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Electric Jacks for CL trailers

Started by funpilot, June 23, 2014, 08:59:08 PM

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funpilot

Is there a conversion kit to change our manual jacks to electric ones or would it be cheaper to replace them?  By the way, what brand jack does LL use? Also, can we use the jacks for leveling?  Or, is it too easy to level the LL trailers that I am looking at a non issue?   

charliem

[quote source="/post/1655/thread" timestamp="1403567948" author="@funpilot"]Is there a conversion kit to change our manual jacks to electric ones or would it be cheaper to replace them?  By the way, what brand jack does LL use? Also, can we use the jacks for leveling?  Or, is it too easy to level the LL trailers that I am looking at a non issue?    [/quote][font face="arial" size="3"]I've never seen conversion kits, but they'd be expensive. I and others use a battery powered electric drill or driver with a 3/4 inch socket to run the stabilizer jacks. Works great, quick, and easy. That said, DO NOT attempt to level the camper with the stabilizers. The frame is designed to be supported by the axles and tongue, not the corners. Leveling with the jacks may impart a twist or other distortions. As the factory mounts the body to the frame the frame flexes. All subsequent assembly including fastening and weather sealing occurs in the presence of this flex. If the frame is subsequently flexed differently, as would occur with significant forces from the jacks, joints and seals may be damaged.  Therefore true power jacks on the corners is probably a bad idea.
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Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

funpilot

So how do you level the camper? I am going to guess, get the wheel to wheel as close as you can with blocks, front back with the front stabilizer,  and then adjust with the stabilizer jacks?

charliem

[quote source="/post/1657/thread" timestamp="1403571780" author="@funpilot"]So how do you level the camper? I am going to guess, get the wheel to wheel as close as you can with blocks, front back with the front stabilizer,  and then adjust with the stabilizer jacks?[/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Very close. Level side to side with blocks or wedges under the wheels and put chocks under the wheels. Then uncouple from the TV and level front to back with the tongue jack. Older fridges could handle +/- 6 degrees side to side and +/- 3 degrees front to back (referenced to the trailer) and the new ones are better. [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]The books say if you're comfortable in the trailer your fridge is too. Using a bubble level or your iPhone[/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"] it's easy to get the trailer within a degree in both directions. Then lower the stabilizers just to the point of ground contact plus about a single turn. It's best to put at least one block under each stabilizer to accommodate ground compression from leaves, mud, sand, etc. [/font][font face="arial"]With a little practice it becomes easy and quick. You'll get the hang of estimating how many blocks are needed by looking at the levels. Again, do not attempt to correct even one degree with the stabilizers.
[/font][/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

tinkeringtechie

Charlie's explanation is exactly right. I would just add two things:

[ul type="disc"][li]If you're going to be off level make sure it's in such a way that your head will be up while sleeping. If your head is downhill from your feet while sleeping you'll wake up with a heck of a headache.[/li][li]Think of the stabilizers like anti-bounce supports. They're only there to stop movement, not support any weight. Theoretically they only need to just touch the ground to prevent the trailer from moving, but as Charlie mentioned, the ground will compress and allow them to move unless you put a tiny bit of tension on them.[/li][/ul]
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

funpilot

Thanks very much.  My last RV had auto capability so all I did was push a button so learned nothing.

tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/1660/thread" timestamp="1403627198" author="@funpilot"]Thanks very much.  My last RV had auto capability so all I did was push a button so learned nothing. [/quote]If it was an RV (instead of a trailer) they normally have large hydraulic jacks that can lift the entire vehicle without damaging anything. They're also usually located by the wheels where the frame is designed to bear weight.

If you look closely at the camplite scissor jacks you'll see they aren't even attached to the main frame, but instead to smaller joists. The advantage of this is that they can be retracted above the frame for good ground clearance, but they wouldn't be able to support very much weight.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

funpilot

Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps.  Are these the ones?  http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/1663/thread" timestamp="1403632962" author="@funpilot"]Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps.  Are these the ones?  http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/quote]That's it. I've been really happy with them so far. The only downside was that I had to trim them to fit between the wheels. Here's what they look like in use:


[attachment id="182" thumbnail="1"]

They're more expensive than blocks (at least the cheaper ones), but they take up a lot less space, they appear extremely durable, they double as chocks, and they allow continuous adjustment.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

djsamuel

[quote source="/post/1666/thread" timestamp="1403637856" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1663/thread" timestamp="1403632962" author="@funpilot"]Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps.  Are these the ones?  http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/quote]That's it. I've been really happy with them so far. The only downside was that I had to trim them to fit between the wheels. Here's what they look like in use:




They're more expensive than blocks (at least the cheaper ones), but they take up a lot less space, they appear extremely durable, they double as chocks, and they allow continuous adjustment.[/quote]Are they the tires that came with your camper?  I guess you had the off road option.  What size are your tires?

Thanks,

Doug

Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/1670/thread" timestamp="1403652505" author="@djsamuel"]Are they the tires that came with your camper?  I guess you had the off road option.  What size are your tires?

Thanks,

Doug

[/quote]
Yeah, those came with the off-road package. The size is LT195/75R14 load range D.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

djsamuel

[quote source="/post/1671/thread" timestamp="1403652730" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1670/thread" timestamp="1403652505" author="@djsamuel"]
[/quote]Yeah, those came with the off-road package. The size is LT195/75R14 load range D.[/quote]What is the PSI rating?  I'm wondering if when the time comes, I can replace the ST tires that came with my camper with these, and not change the rims.
Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/1672/thread" timestamp="1403652852" author="@djsamuel"]What is the PSI rating?  I'm wondering if when the time comes, I can replace the ST tires that came with my camper with these, and not change the rims.[/quote]
Max is 65psi, but I think they're currently set at 50psi. I think you could swap for these pretty easily. Yokohama makes an LT tire in the same size and load rating for a bit less:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y356&partnum=975R4356&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

charliem

[font size="3"][font face="arial"]I also got the Goodrich All Terrain T/As with the off road package. I just replaced one ( caused by me) and had to order from Sam's Club. This sized tire is hard to find and expensive. $135 plus tax and mounting, but no shipping charge from Sam's. I run the max sidewall pressure of 65#.

I like the LTs for the tread and the looks, but the LT vs ST controversy rages on other forums. I also like the load range D rating, which is rare in a 14" tire. The Yokos are probably worth a look too.
[/font][/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

djsamuel

 This is all great info. Thanks.   :)
Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida