. A/C mods on my 8.1

[vmcmn]

The A/C in my QS had been installed at the dealer and they had just cut a small hole in the side of the cabinet to let the air into the living area. Problem was the A/C was not cooling because the hole wasn't big enough and the air was hitting the sides of the hole and bouncing back toward the back of the cabinet. I decided to fix the problem by cutting down the cabinet so the front of the A/C was exposed. While I was at it I took the door that was in the side of the cabinet and installed it where the power outlet for the A/C was (my wife and I had both hit the GFI plug with our feet getting out of bed in the dark) and put the outlet behind the door. I then ran the power cord behind the wall to the repositioned outlet behind the door,no more GFI plug sticking out the wall and I now have a cubby hole for storing bungee and extension cords. I also put a locking support(like found on a folding table leg) to hold up the outside door since the A/C doesn't slide out any more. Now it gets nice and cool inside and that makes camping in the Florida heat much nicer    8-)



[a href="http://s429.photobucket.com/user/HHRnole/media/DSCF1802_zps96a62b0f.jpg.html"]

[admin]

I like the idea of using that cubby space.

Do you run into any trouble not sliding out the AC unit at all? I was under the impression that it needed to slide out to get enough air flow and drain any condensation that might occur. I've wanted to do something with my unit since its not to easy to have to reach under the shelf to adjust the AC unit settings.

[vmcmn]

The A/C on the newer models doesn't slide out either so I don't see any problems. I have a 1 1/2 to 2 inch space on either side of the unit which I have filled with a cut to size A/C filter material(it's the blue on either side of the unit in the picture) so I should get plenty of air drawn in.As far as condendsation,I heard somewhere that these units have a drip pan in them and that the condensation is pulled up by the condenser fan along with the air to help cool the condenser. If I do get condensation I will build me a drip tray with a drain hole on the outside edge to fit between the slide rails,that way I can slide it in and out to catch and direct what little condensation there is outside.
[a href="http://s429.photobucket.com/user/HHRnole/media/DSCF1809_zps70618ceb.jpg.html"]

[vmcmn]

Ran the A/C for about 3 hrs. today while doing some more mods (pics to come) glad to report that it cooled just fine with no problems.

[lemieux]

Love it!

[admin]

Great news...I may be doing a similar mod to my 10.0 in the near future depending on how much free time I can find

[m0brando]

Thank you for posting this!  Can I ask a question or two?  I live in Ontario and have little use for AC, but I have been thinking of a California trip..

Did the dealer install the outside door on your QS 8.1 as part of the original A/C installation?  Mine has no door, which is a constant problem for setting up.


Where did you get the panel to replace where you took the cabinet door from?

Thanks!
Sue

[vmcmn]

Sue,
     The door was done by the dealer along with the A/C install. I figured the dealer did it because it differs from the install done at the factory. The factory install has the door opening downwards with the hinge on the bottom and with latches on either side of the door to secure it when closed. Mine was done the other way with the hinge at the top and a single latch at the bottom to hold the door closed.Like I said there was just a hole cut into the aluminum panel in front of the A/C and the edge that had been cut was not trimmed well. With the hole only 8 inches tall it didn't let the air out very well. I figured that the Dealer had gotten the unit from LL and had a hard time selling it without an A/C because they were in South Carolina.The unit I bought must have been a floor model because it was much less($2500-3000) than than the units that I was able to find here in Fla.which made the trip to SC worth it. As far as the panel,I found 4'x8' plastic wall panels at Lowes that match the texture of the panels that are used to cover inside of the trailer box. The panels are thin enough that they can be cut easy with a good pair of heavy duty scissors to whatever size you need.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Tim

[vmcmn]

Sue,
      Here's a few of the links to ideas that were posted on the Yahoo site.
       https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/livinlite/conversations/topics/6557
       https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/livinlite/conversations/topics/6005
       https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/livinlite/conversations/messages/4572

                                                                                     Hope this helps,
                                                                                                            Tim

[m0brando]

Very helpful Tim!!  Thank you very much.  I would love to have an exterior door on my 8.1 that could mostly hold the leveling blocks etc, but occasionally hold an A/C unit.    I will see if a local dealer can do the outdoor panel and I might attempt your mod on the inside.

The other photos / discussions were great too.  Appreciate it!

Sue

[vmcmn]

You're Welcome

[mbanks]

Tim, what is your towing experience with the HHR? Looks like you are close to the max limit. What mileage drop do you get?

[vmcmn]

Greg,
 With my HHR I have done many modifications for towing as in adding a transmission cooler that is a low pressure drop type rated @ 18,500 GVW,Bagged rear suspension,Larger Front Brake rotors and a Trifecta tune written especially for my needs(increased transmission line pressure and motor torque).I've noticed a drop of around 2-3 mpg on the highway if I keep my foot out of the throttle. I monitor my fuel mileage and other functions real time with a Scanguage II that I have mounted on the dash.I also added brakes to the trailer with a Hopkins Insight brake controller mounted in the car. I have towed with this setup around Fla. with no problems except developing a leak in one of my rear bags that BTW I'm going to change the way that the bags are mounted in the springs before my next trip so hopefully I won't develop a leak again. If you have an HHR Greg,you can find more info on what I have done to the car @ http://chevyhhrfamily.forumotion.com/forum in the camper section under the screen name HHR Nole.
                                                                                                                                             Tim

[mbanks]

thanks Tim. I have Rav4 V6 but I am also considering the additions of the brakes. I already wired for 7 pin and I wired brake controller as well, just need to add the brake controller and the brakes to the trailer. Could you please give me more info on the brakes that you used and whether the installation was in any way complicated?

Driving on flat ohio I see only a little brake performance issue, but I am worried that in west virginia this will be more of a problem.

Greg

[vmcmn]

Greg,
     The brake controller I installed is the Insight model from Hopkins http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/brake-controllers/insight-flex-mount-brake-control.html
     I like it because it is a porportional type which slows the trailer down according to the rate that the tow vehicle is stopping. It also is a modular system allowing the display and control to be placed in reach and in sight so that you can adjust without having to take your eyes off the road.Just make sure that if you have a newer vehicle with computers that you connect the brake signal wire to the right place. For example on my HHR I have a sensor in place of a typical brake switch on top of the brake pedal and it has 2v on it.The 2v is enough to send a signal to the BCM (Body Control Module)but not enough to signal the controller which requires 12v. The 2v sent to the BCM in turn signals it to send 12v back to the high mount brake light (3rd brake light) which in turn sends 12v power to the the brake light circuit in the tail lights. I had to run a wire back to the rear of the car to tap into the brake light circuit so that I had a 12v signal when the brakes were applied.
    The brake kit I got off of E-bay from R&P carriages http://www.ebay.com/itm/Add-Brakes-to-your-trailer-Complete-kit-2000-axle-7-/350555782446?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519ec0bd2e&vxp=mtr
    You can also get the 7" components from E-Trailer but you end up spending more. One thing I do reconmend if you get the kit from R&P is that you replace the seals with double lipped seals,because the seals that come with the kit are single lipped seals and if you have the EZ lube Dexter axle you will blow grease by the seal the 1st time you pump it full of grease.As far as install of the brake kit it wasn't to hard as long as you have a few mechanical skills and feel comfortable doing it.
    I can see your concern about WV having lived on the edge of the Great Smokies NP and knowing how steep some of those grades were.Check out the differences in Porportional and Time delay controllers and you will see why I picked a Porportional over the Time delay for Mountian driving. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx
                      Hope this has been some help,
                                                   Tim