LP Gas Monitors

[kycamper]

We are camping near Zion NP, after staying a few days in Bryce. Unbelievable!! 

Had some cold nights. Seems we always run out of gas during the night. I can tell by two, sometimes three things:

1) I don't hear the heater kicking on

2) SOMETIMES the red light on the WH is glowing or

3) my wife is GLUED to me for body heat. 

It's usually number 3

Going outside in the middle of the night to switch tanks is a pain.

There are LOTS of LP monitors on the market. Are any of them worth  the money?? I'd appreciate any good recommendations. This should be a " no Brainer".

Too bad we can't switch the tanks from inside the trailer. I could cut a hole......?!!!!!!

[dan]

Not sure how old your TT is, but mine is a 2016 and it has an auto-switch mechanism built into the regulator on the tanks; when one empties it is supposed to automatically switch over to the other tank.  Haven't actually had one empty yet, so i can't confirm that it works.  This was the stock regulator that came with my 16 TBS (dual tank).

[dan]

We just got back from Bryce too (two weeks ago).  For a slightly warmer experience, I highly recommend setting up camp at Kodachrome Basin State Park (about 20 miles from Bryce).  Awesome campground and much lower elevation, so a little warmer at night.

[david]

I like #3.

David

[kycamper]

Kodachrome Basin was full when we were there.

I don't have an automatic valve on my 2015, and frankly, wouldn't really like it. That only means that I am in a real "tight spot" when BOTH of the tanks are empty. I can sense that I am " low" due to the water heater, fridge , when traveling, and heater, but just want to be able to check the level of the tanks. They make different types of gauges. I'm just trying to find one that actually " works".

I'll check irv2

I like #3 the best, also. 

[charliem]

[ol type="upper-alpha"][li][font size="3"]There are no external gauges that work. Just physics and chemistry.
[/font][/li][li][font size="3"]You don't really need them anyway.[/font][/li][/ol][p][font size="3"]
[/font][/p][p][font size="3"]Due to propane's characteristics the external pressure gauges only tell you when you're empty or when you're not empty. No good warning beforehand. If you really want to know how much propane is in the tank you need an internal float, a good scale, or the neat new ultrasonic devices. Some folks claim success with hot water, but I don't like it and the ultrasonics work so well. However, with the auto switch regulators you just let one tank run dry and the regulator switches to the other. Next day you get the empty refilled and you're good to go. Never both tanks empty if you keep a watch on the regulator indicator. I thought the auto switch regs were std with any twin bottle installation. They can be identified by the little window on the front, but they're not expensive.
[/font][/p][font size="3"]
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[swbc150]

I switched over the 2 stock steel propane cylinders to the Viking units, not cheap at $96 ea and that was a sale price. I had to settle for the 6 gallon Vikings, they hold exactly 5.1 gallons full. They are nice because you can see through the cylinder and see how much propane is left. Depending on how much use I am using the propane determines if I need to turn the manual switch over to the full bottle if the night looks to be a cold one. I use the extra steel bottles for the gas grill so in a pinch I always have extra propane if needed.
The Vikings are super light to pick up, even a Full cylinder.
The Auto switch regs are the way to go though, that is one thing I need to install before next Spring.
I also use a Mr Buddy, with proper ventilation it keeps the LL warm at the low setting.

[keeena]

Worthington makes a 20lb tank w/ built in float-style measure & gauge. $35.


[a href="https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Propane-Tanks-Heaters/20lb-Propane-Tank-With-Gas-Gauge?id=13318"]LINKY[/a]