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New Member with 16TBS

Started by popup2012, December 29, 2015, 10:27:16 AM

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popup2012

2012 Taco with 28,000 miles[attachment id="1090" thumbnail="1"]

charliem

[font size="3"]I can't comment in detail on the Anderson because I don't have one, but it looks like the ball could be lowered. If perfect level is not possible it's preferable to tow nose down. Actually it's perfectly acceptable and is slightly more aerodynamically stable. Merlin, djsamuels and others with Andersons should jump in here.

I also don't like the angle of the chain attachment bracket, but it may not be correctable without drilling, which is a no no. There is a tremendous sideways force on those brackets which accounts for the poor weight distribution performance of the Anderson. I tow a 21RBs with 525# on the tongue with a Taco and an E2 WDH with absolutely no problem. Very stable and comfortable.

I notice the coupler does not have the side bolts. The 2-5/16 coupler is an improvement and is stronger, but it can still benefit from the side bolts if you want to apply weight distribution.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

pinstriper

Yeah those brackets look jacked up to me. Like 6" brackets on a 4" frame.

I still wanna know what the tongue weight is, and I'm not convinced WDH is necessary with this trailer/TV combination. Was this tried with just a plain old hitch/ball at the correct drop ?

And what else was in the truck bed that could be overloading the back end ?
Let's eat, Grandma !
Let's eat Grandma !
Punctuation. It saves lives.

2014 14DBS
2013 4Runner | 2006 F-150 5.4 V8 (ruh ruh ruh)
2015 Hobie Outback

daplumbr

I run with 6 threads showing on the chain-end bolt. You might try adjusting that up or down. The chains pull on the friction cone the hitch ball sits in and provides the sway control. The tighter that nut (more threads showing on the chain-end bolt), the more sway control. I think the angle of the brackets on the frame is just barely ok. Mine are at a shallower angle because I lengthened the chains to clear the propane tank support. The chain needed to be able to slip a bit in the bracket while underway so the red cushion thingie can do it's job and soften the operation of the hitch. Otherwise, I agree that a bit nose down is best if not level. Try some different holes on the hitch mount?

28,000 miles on the Taco is great! It's a keeper!

Charlie: I don't get the comment about sideways forces. Isn't all the force on those brackets a straight pull in line with the chain? Or is that what you meant?

Pinstripes: The 16 has a 3 inch frame, the smallest that will work at all with the Andersen. 

charliem

[quote source="/post/17710/thread" timestamp="1452653192" author="@sandroad"]Charlie: I don't get the comment about sideways forces. Isn't all the force on those brackets a straight pull in line with the chain? Or is that what you meant?[/quote][font size="3"]Yes, that's what I meant. The brackets on the E2 use the same two bolt clamping attachment, but the majority of force is downward. Even so the frictional force that provides sway control tends to move the brackets if not really tight. The Anderson starts out with a tremendous preload (chain tension) to attempt weight distribution.

Also the length of chain doesn't affect the force on the brackets. It's the same short or long and is always in line with the chain. I suppose, once angled, it doesn't really make much difference but it just looks bad.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

popup2012

I ask the Andersen people about the bars on the frame and they said no problem.  I agree it does not look OK. They said I should take more turns on the tension nuts and if that did not work, drop to the bottom holes on the hitch (bottom hole and middle hole).  I had to put the trailer in storage today (cannot keep it at house for over 48 hrs at a time).  Later this week I will pull it out and try some other things.

daplumbr

This is very relevant to me because I'm looking for ways to take the last bit of bounce out of towing. 

charliem

[quote source="/post/17713/thread" timestamp="1452655099" author="@popup2012"]I ask the Andersen people about the bars on the frame and they said no problem.  I agree it does not look OK. They said I should take more turns on the tension nuts and if that did not work, drop to the bottom holes on the hitch (bottom hole and middle hole).  I had to put the trailer in storage today (cannot keep it at house for over 48 hrs at a time).  Later this week I will pull it out and try some other things.
[/quote][font size="3"]Again, I don't have an Anderson so I'm not the expert, but I can summarize other WDH setup rules. First, the WDH corrects the TV, not the TT. As such the height of the tongue and the leveling of the trailer should be set by the ball height. The ball should be lowered first. Then you should measure the sag of the TV at the rear fenders with the WDH disabled. For the Anderson this would be with the chains loose. With the WDH enabled the goal should be to recover about half that rear fender sag. Attempting to recover all the rear sag will result in too much stress in the WDH system and is probably not achievable anyway. Some residual sag is OK. This should also correct most of the increase in front fender height which results from unloading the front axle. That said, the Taco/16xxx should not need much weight distribution. It doesn't take much to significantly damp porpoising, at least on spring bar type hitches.  [/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

