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Messages - stevesanders

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QuickSilver General Q & A / 12v system not working
« on: August 19, 2016, 12:14:55 AM »
Check the ground wiring.  It's the white wire coming out of the converter.  All of the 12 volt circuits connect to that one big white wire.  It's probably a bad connection there.

QuickSilver General Q & A / A new, yet to be owner
« on: August 19, 2016, 12:11:21 AM »
My wife and I love our 2010 6.0, but if the 8.1 had been available when we bought ours, I think I would have gone with it instead.  If just depends on how much "living space" you want.

QuickSilver General Q & A / Air pressures
« on: August 19, 2016, 12:08:12 AM »
Since this discussion thread is in the Quicksilver pop-up camper forum, tire and axle capacity vastly exceeding the load of these particular trailers is not the exception, it is the rule.  The heaviest Quicksilver, the 10.0, weighs in around 1,200 pounds (empty) and is riding on tires that can handle about twice that load.  If we were talking about Camplite or any other line, I would agree that the in-service weight of the trailer is about equal to the max load on the tires and axles, but we are talking about truely light-weight campers here.  I agree that overinflation is safer than underinflation, so if in doubt, go high.

My 6.0 (650 pound empty weight) is riding on tires that can handle 1,050 pounds EACH (at 80 PSI).  The sticker on the tongue says to inflate them to 80 PSI.  If I do that, it bounces like a basketball going down the road!

The first thing you really have to understand is if you have bias ply or radial tires.  If the tire size specification includes the letter "R", then you have radials, if it does not you have bias ply.

If you have bias ply tires, the sidewall profile should look the same all the way around the tire.  If there is any bulge at all at the bottom of the tire, it needs more air.  As long as the bulge is gone, you have at least the minimum to carry the load, but you don't want to operate at minimum.  If you add pressure until the outer edges of the tread start to lift off the ground because the tread is rounding out, then you have too much pressure.  (Overpressure tread edge lifting is much harder to see than underinflation bulge.)  

If you have radial tires, optimal flat contact patch is obtained with a small amount of sidewall bulge where the tire contacts the road, but wear to the edge of the defined tread is still the goal.

On either radial or bias ply tires, look at the wear pattern on the tread after driving a while.  You will be able to see what part of the tread is contacting the ground.  You want the visible contact area to come right to the edge of the tread, but not beyond.  The contact patch of the tread should be flat against the ground, not concave (underinflated) or convex (overinflated).  If you add pressure until the wear pattern no longer reaches the edge of the tread and then lower the pressure until it does, you will be at the correct pressure for the weight of your trailer.  It's likely that one side will be heavier than the other and therefore require more pressure.

QuickSilver General Q & A / Air pressures
« on: August 18, 2016, 11:03:37 AM »
Excellent! Thanks for the charts!!

Many people simply reject the entire concept and insist that max pressure is the only safe option.

QuickSilver General Q & A / Air pressures
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:46:48 AM »
The maximum pressure stated on the sidewall of a tire is only half of the sentence that's really abou the maximum LOAD that the tire can safely support.  It will say something like Max Load 1750 at 80 PSI Max.  The air pressure is what's carrying the load, but the tire structure is what's containing the pressure.

The problem with these trailers that raises so many questions about tire pressure is that they are so much lighter than most trailers.  The typical trailer weighs almost as much as the tires are capable of carrying, so the maximmum pressure is correct.  However, a Quicksilver typically has a loaded weight that's about half of the maximum load rating of the tires.  If you have two tires that can carry a total of 3,500 pounds on a trailer that weighs maybe 1,200 pounds, you don't need maximum pressure because you're nowhere close to maximum load.

So why does the sticker on the trailer tongue say 65 PSI?  The answer is lawyers and legal liability.  It is safer to overinflate than to underinflate, so recommending overinflation reduces litigation risk.  (Think about the Ford Explorer roll-over lawsuits of hte 90's.)  However, as mentioned in another thread in this forum, inflating tires to the MAX pressure will cause these campers to bounce.

I have always maintained 35 PSI in the tires on my QS 6.0.  It rides smooth and the tires wear evenly.

These comments are largely based on training received when I worked in the passenger and trailer tire industry.

QuickSilver Pop Ups / Bouncing when towing?
« on: August 11, 2016, 08:00:10 AM »
Check your tire pressure.  With what you've said about the weight of your camper, put about 35 PSI of air in them.  You want enough pressure to make them maintain proper shape when loaded, but no so much pressure that they can't deform slightly to absorb bumps.

My 6.0 is the third and largest camper that I've owned.  The previous two campers I had could be pulled with my motorcycle.  Initially, I had a lot of problems with the 400 pound motorcycle camper bouncing until I realized that the tires were too "tight", making them bounce like basketballs.

My fully loaded 6.0 probably weighs about the same as your minimally loaded 8.0 annd I've been running 35 PSI in my tires since I bought it in June of 2009.

QuickSilver Pop Ups / Security at campgrounds in a pop Ups!
« on: April 18, 2016, 11:18:32 PM »
I caught a raccoon in the act of stealing our unopened bag of double-stuff Oreos out of our closed Rubbermaid storage container one night.  He got away with the new bag and left us with the old and almost empty bag.  Now the food box stays in the back of the car at night.

