Author Topic: Rear deck mods  (Read 10374 times)

nmken

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« Reply #15 on: August 16, 2014, 05:37:26 PM »
Thinking about doing the L track like subaruwx but I have a question - as I read your description you aren't able to get to the backside to use bolts so are using very short screws -is this right?

subaruwx

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« Reply #16 on: August 16, 2014, 07:46:43 PM »
Right - I used screws, not bolts.  Put some LockTite or similar to help secure the screw.

okeefe33

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« Reply #17 on: September 17, 2014, 04:38:21 PM »
[quote source="/post/2519/thread" timestamp="1407901038" author="@subaruwx"]Found my old photos and notes. I used 3 6ft lengths, not 4ft lengths as I stated above. I mounted one 6ft length on top at the end, one cut to fit against the diamond plating between the bunk support brackets, and 2 short ones along the side. The side mounts are not on the top, but along the side. I thought it looked cleaner.

The brackets for the bunk supports prevent the track from running the full length. The aluminum decking is pretty thin, so I mounted the track against the diamond plating so I knew it would screw into the thicker aluminum framing.


[/quote]I took Sub's idea and just did short strips on the sides of the deck. I got the strips from State Trailer. It did not turn out to be extremely expensive (I think $20 a track). I use rope to tie down my stuff and voila. I also added this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00174ZHGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to my deck so that I could use my bicycle hitch rack. I just drilled the holes into my deck and attached it around the center brace of the deck. This way there is almost no interference with using your deck and you can push it out as far as you want. I have the hitch fairly far forward so that the deck supports some of the weight of the rack.

subaruwx

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« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2014, 11:23:49 PM »
Let us know how that hitch receiver works. I've been thinking about bike rack solutions for a while, and this is an appealing option. I keep reading where others strongly recommend against this unless the aluminum beam support is strengthened. But on a QS with a rear deck, it's already somewhat stronger than a standard bumper.

I'm really curious also to hear how it tows with the extra weight on the rear.  Very exciting!  At least as far as bike rack solutions go...

okeefe33

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« Reply #19 on: September 17, 2014, 11:48:34 PM »
[quote source="/post/3643/thread" timestamp="1411007029" author="@subaruwx"]Let us know how that hitch receiver works. I've been thinking about bike rack solutions for a while, and this is an appealing option. I keep reading where others strongly recommend against this unless the aluminum beam support is strengthened. But on a QS with a rear deck, it's already somewhat stronger than a standard bumper.

I'm really curious also to hear how it tows with the extra weight on the rear.  Very exciting!  At least as far as bike rack solutions go...[/quote]I have had one trip with it. I had four bikes on the rack. It pulled great. The rack stem was so long that the bikes hung over the rear of the deck, so my deck was completely free for storage. I thought that is would fishtail, but it did fine. I thought that it would create a serious drag also, but that was not even noticeable. I put a block of wood under the rear end of the rack to help support the weight of the bikes.

lemieux

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« Reply #20 on: September 22, 2014, 02:30:05 AM »
bikes go into the jeep.  had an aluminum tool box welded to the back of my 6.0.  light weight.  good for minor (light weight) storage items.
 [attachment id="371" thumbnail="1"][attachment id="373" thumbnail="1"]

pastorrandy

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« Reply #21 on: September 22, 2014, 11:13:30 AM »
[quote source="/post/2603/thread" timestamp="1407984207" author="@subaruwx"]I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal. [/quote]
Hi subaruwx,

Finally received my track.  It came pre-drilled.  Looks like 1/4" holes so I'm guessing the screws will need to be 1/4" sheet metal screws.  What is your recommendation on the size hole I should drill?  I'm thinking 1/4" hole would be too big.  How much smaller were the holes you drilled as compared to the size of the screws you used?

Thanks,
John

gnies

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« Reply #22 on: September 22, 2014, 11:24:46 AM »
[quote source="/post/3714/thread" timestamp="1411363805" author="@lemieux"]bikes go into the jeep.  had an aluminum tool box welded to the back of my 6.0.  light weight.  good for minor (light weight) storage items.
 
