What battey group size for 13QBB

[runningwriter]

What battery group size do I need for a 2011 13QBB?  The battery shelf is 10.75x7.5".  Group 24 batteries that I see online are longer than 11".  Are they measuring the top plate of the battery?  My camper, though wired, came with no battery or box.

Second question: is the electric brake battery (mounted on the tongue) getting charged when I have shore power?  Once those wires enter the black sheithing, it's anybody's guess where they go.

[david]

Dave:

My 2014 16TBS came with an Interstate Group 24 battery in a box mounted in an aluminum frame. Group 24s are about 11" long so maybe LL made a mistake when they fabricated yours as the frame needs to be about 12" long to handle the box. I wouldn't go any smaller than Group 24.

So since it looks like you are going to have to make something new (or stretch what you have a bit) let me make a suggestion. It all depends on whether you need extra capacity and how much tongue weight you have and how much extra you can stand.

You can take a couple of lengths of aluminum angle, maybe 1-1/2" on a side and bolt them crosswise through the outer rails. Make them wide enough to take whatever battery box you want: Group 24- 70 AH, 27- 90 AH, 31- 110 AH or golf cart batteries- 220 AH for two.

Note the approximate amphour capacity above. FWIW we typically use about 10 AH per day. It is not a good idea to discharge deep cycle batteries more than 50% for best life. So we can go 3, 4, 5, and 11 days with the batteries listed above before we need to recharge. Note that you have to wire the two 6V golf cart batteries in series to get 12V but that is by far the best bang for the buck. But it will add about 60 lbs to your tongue weight.

The subject of the trailer brake battery was discussed on another thread. Apparently it is not wired to be charged from any source- a big mistake by LL. There are several solutions: 1a) recharge it once each season with an external charger or 1b)jumper it to the main battery while plugged into shore power overnight to recharge from the converter 2) install a relay system to do the same as 1b automatically 3) install an diode isolator to keep it charged but not allow it to be discharged with the house battery 4) Remove it and wire the emergency battery switch to the main battery- my choice. The latter is what most trailer manufacturer's do, but some states may require a separate battery, so maybe 3 is the best choice.

David

[gnies]

[quote source="/post/3731/thread" timestamp="1411411759" author="@david"]Dave:

My 2014 16TBS came with an Interstate Group 24 battery in a box mounted in an aluminum frame. Group 24s are about 11" long so maybe LL made a mistake when they fabricated yours as the frame needs to be about 12" long to handle the box. I wouldn't go any smaller than Group 24.

So since it looks like you are going to have to make something new (or stretch what you have a bit) let me make a suggestion. It all depends on whether you need extra capacity and how much tongue weight you have and how much extra you can stand.

You can take a couple of lengths of aluminum angle, maybe 1-1/2" on a side and bolt them crosswise through the outer rails. Make them wide enough to take whatever battery box you want: Group 24- 70 AH, 27- 90 AH, 31- 110 AH or golf cart batteries- 220 AH for two.

Note the approximate amphour capacity above. FWIW we typically use about 10 AH per day. It is not a good idea to discharge deep cycle batteries more than 50% for best life. So we can go 3, 4, 5, and 11 days with the batteries listed above before we need to recharge. Note that you have to wire the two 6V golf cart batteries in series to get 12V but that is by far the best bang for the buck. But it will add about 60 lbs to your tongue weight.

The subject of the trailer brake battery was discussed on another thread. Apparently it is not wired to be charged from any source- a big mistake by LL. There are several solutions: 1a) recharge it once each season with an external charger or 1b)jumper it to the main battery while plugged into shore power overnight to recharge from the converter 2) install a relay system to do the same as 1b automatically 3) install an diode isolator to keep it charged but not allow it to be discharged with the house battery 4) Remove it and wire the emergency battery switch to the main battery- my choice. The latter is what most trailer manufacturer's do, but some states may require a separate battery, so maybe 3 is the best choice.

David[/quote]Where is this emergency brake battery located? I was under the impression that it was already setup as the option #4 you listed above

[tinkeringtechie]

[quote source="/post/3732/thread" timestamp="1411412353" author="@paul"][quote source="/post/3731/thread" timestamp="1411411759" author="@david"]Dave:

My 2014 16TBS came with an Interstate Group 24 battery in a box mounted in an aluminum frame. Group 24s are about 11" long so maybe LL made a mistake when they fabricated yours as the frame needs to be about 12" long to handle the box. I wouldn't go any smaller than Group 24.

