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Does the A/C work for anyone?

Started by woody, June 13, 2016, 12:27:17 PM

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sandyu

Thanks for the update. Please let us know what you come up with. What are dimensions by the way?  I can't get to my camper currently.  

knc1014

Quote from: @knc1014" source="/post/22174/thread" timestamp="1466021434[quote timestamp="1465941679" source="/post/22153/thread" author="@m0brando"]I'm sure the smaller camper has something to do with it but at the same time can you tell me if your unit sticks out of the side of the camper about 4-6"?  From your picture it looks like it might.  For those that have a newer unit that is fixed but sticks out the side, if you could post any pictures of the outside and inside mounting that would be helpful as I try to piece this together.
I have the 2016 QS 10.0 with a 5,000 BTU unit and live in FL...  Not much help in direct sunlight but it does get cold in there at night.  My camper is in the garage at the moment so I can't take too many decent pictures for you.  The one I attached is from a few weeks ago.  But if anyone has Instagram you can follow me knc1014.  I will be taking it out on Tuesday for a small mod and packing it up to head for the hills.  I'd be more than happy to share pictures of our unit on Instagram and also show how we modified a few things already.  My guess is though that you have a faulty unit!  I wish mine came with 8,000 BTU and when this one goes I will definitely be looking for something better..[/quote]

knc1014

Just wanted to clarify that in my 2016 QS 10 I have an 8,000 BTU.  I thought it was only 5,000 but I guess that's because it just doesn't do much in the heat and direct sunlight.

woody

Quote from: @kybrowns" timestamp="1466633384" source="/post/22443/threadThanks for the update. Please let us know what you come up with. What are dimensions by the way?  I can't get to my camper currently.  
Hole dimensions are about 19" wide by 13" tall.  No real way to go bigger because it is framed in as a part of the wall structure of the camper.  In my XLP14 the A/C unit sits up off the floor about 5" on an aluminum frame that is welded together and screwed into to the camper.  Hoping I have enough clearance (it will be very close) to use some drawer slides between this and the A/C unit to allow it to slide in and out.  My brother in law is going to help me with it over the 4th holiday - one way or another we'll figure something out - even if it's a manual setup!  Regardless it's going to stick out to breathe while camping!  :)  

bmxdaddy

[p]Guys, [/p][p]Where did you get the outside covers for your a/c units? I had one installed on my 14 XLP and they didn't put that on. [/p]

kinyo

[quote source="/post/22744/thread" timestamp="1467647051" author="@bmxdaddy"][p]Guys, [/p][p]Where did you get the outside covers for your a/c units? I had one installed on my 14 XLP and they didn't put that on. [/p][/quote]
My cover came with the A/C installation kit that my dealer ordered from the factory.

charlie2922

Been in MO for last 3 days. Our 2015 8.1 has 8000 Frigidare unit in it from factory. It has been extremely hot and humid since we arrived. We were first in a slot that had full sun on one end and side till around 1:30 PM. I requested a move when I had seen sun patterns for a shady spot. They let us move so we drove from Van Buren to Dexter for a 25 extension cord for our 30 amp hookup. Since moving it has been much better. We drove to Branson today and returned this evening and the camper was nice when we got back. Set it on 5 of 6 and 2 fans to circulate it. I do not think without a reflective cover you could keep it cool in full sun with an 8000. I may see if I can fit our emergency 12,500 into the space and try it.

 But it has been 100 and 75-80% humidity so in all fairness that is pushing it.

idlerockfarm

My AC works but I have to set ot on 7 to get it cool. It's the same temperature inside as outside if it's set any less than 6.

I'm just confused by this. The AC hangs outside, but it was sucking in air from inside the trailer. Now that I put it on 6, the cooling is happening again.

I haven't had it freeze on me. I think it just is underpowered or inefficient.

I'm in almost full shade a few hundred feet from Lake Michigan. I would have the screens open if the two families next to me didn't have shrieking children.  They scream for hours and hours and only stop to whine.

catmanriff

How many have run their 8000 BTU units off a 2k inverter generator? The unit should draw around 7-8 amps, no? So a couple fans along with the AC should work fine...

