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Rear deck mods

Started by lora, July 19, 2014, 05:48:28 PM

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sal526

My QS6.0 with the factory rear deck has the wheels offset to the rear of the camper to accommodate the weight of anything carried on the rear deck so as not to affect trailer towing. How did 200lbs on your rear deck affect the handling of the trailer?

charliem

[quote source="/post/4455/thread" author="@warren" timestamp="1414421634"]My QS6.0 with the factory rear deck has the wheels offset to the rear of the camper to accommodate the weight of anything carried on the rear deck so as not to affect trailer towing. How did 200lbs on your rear deck affect the handling of the trailer? [/quote][font size="3"]How do you know this? Did you measure a QS6.0 of the same model year without the deck? If this is true, LL deserves a lot of credit for their engineering  :).[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

bear99

On a shorter/lighter trailer like the 6.0, it wouldn't surprise me to see there was some slight rearward wheel positioning to compensate for the weight of the rear deck and gear.  As you move the wheels rearward, you add tongue weight that counterbalances the trailer.  A smaller trailer won't overload the tongue of the smaller cars/larger motorcycles this trailer is designed to be towed behind.  

On an 8.1 or larger, moving the wheels rearward even a slight amount could/would add a lot more tongue weight.  I don't think 200 pounds of rack/gear adds enough weight to justify having to modify the balance point of the trailer.

So in towing the 8.1 with 150+ pounds of gear weight on the 20 pound rack, I really haven't noticed any change in how the trailer tows.  Have been out with a full rack of wood/coolers/etc. 3 times this month already.  :-)

sal526

No I did not measure the location of the axle but looking at side pictures of the 2015 QS6.0 you can see that the wheels on the rear deck trailer are closer to the rear of the trailer. Plus the dealer confirmed the more rear ward location of the axle. It doesn't really matter now because the QS6.0 I bought has the read deck but when I was shopping I had given thought to adding a rear deck and was concerned about tow ability. It is good to know that the additional gear hanging off the rear of the trailer does not negatively affect the handling.

mbanks

Jammo, it seems that your deck is a much better design than the original one! Congrats!

Is this your rack?

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-aluminum-cargo-carrier-92655.html

Did you consider removing the receiver tube or at least modifying it to avoid using spacers? Adding a bike rack to the receiver seems like a good idea, but I am really worried about the extra weight / torque.


sg

[quote source="/post/2667/thread" timestamp="1408196594" author="@johnny9k"]I ended up installing D-Rings.  Worked great for carrying 2 rubbermaids and our cooler.  So glad I got the bumper extension, was very useful for storing extra stuff like the carrying cases for grill and canopy.  Also was a nice dry spot for our wood.

[/quote]I like this D-ring configuration because the surface of the deck is still smooth.  I always end up sliding things on and off the deck even when the camper is open and access is impeded by the bed wing. This maneuver would be more difficult if the deck wasn't flat.

We have only transported two light lawn chairs on the deck so far, and haven't committed to any modifications, but your mods look nice.

jtelles3993

Some really cool ideas in this thread. I hope to put something smart together on my rear deck this month. Generator mount is my first thought?

sidecarmike

I'm guessing that I already know the answer, but is this rear rack something that can be added?  Mine doesn't have it.

cowfly

I've completed my rear deck mod with the 48" O-Track purchased from Northern Tools and I must admit it looks great!  I tapped the track mounting holes above the tail lights but added a nut to the bolts I could access by removing the lights (extra piece of mind).  I removed the angled trim piece next to the box and mounted the second track perpendicular to the deck.  I installed threaded rivets to secure the track to the box with three bolts passing thru the frame and held in place with fender washers and lock nuts (more piece of mind).  My next mode will be installing a eye bolt for locking my generator to the deck.  It will not stop a professional thief but it should keep the honest folks honest.  Thanks everyone for the post on this mod!  It does look factory...


[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="https://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-0/11224207_1018663201500003_6300723824461003669_n.jpg?oh=1e702a62bd2f3be132f34ddd18300227&oe=564DB50A&__gda__=1448190602_7b87d563b056a97271445c5397e4b86f"]




[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="https://fbcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xft1/v/t1.0-0/11750615_1018663238166666_8504534599194514408_n.jpg?oh=432f55e61d18ed8503118ab6f2bae40a&oe=5657F466&__gda__=1444376583_1c97527b3a09dd5ccd7a1afe14bba8e0"]


 

kelkat

what kind of tool removes those star like bolts on the rear deck?

stevesanders

Quote from: @kelkat" source="/post/19548/thread" timestamp="1457998102what kind of tool removes those star like bolts on the rear deck?
This is a question that has been researched before and confirmed by Livin' Lite.  The factory uses a #2 square drive.  The eight point screw head just makes it faster to align the square bit in the screw head.

stevesanders

Quote from: @nmken" source="/post/2679/thread" timestamp="1408221446Thinking about doing the L track like subaruwx but I have a question - as I read your description you aren't able to get to the backside to use bolts so are using very short screws -is this right?
When I installed the L-Track on my 6.0, I was able to use a mixture of bolts and screws.  Several of the bolt locations along the bumper could be reached with a washer, lock-washer and nut by removing the caps on the ends of the bumper and some of the lights.  I'm not suggesting it was easy, but for several locations it was possible.  Wherever I couldn't get a nut and bolt, I used screws.  My biggest concern was with attaching the front piece to the deck flooring.  I put that piece on the deck floor against the back wall.

I've had the L-Track on my 6.0 for at least five years and I've had no problems with the fasteners.  For several years I used a Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic box, but I've replaced it with a rectangular aluminum tool box from Tractor Supply.  I use ratcheting straps in addition to bolts through the bottom to secure the box.  The straps stay very tight at all times and the track has not lifted at all.  I've seen no evidence of materials being stressed.

noel

[p]I took a different approach with a permanent attachment.  I have a Rubbermaid style bin attached with bolts through the rear deck, then I use those same bolts to attach a vinyl fence post under the deck for pole and umbrella storage.  The bin has 4000 miles on it and the post has 2000 miles.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Here are some photos[/p][p]
[/p][p] [attachment id="1456" thumbnail="1"][/p]

shark24

Quote from: @noel" source="/post/21931/thread" timestamp="1465101782[p]I took a different approach with a permanent attachment.  I have a Rubbermaid style bin attached with bolts through the rear deck, then I use those same bolts to attach a vinyl fence post under the deck for pole and umbrella storage.  The bin has 4000 miles on it and the post has 2000 miles.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Here are some photos[/p][p]
[/p][p] [attachment id="1456" thumbnail="1"][/p]



Great idea! Wish we had the deck on ours.

sarabethm

I'm having trouble searching through forum posts, so please forgive if I'm posting this incorrectly!

I'm looking for advice on how to attach tie-downs to our new XLP's rear deck. I bought some steel tie-downs, and the guy at Lowes said I could use steel, self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum...but I'm dubious. Isn't the aluminum planking too thin? And the reinforced edges of the deck are too thick for a bolt, I think. But the edges do seem the best places to attach the tie-downs - but is a self-tapping screw enough for this?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'd love any hints and tips for working with aluminum!

Regards,
Sarabeth