New Coupler and WDH

[swbc150]

[quote source="/post/13822/thread" timestamp="1438267125" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/13507/thread" timestamp="1437673428" author="@swbc150"]Unless I missed it, what brand and where did you get the 2 5/16" coupler at, do you have the part number?
After only 5 campouts my Stock 2" coupler is showing wear, no reason to replace it with the same unit, I would rather upgrade as you did.
In about 6 weeks my TV will be a F350, so I can stop using the WDH. (I'll have it stored in the Bearcat but I shouldn't need it anymore)[/quote]Here's the coupler I used:

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Bulldog/BD44150WH301.html
[/quote]Got it ordered Today. My 16F350 came in on Monday, have a campout towards the end of this month coming up and want this upgrade on the Bearcat.

[tinkeringtechie]

I will need to purchase a   new ball for the Anderson hitch, its about $50.

I guess you could always sell the old one on Ebay. Did you try contacting them about doing an exchange? They've been really easy to work with.

[pjcd]

I'll give it a shot, but sometimes it'll cost you something to learn a lesson. 8^)

[pjcd]

[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss145/pjcdemil/IMG_2653_zps4nzfaj70.jpg"]Just replaced my coupler, little bit of trouble, nothing serious.

[pjcd]

[quote timestamp="1436936968" author="@tinkeringtechie" source="/post/13245/thread"]The coupler went on fairly smoothly. The stock holes on the back of the coupler ended up being in the correct spot, but had to be widened from 3/8" to 1/2". Once I drilled those I test fit it and then traced the two front holes with it on the trailer. The jack hole ended up being slightly further back from the bottom plate, so I had to dremel it back about another 1/16" or so. Although the coupler sides were lined with holes for horizontal bolts, only the front one is accessible through the frame tube openings. So I did install some 3/8" grade 8 bolts at the very front for good measure. There was a small gap between the coupler sides and the frame that was snugly filled with one washer. I was finishing up in the dark and didn't get to take pictures... will post those tomorrow, probably after the Andersen installation (it was just delivered today).[/quote]I just got done replacing mine, same set up. I was wondering, you said that you put grade 8 bolts on yours,,,,, I replaced mine with the same, but being the observant person I am, I noticed that the old bolt were also grade 8, well dah! I guess it doesn't hurt to put new hardware on. Were your old bolts a grade 8? Did you torque the bolts or just put the death grip on them?

[tinkeringtechie]

The coupler went on fairly smoothly. The stock holes on the back of the coupler ended up being in the correct spot, but had to be widened from 3/8" to 1/2". Once I drilled those I test fit it and then traced the two front holes with it on the trailer. The jack hole ended up being slightly further back from the bottom plate, so I had to dremel it back about another 1/16" or so. Although the coupler sides were lined with holes for horizontal bolts, only the front one is accessible through the frame tube openings. So I did install some 3/8" grade 8 bolts at the very front for good measure. There was a small gap between the coupler sides and the frame that was snugly filled with one washer. I was finishing up in the dark and didn't get to take pictures... will post those tomorrow, probably after the Andersen installation (it was just delivered today).

I just got done replacing mine, same set up. I was wondering, you said that you put grade 8 bolts on yours,,,,, I replaced mine with the same, but being the observant person I am, I noticed that the old bolt were also grade 8, well dah! I guess it doesn't hurt to put new hardware on. Were your old bolts a grade 8?

The old ones were also grade 8 and I reused them. The ones I was referring to in my post were additional bolts that I added on the side:
[a href="http://imgur.com/RhpQWqV"]
[img style="max-width:100%;" src="http://i.imgur.com/RhpQWqV.png"]

[/a]I probably would have added a few more for good measure, but those were the only ones that I could reach with a wrench.

[pjcd]

Thanks, I may throw a couple on the side as well.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]You're in better shape with the heavier coupler, but put two side bolts in to be absolutely sure. Had LL put them in we probably all would still have the OEM coupler.
[/font]

[pjcd]

I'm going to add the bolts on the side, however I really don't see it making any difference, none of the factory couplers have any and the way this new one is designed it would take a tremendous amount of torque to bend it. The four bolts on top are doing all the work. They have a tensile strength of around 150,000 psi.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]The side bolts make a tremendous difference. The problem is not the top bolts, but the bending of the coupler. Take a look at the pictures on the bent coupler thread. The point of greatest stress is just forward of the two front top bolts. That's where the old coupler bent. In general these couplers are designed to be welded to a steel frame all along the edges. The one you and TinkeringTechie used is designed to be bolted along the sides in most of those holes. That's where the strength comes from. If you look at the LL toy haulers you will see the side bolts.
[/font]

[pjcd]

I couldn't agree with you more, the coupler that came with the trailer is only rated for 5000 lbs, the new coupler is 15000 lbs, I did add the side bolts, and the added security is worth the effort, but do you really think that there would be a chance the new coupler would ever bend? BTW, when I took off the old coupler, you could see that it was deformed from where the trailer jack was attached, it looked like the weight of the trailer alone was causing it to buckle. LL really needs to dump that POS and put a more robust coupler on, at least for this model.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]The coupler rating is more related to the ball size rating and assumes the coupler is properly applied and installed. Going by weight and measurement I think the new coupler is about 1.5 times as heavy/thick, maybe more for the cast Bulldog. Therefore it is stronger by design, but without the side bolts or weld the geometry is the same. The for top bolts with no side bolts is just a poor application of the part. If you never use WDH you'd never see a problem. With any significant weight distribution I'd never feel confidant without the side bolts. Of course the strongest would be a steel coupler welded to a steel tongue, but you can't do that with our aluminum frames. With the side bolts I don't expect any bending. Without side bolts, even with the stronger coupler, I can't say for sure. Only time would tell.
[/font]

[pjcd]

Well, like I said, its added piece of mind, I'm going to add a couple more bolts at a later date, I'll have to pull the top bolts in order to get it done.

I have a Anderson WDH, but don't know if i'll use it, I took the trailer out on a 250 mile trip with out a WDH or sway bar, I tow with a Chevy diesel and didn't notice any ill effects, (I was passing tractor trailers and they were passing me and didn't notice any issues). Normally I would tow with all the add ons, but this is the lightest travel tailer I've owned and it seems to tow just fine with out them.

[gbpack]

When putting the side bolts in (through the side of the coupler), did you have to do something to prevent collapsing (denting) the hollow aluminum frame? I'm having a hard time visualizing how you can crank down on and tighten those bolts without the frame bending in.

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/15640/thread" timestamp="1443569442" author="@gbpack"]When putting the side bolts in (through the side of the coupler), did you have to do something to prevent collapsing (denting) the hollow aluminum frame? I'm having a hard time visualizing how you can crank down on and tighten those bolts without the frame bending in.[/quote]They only go through the outer wall. Both Charlie and I put washers between the coupler and frame to make sure that it wasn't pulled out either. Basically you're making a metal sandwich with no gaps before you apply the bolts so nothing moves.