watt kits are less than $200 on a regular basis and sometimes less than $150 which is worth the money to get started in my opinion. http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html is the one from Harbor Freight. Now granted I know they are far from quality products and the charge controller is hit or miss from what I've read, but it's still a starting point and considering some 7 watt panels can run $80 it might be worth it.
If doing this kind of kit I'd rather have it be mobile. Get it rigged so that its a quick and easy setup and plug in. This way you can move it to the sunny spot(s) no matter where you end up camping.

If however you are looking to get a larger system to permanently mount I'd go with a solid screw in type system. The larger system would be nice if you dont have to mess around with setup each time, but you will need the extra capacity just due to the loss of efficiency. With the permanent mount I would think you would need the strongest mount possible if the panels have to stay attached in highway speed winds. I know there are plenty of strong adhesives on the market but trying to remove the panels later for repair or replacement would be far more difficult. With anything electrical I assume its going to need work so it should always be removable.

-Sean

charliem

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]X2 on Sean's response. Well thought out and covers all the options.
[/font][/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

tinkeringtechie

Ditto. We use solar to top off the battery while we're boondocking. Our approach is to use a 30-watt portable "briefcase" panel so that we can move it around during the day. We like to keep the trailer in the shade, so putting panels on the roof wouldn't work too well  :)

30-watts has been fine so far, but we'd like to move up to 100-watts in the near future. Here's the panel I've been wanting to get:

http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404142594&sr=8-3&keywords=100+watt+solar

We already have a 10Amp MPPT charger that we use with the 30-watt panel.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

funpilot

I "think" I want to put 200 watts on the roof.  Not my first expense though.

admin

Now I'm curious...what do you plan on running that you want a 200 watt system?  

mitch

What Sean says. Unless you know you'll be parked in the sun then a fixed panel is not terribly helpful.  Even a small amount of shade on just a corner of a panel radically reduces the panel efficiency.  
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

funpilot


mitch

[quote source="/post/1752/thread" timestamp="1404142703" author="@tinkeringtechie"]Ditto. We use solar to top off the battery while we're boondocking. Our approach is to use a 30-watt portable "briefcase" panel so that we can move it around during the day. We like to keep the trailer in the shade, so putting panels on the roof wouldn't work too well  :)

30-watts has been fine so far, but we'd like to move up to 100-watts in the near future. Here's the panel I've been wanting to get:

http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404142594&sr=8-3&keywords=100+watt+solar

We already have a 10Amp MPPT charger that we use with the 30-watt panel.[/quote]I have a Renogy 70 watt panel that I'm very happy with.
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

admin

Quote from: @funpilot" source="/post/1762/thread" timestamp="1404216763Anyone look at these?

http://gpelectric.com/products/solar-flex-kits-modules



A 30 degree flex mounted to your roof isn't going to do much good if you are parked in the shade. At best the flex would give you a slight boost when it comes to consistency of the array output. In other words if you are parked in with the array following the E - W orientation of the sun, then you might see the power output stay at a more consistent level longer.

I think the number one question you need to answer is how will you be able to get the longest lasting and most direct sunlight on the panels. If you are near the equator where the sun will be highest in the sky and you are not parking in the shade then a rooftop system might work out well. If you are further away and the sun gets lower in the sky and less intense then you may want to look at a more mobile setup.

Solar is one of those areas that you get sink as much money into it as you want but throwing money at it will only get you so far. You still need the basics covered or else you will just be wasting time and money.



On a related note my DIY side says there may be a happy medium if you are fairly confident in your skills.
If you want to get real slick with your setup you could make a quick connect mount for your roof that would allow you to have the panels semi-permanently mounted for when you don't want to deal with moving them around. Have the panels wired into a plug rather than hard wired. This would allow you to take them down with relative ease. Then you could have a mobile stand (really just a couple of legs to allow them to tilt) which would let you move them to any place that gets the best sun. At that point you are only limited to the extension cord length.

mitch


For the record here's my solar setup

This is a Renogy 70 Watt panel, the MC4 leads out of the back are connected to 2 conductors of a 25 foot 4 conductor, 10 gauge highly flexible cord.

[attachment id="200" thumbnail="1"]

This is my homemade controller box with gauges so I can see what's happening. There is an ammeter and 2 volt meters. The lead coming from the panel to the box uses a Mar Lan 10 gauge trolling motor connector, the other side of the connector is installed on the box, this allows me easy connect and disconnect. Inside the box is a Morningstar Sunsaver 10 amp PWM charge controller.


[attachment id="201" thumbnail="1"]

This shows the 10 gauge cables coming out of the controller box and going to the battery with simple battery clips.

[attachment id="202" thumbnail="1"]


All together this setup will provide me with about 20 amp hours of juice in 4 to 5 hours of good sun. All of the parts for this were purchased on Amazon, the total cost was roughly $275.

Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

funpilot

OK, you all are getting me to rethink whether I should go with solar on the roof.

My order has not been submitted, so should I delete "solar ready" if I decide to just go with a portable one, or would hooking it up to the solar ready wiring make it easier? They will install the "solar ready where ever I point."  Right now I have it over the bunk beds in the 28BHS so easy to get to by ladder. I guess I could put it on one of the sides instead...

I live near Virginia Beach and can go to near by beaches off season easily.  So, I am off grid but not in the boondocks.  This is going to be my "beach house".  I plan on also putting in a Honda 3000 generator so I can have A/C like this:  [a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918"]http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918[/a] or just leave it in the back of my truck.

Does doing that basically mean I do not need the solar?  

tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/1769/thread" timestamp="1404228449" author="@funpilot"]OK, you all are getting me to rethink whether I should go with solar on the roof.

My order has not been submitted, so should I delete "solar ready" if I decide to just go with a portable one, or would hooking it up to the solar ready wiring make it easier? They will install the "solar ready where ever I point."  Right now I have it over the bunk beds in the 28BHS so easy to get to by ladder. I guess I could put it on one of the sides instead...

I live near Virginia Beach and can go to near by beaches off season easily.  So, I am off grid but not in the boondocks.  This is going to be my "beach house".  I plan on also putting in a Honda 3000 generator so I can have A/C like this:  http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918

Does doing that basically mean I do not need the solar?  [/quote]If you'll be running a generator, the solar panels shouldn't be necessary. Most campground's don't allow generator usage at night, but your solar panels won't help then either  ;)

The "solar ready" option would really only be useful for roof mounted solar. If you want to use portable panels it wouldn't help at all (it would actually make it more difficult). When I switch to the 100-watt panel I'll also be purchasing a larger locking tongue box and then put the charger and other misc stuff in the box next to the battery.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

mitch

You can't run AC on battery power so solar does nothing for your AC.  If you're going to run a generator so that you can have AC that generator can also recharge your battery and solar will be redundant.  In my mind the benefit of solar is that I don't have to have a generator and mess with the fuel and, a big one for me, solar is noiseless. Bottom line as I see it, if AC is a must then a generator is a must and solar is not needed.
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

charliem

[quote source="/post/1771/thread" timestamp="1404229042" author="@mitch"]You can't run AC on battery power so solar does nothing for your AC.  If you're going to run a generator so that you can have AC that generator can also recharge your battery and solar will be redundant.  In my mind the benefit of solar is that I don't have to have a generator and mess with the fuel and, a big one for me, solar is noiseless. Bottom line as I see it, if AC is a must then a generator is a must and solar is not needed.[/quote][font face="arial" size="3"]Yep!  AC and/or Microwave = Generator = Battery Charging = [strike]Solar[/strike][/font]  :'(

 
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida