Archive - Aluminium Camper Forum

Quote from: @montedtrotter1" source="/post/22900/thread" timestamp="1468187684It took me two applications as I put it on pretty thick. A spray foam company quoted me 900.00 to do it in a closed environment, I chose to do it myself but spraying foam insulation straight up laying on your back is not the easiest thing to do.

From previous posts I can see you do things yourself so I say go for it as it cannot hurt and will help some but not like insulating your home.

Only takes one time of walking on that bare aluminum floor on a cold night to decide something needs to be done.  I cut some Styrofoam panels close enough to size that I was able to stick them up against the walls  and tailgate without any type of fasteners. In my 20x7 vrv.  Also covered the floor with Owens Corning FOAMULAR www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/N-5yc1vZbaxx and carpeted over that. Mostly used that as opposed to styro cause styro compresses from foot traffic much more easily. So no more cold feet. The front of my unit is storage and plumbing and what not. There was no insulation between the interior and the storage compartment but it was easy to add. Again cutting the panels to fit tightly didn't even need to hold them in place with anything. Might of added a couple of pieces of tape for good measure.  The floor was easy, the cabinets and walls were a pain in the ass.  Livinlite could make templates for this and do the job in a fraction of the time, and add it as an option.  That and a white roof if they don't do this yet.  The silver roof may as well be black as well as it absorbs heat from the sun.  Hard to stay cool in sunny locations to say the least.

/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/N-5yc1vZbaxx[attachment id="1565" thumbnail="1"][attachment id="1566" thumbnail="1"][attachment id="1567" thumbnail="1"]

[attachment id="677" thumbnail="1"]Guess most places you wouldn't need it but if your in the southwest where dust devils and  really stiff winds are especially bad.  It can keep your window from being "literally" smashed into the trailer.  Actually had that happen on my 28' Kodiak. Hence the lock.

[quote source="/post/4195/thread" timestamp="1412878476" author="@david"]

The disconnect switch is a great idea. But I am cheap, lazy and dumb- I disconnect the pos battery lead to accomplish the same thing.

David

I did that once with the truck still plugged in.  Bumped the frame with the positive lead.  Think I had to buy a $14 box of fuses to get the one I needed.  Off the top of my head can't think of any reason why you couldn't do the same thing with the negative lead as a precaution. If your disconnected guess it wouldn't matter unless you forget and plug your truck in before reconnecting the lead.[/quote]

[quote timestamp="1425303747" source="/post/7370/thread" author="@surfsup"]Also consider CRC. It's available at almost every auto parts store and hardware centers, it should do the trick..[/quote]Thanks, since that's so easy to obtain I'll probably give it a try.

[quote timestamp="1396521640" source="/post/394/thread" author="@djsamuel"]

Quote from: @pinstriper" timestamp="1396488233" source="/post/388/thread[p]
[/p][p]
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That's the one I keep in my camper. Those things are indestructible!
[/quote]If you have it set to measure amps for which the maximum is 10 and forget it's in this mode and try to measure voltage again. It will cook it.  I've fried quite a few this way.  Fortunately they have sales where their only two bucks. So it's not a big deal when I forget.

[quote source="/post/7286/thread" author="@fasteddieb" timestamp="1425078804"]I just looked and several varieties are available on Amazon.

The typical aviation sources are Aircraft Spruce and Wag Aero.

I you have an airport nearby with much general aviation traffic and a pilot shop, they may carry it as well.[/quote]Thanks, I'll check into it.

[quote source="/post/7283/thread" timestamp="1425075941" author="@tlbones"]When I first got mine I had that happen twice even though I purposely tightened them beforehand.   Luckily no damage.    I added roof vent covers on 2 of them partly because of this happening.




[/quote]I might want to invest in those (vent covers) for when my unit is sitting in the sun and not being used. Sun is brutal and my experience plastic isn't all that uv tolerant.

thing that would worry me on mine are the pipes that drain the gray water tank. 1" UN-insulated and about 6' or so long black plastic of some kind.  Far enough away from the floor to receive no benefit from heating. Especially since I insulated my floor. Doubt heating my unit would help any of my plumbing. Pex lines I don't worry about as much cause they are supposed to be able to expand and contract when they freeze. And experience has born this out for me. So I might be inclined to buy some of that black foam they commonly use on ac lines for the drain pipes.  My experience is the second the temp reaches 32 my hoses outside are frozen. I suspect that is the same with any exposed pex under my unit. Almost certainty the drain plugs for the pex freeze as soon as the temp reaches 32. So there wouldn't be any last minute chance of draining the unit if I decided later I didn't want to chance it.

[quote source="/post/7279/thread" timestamp="1425071635" author="@fasteddieb"]That's too bad.

Instead of WD40, consider something like this, used on aluminum airplanes:


[img src="http://potomac-airfield.com/images/CXAV1x200.jpg"]

In a pinch, I've also used motorcycle chain wax, which seems to have similar anti-corrosion properties.[/quote]Thanks Eddie, can I get it locally or just go to Amazon?

My unit didn't come with one of those cutting board/sink covers which is OK.  I like mine better. Simply take a 1" piece of Styrofoam slightly larger than your sink. Place it over the sink and cut it out with a (cheap flexible) serrated steak knife. Tape off the edges to make it fit tightly. Added 30% to my available counter space for when I'm not washing dishes. I also made a 1" piece of Styrofoam that fits perfectly in my fire escape window in the back. Should come in handy on hot days when the sun is shining in.
Don't know if anyone else has had this happen.  Both front vents rattled open as I drove cross country.  Damaged them slightly.  They no longer open smoothly. My way of dealing attached:


[attachment id="618" thumbnail="1"]

I damaged the fender on my 2015 quicksilver and had to remove a marker light.  Was surprised to see so much corrosion on it already.   Looks like two dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion.  Anyone know how to slow down this process?  Would it be worth my trouble to take off all the covers on my lights and spray them with something like wd-40? Did drive through Colorado and South Dakota a month ago. Might just be from salt on the roads?

[quote source="/post/6527/thread" timestamp="1423173664" author="@vmcmn"]You can get Robertson bits from Snap-on tools,if you can chase down one of their trucks and I think Fastenal also has them. But a #2 square works just fine for me.

[/quote]Thanks for the tip.  Most the screws come out fine with the #2 square but I had a few difficult ones. I pounded on the bit slightly with a hammer to get it to seat a little better and possibly loosen them. And that worked for me. So I'm good now.

[quote source="/post/6352/thread" author="@pinstriper" timestamp="1422758457"]I'm not so much worried about the holding tanks freezing. The stuff that goes down the drain tends to lower the slush point. Think about the salinity of urine and the particulates of pooh. Not that it doesn't freeze, but it freezes colder than plain water. So you've got a few degrees to work with.

If it's that cold, I don't wanna be camping anyhoo.

[/quote]Probably not something you would want to take a chance on though cause once the pipes that drain the tank freeze your pretty much screwed.  If I were to do this I would want to wrap some of that tape they sell that warms pipes around it, than put insulation over that.

[quote source="/post/6407/thread" timestamp="1422825955" author="@surfsup"]Not a cold weather camper here, but if I was going to modify my CL for cold weather camping I would find a good canvas tech to sew up a skirt that would go all the way around the TT and make sure it cinches up near the ground (utilize the stabilizer jacks for that?) Then I'd hang some 100w lights from the frame near the tanks and plumbing. [/quote]Good idea.  I think I've seen a few trailers that used some type of thin plastic like cloth for that purpose.

[quote source="/post/6432/thread" author="@meb" timestamp="1422852053"]

Thanks Antares 4141.  I never used Paint to resize but it worked great.


Here are 3 of the pictures.   Also uploaded to the Pinterest Board.


[/quote]No problem, does work great. I use it all the time.