USB ports not working?

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Here's the drawing. Black is what I think should be. [font color="e61948"]Red is what I think is happening[/font], plus or minus the exact location of the 30A fuse. Not sure about that. Essentially F4 has been put in series between the 12V system, including the battery, and the converter. It must support charging and all 12V items. When F4 is blown you get no 12V from the converter and no charging. F4 should have nothing to do with the converter.

[attachment id="951" thumbnail="1"]
[/font]

[david]

I think you are right Charlie. I had this issue in the back of my mind when I criticized the OP's 20 amp fuse kludge. Should have spent more time thinking than criticizing, a regular failing of mine ;-).

David

[charliem]

[font size="3"]David,

No issue. Two brains are better than one and often produce  3+ times the solutions. Thanks for your help.
[/font]

[rob]

My buddy did come over last night.  Unfortunately I packed the camper up due to the severe weather warning that covered most of Ontario last night.

Based solely upon by description of the problem, he believes the camper is wired as follows:

http://farm1.staticflickr.com/430/19635141703_7ae4842591_b.jpg

Pretty much what Charlie described.

[obadiah]

Rob I have this exact problem with my trailer! What did you end up doing to fix the problem?

O

[rob]

20amp fuse in #4 appears to be working.

[cowfly]

I am having the same problem.  Should the wiring be corrected or is replacing fuse #4 a safe band aid?  Thanks...

[charliem]

I am having the same problem.  Should the wiring be corrected or is replacing fuse #4 a safe band aid?  Thanks...

[font size="3"]IMO, as an engineer, the wiring should be corrected. The 20A fuse in #4 seems to work as a bandaid, but I don't know what size wire is there and what other problems may arise. If you're electrically handy it should be no problem to fix. If you're not, look for someone who is. [/font]

[cowfly]

I'm pretty handy (insert joke here), so I'll look into this a bit more.  Thanks for the trouble shooting...

[christianm]

Ok! So reading through this and hearing that more than a couple people have had this problem. Based on y'alls experience and opinions, is this a design flaw that needs to be brought before Livin Lite production? Or is it something else? 
Sorry for my ignorance, just want to make sure that it's getting fixed in future units (if thats the fix!) 

[charliem]

Ok! So reading through this and hearing that more than a couple people have had this problem. Based on y'alls experience and opinions, is this a design flaw that needs to be brought before Livin Lite production? Or is it something else? 
Sorry for my ignorance, just want to make sure that it's getting fixed in future units (if thats the fix!) 

[font size="3"]Thanks for your attention on this, Christian. This is exactly what this forum should be doing. From what I've seen this is a mistake occurring at assembly. The converter is properly designed. Either the LL manufacturing instruction is wrong, not specific enough, or not being interpreted correctly. Some quick attention from the production folks, with Engineering consultation, should solve the problem. We would also be interested in the Factory's corrective action so current users can upgrade their units.

Thanks again. This will work.   [/font]

[rob]

I have decided that I will have my friend look at it properly in a couple of weeks, when I prep the trailer for storage.

The 20 amp fuse in #4 is working. I have charged the battery several times, without issue.

WRT the USB ports, they are still not working. I am not overly concerned.  

[obadiah]

[quote source="/post/14507/thread" timestamp="1440425888" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/14505/thread" timestamp="1440423858" author="@cowfly"]I am having the same problem.  Should the wiring be corrected or is replacing fuse #4 a safe band aid?  Thanks...[/quote][font size="3"]IMO, as an engineer, the wiring should be corrected. The 20A fuse in #4 seems to work as a bandaid, but I don't know what size wire is there and what other problems may arise. If you're electrically handy it should be no problem to fix. If you're not, look for someone who is. [/font]
[/quote]The three loaded circuits are good to 25A each and the gauge supports the claim... There is only one battery output/charging circuit. The 30A reverse circuit is down line of the charge circuit. There is no method to remove the hot battery bus when you're plugged in... From my reading but the manual sucks. I see no way around the 25A max battery draw without shore power for all outlets without removing the converter box from the circuit. It's like the design was one-way only providing for charging.

[charliem]

[font size="3"]Not sure what you're saying. It's good the branch circuits can handle 25A. I'm just not sure what size wire is used in the camper itself. None of the 4 branch fuses should be directly in series with the battery. I think the battery should connect directly to the bus. The 30A fuse should be between the bus and the converter output, protecting only the converter from battery reversal. The four branch fuses should be connected between the bus and the load circuits. The 4 LED blown fuse indicators should monitor only the load circuits. See the diagram in my July 29 post. [/font]

[charliem]

So you're saying there is no direct connection available to the bus?  Seems strange. The reverse protection 30A fuses would never blow because the 15 or 20 would go first. The WFCO in my Rpod and the PP in my 21RBS are built and wired correctly