david

[p]I just read through this thread that I first ignored because I don't have a QS, but a CL. I was shocked.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Every "window unit" I have ever seen has vent slots in the side for about 2/3s of the length towards the back. Air is sucked in through these vents and blown out the back. This cools the condenser coil and takes away the heat that is transferred from the inside of the trailer.[/p][p]
[/p][p]It seems that LL has built some QS' with the rear of the air conditioner flush mounted and no side vents exposed to the outside air. I haven't seen a picture of the inside of one of these installations. Do they have side vents in the interior of the trailer, so that air is sucked in from the air conditioned space? If so this is horrible as you are exhausting your cool air!!! Even worse if you don't have any side vents. The unit should shut down because there is no way to exhaust its heat so the compressor/condenser will overheat and shut down.[/p][p]
[/p][p]It is no wonder that those with this type of air conditioning aren't getting any cooling.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Someone posted a video of cutting slots in the floor to bring outside air up into the unit which looks like a good solution. If the slots are big enough and sealed off from the interior of the trailer, that will function the same as extending the air conditioner out the side to let the normal slots work in open air.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Another solution that LL recommends is to cut slots in the sidewalls of the trailer to let open air be sucked in to cool the condenser. This will probably also work.[/p][p]
[/p][p]The bottom line is that this is a total screwup on LL's part to install a window unit flush to the outside. The best solution is to put the A/C on sliding rails so it can be pulled out to work as it was designed once you get the trailer set up. I understand that some QSs were built this way, but obviously not all.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Mr. Miller, can you comment on this type of air conditioner installation on a QS?[/p][p]
[/p][p]David[/p]
David M

16TBS towed with a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder

sandyu

You hit the nail on the head David. It seems like no thought was put into that AC box design. My AC was completely sealed in a box. The only way the AC could cool itself was using the air from in the camper and blowing it outside.

 I'm the one that cut the floor under the AC to let it breath outside air instead of the inside air and blowing it outside. This works well. Still will not cool during the day, unless shaded by trees.  



I wish they made the AC opening bigger to allow for a bigger AC. It might have a chance to cool well during the day with the help of a gizmo.

admin

I think they had a better design with my model year. I have an AC unit on sliders. It works well and tucks away when not in use. I think it's also a cleaner look externally because nothing hangs out during travel.

idlerockfarm

I wish that were the style for current models. Mine sticks out, but I wish it would stick out further.

I also wish I could have been given a cover for the hole for when I camp without the AC. As it is I have to leave it in.

cruiserdon

I HAVE A 2013 QS 10.0. I HAD SAME PROBLEM. ORDERED KIT FROM LIVIN LITE TO MOVE DANBY 8000AC OUT ALMOST HALFWAY. KIT INCLUDED SHORTER CABINET, SCREWS,TRIM AND SNAP ON COVER. NOW PARTS ARE ONLY AVAILABLE THRU DEALER .USED TO DEAL WITH GREAT GENTLEMAN JACK FILLEY. HELPED BUT DIDNT SOLVE PROBLEM. COLD AIR SINKS,HOT AIR RISES.AC SET AT 62 WOULD CUT IN AND OUT BECAUSE SENSOR ON AC IS LOCATED AT BOTTOM FRONTOF COILS. MADE AIR DEFLECTOR OUT OF ALUMINUM TURKEY ROAST PAN. LOL FORCES AIR UP .PUT SMALL FAN ON CABINET TOP TO DISRIBUTE COLD AIR . AC RUNS STEADY NOW,NO CUT IN AND OUT DUE TO FLOOR TEMPATURE. ALSO DRILLED HOLE ABOUT 3/8 INCH I LOWEST PART OF PAN ON AC. VERY EASY,JUST BE CAREFUL!   TO TEST CAMPER IN MY ALL METAL GARAGE. TEMP INSIDE GARAGE OVER 120, INSIDE CAMPER 68!!!! CALL ME AT 336 269 4721 IF QUESTIONS. THESE ARE GREAT CAMPERS, JUST NO FACTORY BACKING SINCE THOR INDUSTRIES OWNS NOW. SAD 

shall001

Late to this, but just sharing my experience.

We were camping in our 8.1 this past weekend, and it was pretty hot and humid out (lower 90s, very sticky). Running our AC with a box fan in front, angle up at an angle, kept the tent downright chilly (and dry) - my wife actually asked me a couple times to turn it down. This included in the heat of the day with the sun. No Gizmo or anything, no awning, just the AC cranked up. It was acually COLD at night - I probably overdid it...

As others have identified, the biggest downfall is the placement of the AC on the floor, which is necessitated by the soft top of the Quicksilver. Having the fan in front of the AC made all the difference for us. The small bunk area at the opposite end was equally comfortable.

If I turned the fan off, the area immediately in front of the AC was freezing; the rest of the camper was cool-ish.