[/quote]
Hi, this is a very interesting mod, did you did that yourself or went to a shop to get it done? Is it possible to take a picture and see how it is underneat? And where did you found this aluminium box?  Thank you!

subaruwx

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« Reply #23 on: September 22, 2014, 10:07:53 PM »
[quote source="/post/3719/thread" timestamp="1411395210" author="@qs6"][quote source="/post/2603/thread" timestamp="1407984207" author="@subaruwx"]I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal. [/quote]Hi subaruwx,

Finally received my track.  It came pre-drilled.  Looks like 1/4" holes so I'm guessing the screws will need to be 1/4" sheet metal screws.  What is your recommendation on the size hole I should drill?  I'm thinking 1/4" hole would be too big.  How much smaller were the holes you drilled as compared to the size of the screws you used?

Thanks,
John[/quote]A regular multipurpose bit will work. I'd suggest you choose a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft of the screw (not including the threads). The aluminum is soft - it will be easy to thread. Go ahead and get stainless steel screws - they will last longer.  Test on the underside of the read deck before you drill into the top and make sure your screw fits as tight as you want. 

pastorrandy

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« Reply #24 on: October 02, 2014, 11:28:16 AM »
I installed my L-Track and a couple D-rings over the past weekend on my QS6 platform.  As my deck is only 46" long x 19.5" deep, this seemed like a good solution.   The d-rings I centered on the rear bumper and used 1/4" x 3" long bolts with 2.5" fender washers and locking nuts on the back to secure them all the way through the bumper for additional support.   The d-rings also have rubber strips between the bumper and d-ring and d-ring and bracket to keep them from clanging around when not in use.

The L-Track I installed with 1/4" x 1" stainless steel sheet metal screws (picture below).  I purchased the [a href="http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/L-Track-Logistics-p/fe750-100-pd4.htm"][/a][a href="http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/L-Track-Logistics-p/fe750-100-pd4.htm"]L-Track from cargoequipment.com[/a].  100" for $52 + shipping.  I was originally drilling 3/16" (.1875" dia) pilot holes.  These were very nice an tight, but actually too tight as I broke the head off the fifth stainless steel screw I was driving in with an impact driver.   Lot's of fun getting this screw out.   For the remaining screws I switched to drilling a 13/64" (.2031" dia) pilot hole and although not quite as tight, I didn't break off any more screw heads.   :)





pastorrandy

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« Reply #25 on: October 05, 2014, 05:25:32 PM »
Loaded up this past Friday and headed out for a weekend of camping.  Everything traveled great.  The only problem is the license plate was blocked.  Will have to figure something out.




subaruwx

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« Reply #26 on: October 07, 2014, 02:24:11 PM »
Yes! Pictures please!

admin

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« Reply #27 on: October 07, 2014, 03:56:30 PM »
Agree with subaruwx...pictures please

bear99

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« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2014, 05:05:54 PM »
Apologies for the crummy pic.  Trailer is in the garage, behind the bike.  To get it out for a pic is a lot of work.

You get the idea.  I'll try to get a better pic when I take get it out next weekend.

[attachment id="399" thumbnail="1"]

bear99

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« Reply #29 on: October 17, 2014, 01:08:09 AM »
[quote source="/post/4141/thread" timestamp="1412712354" author="@jammo"]Apologies for the crummy pic.  Trailer is in the garage, behind the bike.  To get it out for a pic is a lot of work.

You get the idea.  I'll try to get a better pic when I take get it out next weekend.


[/quote]Better pics of the rack I created when my dealer missed the stock deck in the order.  

First pic.  You can see the L bracket mounted to the back of the QS under the rack.  This pic also shows the small spacer I cut out of square aluminum stock.  There is one of these on either side of the rack.  They're needed because the 2" tube that the steel receiver bar would have been bolted into is still on the rack.  That can be seen in the 3rd pic.

Second pic shows the bolts drilled down through the rack and L bracket.  I used flat washers and nyloc nuts on all the bolts.

Third pic shows the rack and the receiver bar tube that I hope to use to add a bike rack.  

As mentioned, I've carried wood, coolers, and anything I don't want inside the car, or won't fit in the QS.  It's not as strong as the stock platform would be, but i've carried 200lbs of wood, coolers, and other sundry items.  It's also very easy to strap items down to this rack with ratchet-style straps.  And it fits nicely between the bed support brackets.
 

[attachment id="410" thumbnail="1"]  [attachment id="411" thumbnail="1"]  [attachment id="413" thumbnail="1"]