Battery discharging to the tune of .7 amps

[charliem]

[quote source="/post/5116/thread" timestamp="1416147779" author="@antares4141"]I would assume the propane detector either has a dedicated fuse through the box or some kind of inline fuse very close to the battery? I'll let everyone know what I find out with the ramp lights.  Seeing as they are exterior lights and sealed I don't think shavings would be a problem like someone mentioned about interior lights.
[/quote][font size="3"]Easy to check. Pull all the 12V fuses and see if the detector light is still on. If it is you've found part of your problem.
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[daplumbr]

I'm interested in the question of idle DC current draw too, because I'm winter storing my trailer with a battery installed to run the lights (if I need them), but without the shore power connected. I unplugged the radio and the LP leak detector fuses (both in the main fuse box) and then checked for DC draw. There is a little (I don't have an accurate meter, so I have no specific numbers). In looking at the converter manual, I think it is the source of the remaining DC current draw. It must use at least a small amount of power all the time. There may be a separate in-line fuse I haven't discovered yet in the wiring between the battery and the converter, but removing that would eliminate being able to use the interior lights. So, I'll just hook up a battery tender and not worry further. 

[pinstriper]

Why don't you install a battery disconnect ? When you go to your RV, you have to switch the battery on, and you have lights. When you leave, open the switch.

I *think* you can manage to keep a trickle charger on the battery through all this, but possibly you'd have to switch between battery on, battery off, battery on charger. So an A/B/C switch (which might be hard to source, but not impossible).

[daplumbr]

Good idea on the disconnect. I've read about that in other threads too but didn't do it yet. Easy enough to install in my new battery box and will be useful all year. 

[pinstriper]

The thing about the disconnect is, you still lose charge. But that's due to inherents in battery chemistry, not a phantom load.

It's less, and it's unavoidable. So you have to account for it and mitigate it.

[jeffrey]

[quote source="/post/5136/thread" timestamp="1416184418" author="@sandroad"] I unplugged the radio and the LP leak detector fuses (both in the main fuse box) and then checked for DC draw. There is a little (I don't have an accurate meter, so I have no specific numbers). In looking at the converter manual, I think it is the source of the remaining DC current draw.
[/quote]Mine was drawing about .2 amps with radio, LP leak detector & ramp lights pulled which isn't acceptable for leaving it in storage with the battery hooked up. Like you I pulled all the fuses and still couldn't get rid of the remaining  2 amp draw. (even the two 30amp fuses)  Good suggestion it might be the converter.  If you can find the wire feeding it you possibly could put a switch somewhere between it and the battery and solve the problem.

 Although that might be a terrible idea cause when you do plug it in and have it switched off at the battery no telling what would happen. I'm almost positive my propane detector is fused at the box anyways.  I'll have to double check that. I want to move the detector. They put it in a high foot traffic area and I've kicked it accidentally once or twice already.  It would be better near the floor underneath the tv on the side of the fridge where there is no foot traffic.