djsamuel

The installation of the Andersen hitch looks fine, much like my install, which has been terrific for about 8,000 miles.  I think the issue is not the WDH since the truck really should not need one, as pinstriper also stated above.  At 270 pounds of tongue weight, the truck's back end should not be dropping that much.  Something else seems to be an issue here.  I think we're missing the real issue by concentrating on the WDH.  In fact, it seems as though the towing was even worse without the WDH.  At those weights, even a plain hitch tow should not be bad.

Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


mitch

I have the Anderson WDH and until recently a 2013 Tacoma.  The angle on the WDH is correct, the instructions even say that there will be an angle.  Based on my experience and research I think the issue is twofold.  First the tongue weight on the camper is to light. When I first started towing my 13QBB it was a bit wiggly when it was empty. When loaded AND with about 8 gallons of fresh water in the tank it was markedly different, this without the WDH at all.  Second, the Tacoma has a weak rear end.  I couldn't understand why I had so much squat with such a light trailer so I started searching.  I found numerous Toyota forums that said the springs on the Tacoma were to few and too light.  My solution of running with some water in the tanks and adding the WDH to reduce sway and bounce at the hitch changed the way it pulled completely.  
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

charliem

[quote source="/post/17704/thread" timestamp="1452648928" author="@popup2012"]2012 Taco with 28,000 miles
[/quote][font size="3"]For you Taco owners this may or may not apply. When I started towing with my 2013 Taco I noticed a vibration when accelerating in low gears in the 0-20MPH range. It felt like the typical drive train or U-joint problem. Some research showed this was a known and documented TACO problem beginning in 2009. When I took the new truck back to Toyota the fessed up and fixed it under warranty, but there was no recall. They just fixed when owners complained! As part of the fix they replaced the rear springs with a beefier version including an additional leaf. Some links to start your education:[/font]

[a href="http://www.aboutautomobile.com/Complaint/2013/Toyota/Tacoma/Power+Train"]http://www.aboutautomobile.com/Complaint/2013/Toyota/Tacoma/Power+Train[/a]

[a href="http://www.tacomahq.com/3392/toyota-tacoma-driveline-vibration-tsb-2005-2014/"]http://www.tacomahq.com/3392/toyota-tacoma-driveline-vibration-tsb-2005-2014/[/a]

[a href="http://www.tacomahq.com/2629/driveline-vibration-expand-tsb/"]http://www.tacomahq.com/2629/driveline-vibration-expand-tsb/[/a]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

daplumbr

I'll bet beefier springs would do the trick! Many of the symptoms seemed to indicate a rear suspension issue. 

popup2012

I am getting too  much squat on the truck.  I took it in under warranty and complained about the springs but they said nothing was wrong.  I am going to try again tomorrow and see what they say.

charliem

Quote from: @popup2012" source="/post/17762/thread" timestamp="1452816517I am getting too  much squat on the truck.  I took it in under warranty and complained about the springs but they said nothing was wrong.  I am going to try again tomorrow and see what they say.
[font size="3"]How many leaves are in your rear springs? I ended up with four after the fix/upgrade. I average 1-7/16" drop w/o the WDH as measured at the rear wheel fenders, although it varies from left to right. This is with 525# tongue weight. I would expect you to get less. [/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

daplumbr

[quote source="/post/17762/thread" timestamp="1452816517" author="@popup2012"]I am getting too  much squat on the truck.  I took it in under warranty and complained about the springs but they said nothing was wrong.  I am going to try again tomorrow and see what they say.
[/quote]Take in the Technical Service Bulletin number that Charlie posted. It always helps to go armed with specific information.