Archive - Aluminium Camper Forum

[quote timestamp="1481686981" source="/post/26419/thread" author="@pinstriper"]

Quote from: @tinkeringtechie" source="/post/26410/thread" timestamp="1481647442Your axle must be on backwards. Red grease is supposed to be on the right and only turns clockwise. Purple grease goes on the left and only turns counter-clockwise. Boy those LL guys are a bunch of nuts   

In all seriousness though... could it be that one was contaminated and the other not? Rust, water, etc... can make the grease turn different colors.

Whereinthehell have you been ?[/quote]I'm still here... I check the site daily, but you guys do such a good job of answering everyone's questions that I don't usually have much to add 

Your axle must be on backwards. Red grease is supposed to be on the right and only turns clockwise. Purple grease goes on the left and only turns counter-clockwise. Boy those LL guys are a bunch of nuts 

In all seriousness though... could it be that one was contaminated and the other not? Rust, water, etc... can make the grease turn different colors.

Quote from: @marcoe" timestamp="1474903066" source="/post/24975/thread[p]I cleaned our Toy hauler with Chrome Cleaner and now it has streaks all over it. I have tried everything to try and get it out (simple green, WD40, buffing with wax-which did work but after rain it came back!!!, car wash soap, fast orange, comet. Please help!!![/p][p]
[/p]

What specific product did you use? If I remember correctly the "chrome" finish actually has a clear coat, so depending on the product you may have actually etched the paint.

Quote from: @djsamuel" source="/post/25677/thread" timestamp="1478086452I find if I'm out camping the cone becomes noisy if I leave it on the truck and it rains.  After a couple of dry days, it's quiet again.  This is with the original red cone. This seems to support montetrotter's theory regarding rain water.

I had the same thing with our old friction sway bar... if it got wet then it creaked like mad. I'm not sure if the cone material can compensate for that.

Quote from: @david" source="/post/25152/thread" timestamp="1475605316Very, very clever and very illuminating.

Curious, is the car powered. It must be and have just enough speed to keep it all of the way forward against the stop of the treadmill. I am surprised however that it doesn't drop back while doing its swaying turns.

David

It looks like they just tethered the front of the car to the bar at the front of the treadmill. I don't think the car itself is powered.

Here's the best example I've ever seen on how much of a difference tongue weight can make:


[video src="http://i.imgur.com/dYz2tCE.gifv"][/video]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFGX_ILMiCs

So is the "comfort mode" just a tiny tank to supply hot water until the burner gets going?

[quote timestamp="1472586259" author="@gleamb" source="/post/24305/thread"]I wonder why companies like Rinnai are passing up the market for these heaters for RVS. It would be great if " on demand" hot water was standard in all units. We don't leave our cars running 24/7 for the few hours we drive them.[/quote]For the same reason there aren't a bunch of RV manufacturers creating all-aluminum trailers/motorhomes.... most people don't want to pay for it. Rinnai wouldn't be interested unless they could manufacture in high volume and the Truma price is just what low volume manufacturing prices look like.

I've gone through about 20 gallons of propane since we bought the trailer two years ago. At $3/gallon that's a whopping $30/year. At that rate it will only take about 100 years for the Truma to pay for itself. Obviously there are other advantages to the on-demand system (more consistent temperature, longer showers, etc...), but most people would rather have short cold showers and pocket the savings.

[quote source="/post/24284/thread" timestamp="1472512094" author="@brandonboss"]Are you removing all your silicone in sections and replacing it with the proflex? Mineral spirits or denatured rubbing alcohol first then apply the proflex? Does it look any different after applying than the original silicone. I don't really want to replace it all at once if I do.
[/quote]I'm replacing the areas where it's actually coming off or clearly failing and replacing with proflex. I scrape the silicone off, then cleaning with alcohol, and apply proflex. Looks slightly more clear (the stock was slightly cloudy), but a casual observer would never know which was which.

Quote from: @brandonboss" source="/post/24280/thread" timestamp="1472510415[quote timestamp="1472506784" source="/post/24277/thread" author="@tinkeringtechie"]I've never walked, but I've crawled...

Do you have the aluminum roof or the new rubber one? If aluminum then roof sealing should be Dicor lap sealant. If rubber then I'm not sure.

Caulking from the factory is crappy silicone, but I've been slowly replacing with proflex (and planning to never have to touch it again).

Yeah its Aluminum. Does it feel sturdy when your up there? Yeah the silicone on the siding and what not seems to peel very easy. They sure cake on that black sealant on the top around the top lights. Its about 2 inches thick it looks like in places.
[/quote]It feels pretty sturdy. I'm over 200lbs, so that's no small feat. The silicone isn't flexible enough... settling and road movement are enough to break most of the seals. The proflex is more like clear tar that stays put but stays flexible. The lap sealant can get pretty thick, but it shouldn't hurt to have extra. When I replaced my vent I probably put a good 1/2" or so all around it. It's pretty loose when you apply it, so you tend to put more than needed just in case it settles strangely.

[quote timestamp="1472503126" author="@brandonboss" source="/post/24276/thread"]Are these roofs walk-able? May be a dumb question but I assume they are since its all aluminum framed but wanted to be sure first.

Also what caulking and roof sealers would anyone recommend for when I need to reseal the roof and sidewalls. The roof has that thick black sealer and the rest is all clear caulking along the sides of the trailer. Thanks
[/quote]I've never walked, but I've crawled...

Do you have the aluminum roof or the new rubber one? If aluminum then roof sealing should be Dicor lap sealant. If rubber then I'm not sure.

Caulking from the factory is crappy silicone, but I've been slowly replacing with proflex (and planning to never have to touch it again).

Have you tried it out yet? How stable is the temp? Does it fluctuate when someone turns on the sink while the shower is running? Is there a pilot light on all the time or does it spark up every time you turn on the tap?

[quote timestamp="1472095799" author="@billmoore" source="/post/24132/thread"]How much current draw is normal when everything is turned off except for the LP detector (which can't be turned off)? I just checked my trailer at the battery and it is drawing a continuous 450 mA, which seems a bit high to me. No wonder it runs the battery dead in less than a week if I forget to plug it in when I park it in the back yard.

I noticed that it really sparks when I connect/disconnect the negative battery terminal, which is what got me to check with a meter...
[/quote]Do you have a radio? I found that the standby current for my  radio was stupid high (even when "off") so I added a switch to turn it off more (still keeps the memory/settings):

http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/306/radio-power-switch

[quote timestamp="1468553055" source="/post/23037/thread" author="@drake"]Great thread. I'm throwing in a relay to the ac so it will run when I'm on shore power anyway. What a waste of juice when boondocking, anything else like this? [/quote]Let us know how it goes. I never got around to adding the relay because I didn't notice any difference when I just disconnected the heater entirely. We used the fridge non-stop for an entire year and never once had issues with condensation or freezing on the frame.