So since it looks like you are going to have to make something new (or stretch what you have a bit) let me make a suggestion. It all depends on whether you need extra capacity and how much tongue weight you have and how much extra you can stand.

You can take a couple of lengths of aluminum angle, maybe 1-1/2" on a side and bolt them crosswise through the outer rails. Make them wide enough to take whatever battery box you want: Group 24- 70 AH, 27- 90 AH, 31- 110 AH or golf cart batteries- 220 AH for two.

Note the approximate amphour capacity above. FWIW we typically use about 10 AH per day. It is not a good idea to discharge deep cycle batteries more than 50% for best life. So we can go 3, 4, 5, and 11 days with the batteries listed above before we need to recharge. Note that you have to wire the two 6V golf cart batteries in series to get 12V but that is by far the best bang for the buck. But it will add about 60 lbs to your tongue weight.

The subject of the trailer brake battery was discussed on another thread. Apparently it is not wired to be charged from any source- a big mistake by LL. There are several solutions: 1a) recharge it once each season with an external charger or 1b)jumper it to the main battery while plugged into shore power overnight to recharge from the converter 2) install a relay system to do the same as 1b automatically 3) install an diode isolator to keep it charged but not allow it to be discharged with the house battery 4) Remove it and wire the emergency battery switch to the main battery- my choice. The latter is what most trailer manufacturer's do, but some states may require a separate battery, so maybe 3 is the best choice.

David[/quote]Where is this emergency brake battery located? I was under the impression that it was already setup as the option #4 you listed above
[/quote]Our 21BHS did not come with a separate battery for the emergency brakes. They are connected directly to the main battery.

[david]

So as not to pollute Dave's primary question about battery sizes and racks, I have started a new thread on the brake battery question. I couldn't find the old thread. Maybe the brake question was part of another thread. I have copied the relevant part of my post above and some of the responses.

David

[gnies]

Hi Dave, I have a 2015 13QBB and mine came with the same battery as David, an Interstate Group 24 battery

[runningwriter]

Paul, if it's not much trouble, can you pull the measurements on your battery tray.  Group 24 would have been the smart choice from LL, but the battery measurements I see online will not fit my tray...unless they are measuring the battery lid surface.  That can sometimes be different.

i would sure hate to have to look at a group 22 battery.   :-[

[runningwriter]

"Where is this emergency brake battery located? I was under the impression that it was already setup as the option #4 you listed above"

Here is a photo of mine.  Glad I checked the charge.  It was at 11.8 volts.  Battery is in the left hand box.

[gnies]

[quote timestamp="1411487524" author="@dave" source="/post/3773/thread"]Paul, if it's not much trouble, can you pull the measurements on your battery tray.  Group 24 would have been the smart choice from LL, but the battery measurements I see online will not fit my tray...unless they are measuring the battery lid surface.  That can sometimes be different.

i would sure hate to have to look at a group 22 battery.   :-[[/quote]
When I get home I will take mesurement and picture for you

[gnies]

Ok so here are the mesurement. I mesured the aluminium base under the battery box. The mesurement are about 11'x7' 6".

The battery brand I have (I did a mistake on my previous post) is Cyclone C24DC100 (see picture)

[gnies]

I wonder if my battery was installed by the dealer and not LL because the French language is first on the ticket and my dealer was in Québec and they have law to have French first on ticket of merchendise, I would think that if LL installed it it wouldn't be French first? Also I can't find any info about "Cyclone" battery online which is weird?

[runningwriter]

Paul, thanks.  Those a the same outside to outside dimensions as mine.  A the beginning of this thread, I was quoting the inside dimensions of my tray.  A group 24 should work.  Yea!  Thanks a great deal.

[solds88]

[p][font face="comic sans ms" size="4"]Dave,[/font][/p][p][font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4"]
[/font][/p][p][font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4"]Take your pocket tape measure and go to the Wal Mart automotive department. Most Wal Mart stores have all their batteries in a rack next to the automotive service desk.    [/font][/p]