QuickSilver General Q & A / Accessory lights/fans not working
« on: March 28, 2016, 12:55:34 AM »
Please keep in mind that wiring colors for 12 volt DC systems in cars and campers are very different from the AC electrical wiring in houses.  In a 120 volt AC system, black is "hot", white is "neutral", and bare wires are ground.  In the 12 volt system, red is typically positive and black is negative, like the battery connection.  HOWEVER, in trailer light wiring and these campers, ground is white and other colors are positive for different circuits.

If you are still having problems, the first thing I would do is to disconnect the battery, just to eliminate it from the situation.  Get the 12 volt system running without the battery and then add the battery back according to the instructions for the power supply in the camper.  As I reccall, there is a separate lead into the power supply for the battery and the battery ground hooks to the same white ground lead.

I have a 2010 6.0 that had problems in the ground wiring.  The power supply is not grounded to the camper, but the 12 volt power outlet under the seat was grounded to the frame, so it didn't work.  When I untaped the wiring, I found that the ground wires from the lighting outlets and the power supply's ground (white lead from the power supply) were all connected together with a wire nut.  I don't like wire nuts on 12 volt systems and I wanted better connections.  So, I reconnected everything with some terminal strips and grounded everything to one ground strip that I added.  Since I wasn't sure if the power supply would tolerate a common ground to the frame, I did not ground it and am still using a floating ground.

I don't have a battery in my 6.0, and based on the fact that the 12 volt electrical system was not grounded to the frame of the camper at the factory, I would check how the negative lead from the battery is connected to the camper.  If it is grounded to the frame, but the power supply is not, that could create a situation where the battery is trying to ground through one circuit that is grounded to the frame which would easily lead to blown fuses.

I don't want to write a novel here, so I'm going to quit.  If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

BTW, I am not an electrician, but I am the son of an Electrical Engineer and I learned a lot from my father.

[quote timestamp="1458533199" source="/post/19738/thread" author="@clyde"][quote timestamp="1458518347" author="@stevesanders" source="/post/19730/thread"]Since the poles are steel, you should be able to have them powder coated.  Spray paint might work, but powder coating is really durable.[/quote]Which requires a full tear down of the poles to be sent out for powder coating.

I think some people are reluctant to do that.,, but powder coating is very durable. It adds some thickness so make sure you tape off the bottom portions of the poles, so they will fit back in the holders when you get em back from the painters. 
[/quote]Although "full teardown" could be one way to desceibe it, there's just one screw on each end of the bimmi poles and some velcro.  I don't think i twould be that difficult.

I would leave the "holders" in place on each end of the bimmis and wrap them with masking tape.  Attaching a tag to each one to identify which location it came from would probably help for reassembly.

QuickSilver Mods / Upgrades / Adding tube to rear of QS 8.0
« on: March 20, 2016, 09:14:31 PM »
Oh... I put mine just in front of the axle.  I thought that would be the least likely location to ever drag the pipe on the ground.  So far, it's never been a problem.

QuickSilver Mods / Upgrades / Adding tube to rear of QS 8.0
« on: March 20, 2016, 09:10:22 PM »
I put a 4 inch PVC pipe under my 6.0 several years ago for the same reason.  I used threaded end caps on both ends and cut the pipe so each cap is even with the side walls.

The part of the threaded cap that glues to the pipe also provided a more sturdy area to attach the pipe to the camper.  I bought a short piece of aluminum angle-stock from a big box store and made two brackets that I attached to the inside of the camper frame.  That provided a flat surface just above the area where the cap glues onto the pipe to bolt the pipe to the bracket.  I put rubber washers on both sides of the plastic pipe to absorb vibration and a fender washer on the inside to spread the load.

It's been under there for at least 5 years now and the only time I remove the tent poles is when I'm using them.  I've never had any problems with it.

Since the poles are steel, you should be able to have them powder coated.  Spray paint might work, but powder coating is really durable.

QuickSilver Mods / Upgrades / PVC Pipe Storage Under QS?
« on: March 16, 2016, 09:38:59 PM »
To attach mine, I attached some small aluminum right angle brackets to the inside of the frame rail on both sides and used bolts with large washers. On the pipe, I drilled the bolt hole through the thickest area where the cap glues onto the pipe. I've never had any problems with materials fatigue or it vibrating loose.


QuickSilver Mods / Upgrades / PVC Pipe Storage Under QS?
« on: March 15, 2016, 11:57:55 PM »
I put a PVC pipe under my 6.0 to store tent poles.  It workes very well.  If you have any specific questions, just let me know.


QuickSilver Mods / Upgrades / Happijac rear couch/bed conversion
« on: March 15, 2016, 01:05:03 AM »
I have a 2010 6.0 that came with the shallow l-shaped benches and table that are supposed to make a bed.  I converted the interior to the current 6.0 design with the couch.  I'm not sure if this is what you are talking about or not.

I ordered the couch and base from Livin' Lite.  (They put it in a camper that was being shipped to a dealer about 2 hours from my home so I could pick it up there.)  All of the original seat bases are just screwed into the camper floor and walls.  The most challenging part is relocating the electrical control box.  Since the couch base is deeper front to back than the original seat bases, this conversion moved the electrical box forward about 6 inches.  I don't recall if I had to replace wiring or if there was enough slack available.  I did take the opportunity to rewire the 12 volt electrical system because I didn't like how the factory did it.

I also ordered the base with a door in the left side that isn't normally there.  I thought it would be convenient access to get to the storage under the couch, but it really isn't that helpful.

I'll be glad to anwer questions and send pictures.  I'm not sure how to add pictures here.


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