access to water heater?

[jimt]

How does one get to the water heater in a 16 TBS? I know it is under the bed at the end. I can't get the top off to access the water heater.
Is there some type trick to these strange screws? The look like star screws and some look like hex and nothing I have works to loosen them.
No matter what I can't seem to get that cover off to get at the water heater.

Any hints , tips, or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Would like to put my bypass system in now that I'm done camping for the year. Can't winterize until I do this.

Thanks in advance.

[david]

Jim:

Well, LL must be building them differently now. My 2013 16TBS has a lid over the end of the twin bed over the water heater that is hinged and pulls up to access the wh. I think I would talk to your dealer or if they don't know contact LL for help.

It is strange to bolt it up tight. Under that lid are the water heater, the fresh water pump and if you are lucky, LL has already installed bypass valves. Mine had them.

David

[charliem]

[quote timestamp="1480362105" source="/post/26117/thread" author="@jimt"]Is there some type trick to these strange screws? The look like star screws and some look like hex and nothing I have works to loosen them.
No matter what I can't seem to get that cover off to get at the water heater.
[/quote][font size="3"]Those strange screws are an 8 sided modification to the Robertson head. The original Robertson was a square but your screws are actually two squares overlaid to provide eight sides. This eases use in factories. A standard number 2 Robertson, sometimes called a square driver and available at hardware stores, works fine. [/font]

[jimt]

David

I wish mine just pulled up on hinges but it doesn't. Unless there is some trick it will not pull up at all and acts attached. Thus back to the screws.

A standard number 2 Robertson HMMM Thanks Charlie. I'll try it.

Thank you both for the reply.

[daplumbr]

Given that the water pump and hot water heater are in there, it's stupid to have that cabinet screwed shut. Mine was, so I installed a full length piano hinge on the cover (front of trailer end) and prop it open when I need access. 

[jimt]

Merlin

Do you have any pictures of how you installed it? Would be great to do and sounds simple. 

Thanks

[daplumbr]

Merlin

Do you have any pictures of how you installed it? Would be great to do and sounds simple. 

Thanks

First is the cabinet propped open. Second is the full length hinge showing how I screwed it down and the covered it with Gorilla Tape to protect the mattress cover from the metal. It's worked well for a year.

[attachment id="1888" thumbnail="1"]

[david]

That is similar to how my 16TBS was built by the factory I'm 2013.

David

[djmiller]

They should be screwed down now, and I know it seems dumb.... but another one of those code things that requires that so it cannot be considered a storage compartment.

[daplumbr]

They should be screwed down now, and I know it seems dumb.... but another one of those code things that requires that so it cannot be considered a storage compartment.

Thanks for the insight. I never thought of that. I suppose even a warning sticker wouldn't keep some folks from storing stuff in there if access were easy. 

[charliem]

[quote timestamp="1480621933" source="/post/26166/thread" author="@djmiller"]They should be screwed down now, and I know it seems dumb.... but another one of those code things that requires that so it cannot be considered a storage compartment.
[/quote][font size="3"]Well, that explains that. At least LL isn't intentionally trying to make life difficult. So now, owners, go make the camper useful and add the hinge. And, BTW, you can also remove those mattress labels now   . [/font]

[jimt]

Well I do thank you very much for the pictures . Great help indeed.
Thanks a bunch Merlin.

Yes it does explain that LL had a reason for the change.

[jimt]

Update on my issue.

I did get the cover off using my brand new standard number 2 Robertson head. I must say that only 2 screws held things in place. 2 of them were so short they didn't even make it through the cover frame.

I did have a built in hot water by pass already installed so things got very easy after that.

My only issue now is the hot water tank plug. I was able to unscrew  the plug and let the hot water tank drain just fine.
HA now I have a new issue. How in the world does one get that plug back in. The plug has this long rod on it. Not sure why that is.

I did not harm the threads I have checked. Yet I can not get that plug to start threading back in. Very limited space for my hand to even try and start it back.

Any hints or tips would be nice. I have no idea what the actual socket size is and maybe using a socket to thread it back would be the easy way. I just hate to think I have to buy a large special socket just for that.

Thanks for any help in advance.

[pygrydr]

Update on my issue.

I did get the cover off using my brand new standard number 2 Robertson head. I must say that only 2 screws held things in place. 2 of them were so short they didn't even make it through the cover frame.

I did have a built in hot water by pass already installed so things got very easy after that.

My only issue now is the hot water tank plug. I was able to unscrew  the plug and let the hot water tank drain just fine.
HA now I have a new issue. How in the world does one get that plug back in. The plug has this long rod on it. Not sure why that is.

I did not harm the threads I have checked. Yet I can not get that plug to start threading back in. Very limited space for my hand to even try and start it back.

Any hints or tips would be nice. I have no idea what the actual socket size is and maybe using a socket to thread it back would be the easy way. I just hate to think I have to buy a large special socket just for that.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Yeah, it can be a challenge.  Try putting firm pressure and a little extra pressure at the bottom as you start to turn in/install.  

[david]

I am a little surprised that you got the plug off without a socket wrench, but that is the way to get it back in. The rod is an aluminum or magnesium anode that protects the water heater from corrosion. If it is more than 1/3 corroded, replace it.

David