I guess we should grease the bearings? And change tires from side to side every few thousand miles? Trying to figure out how to jack it up if I need to. My 10.0 sits kinda high. Has anyone done these things?
I repack my bearings every year when I de-winterize. On a single axle trailer you don't usually need to rotate, but it won't hurt either. I'd recommend using a bottle jack beneath the axle bracket (not the axle itself, and not the aluminum frame either). Use some plywood or other flat, stable, stackable material to raise the bottle jack higher if necessary.
Are they radial tires?
If so, I believe you're not supposed to switch sides.
They get a "preference" for direction of rotation, or some such.
Quote from: @fasteddieb" source="/post/3251/thread" timestamp="1409794933Are they radial tires?
If so, I believe you're not supposed to switch sides.
They get a "preference" for direction of rotation, or some such.
I think that only applies to unidirectional radials (where the tread forms a V). I don't think any trailer tires are unidirectional, but better check just in case.
I was under the impression that even with bi-directional radial tires, swapping sides is to be avoided.
I think most tire rotation schemes now just have you rotate front to back on the same side for that reason, rather than the more complicated rotation pattern we used to do.
But I'm open to correction if it's just an old wive's tale!
Quote from: @fasteddieb" source="/post/3254/thread" timestamp="1409798961I was under the impression that even with bi-directional radial tires, swapping sides is to be avoided.
I think most tire rotation schemes now just have you rotate front to back on the same side for that reason, rather than the more complicated rotation pattern we used to do.
But I'm open to correction if it's just an old wive's tale!
I think that was the case with older radials which would "break in" to a certain orientation. Luckily it's not an issue with modern radials. Even unidirectional radials will work backwards, but the tread pattern won't work as effectively.
Good to know.
Most of the sites I found confirmed that.
I've been doing the simple back to front/same side pattern for decades. Maybe time to switch to another pattern when the tires are not marked for direction.
In any case, I stand corrected!
My car always gets cross crossed and then I do front to back and then X again. Seems to work for me. I do it every 5000 miles.
The book I got from LL says to switch sides every 5000 miles but I was wondering if anyone really did it. I guess I will have to buy a bottle jack.
[quote source="/post/3246/thread" timestamp="1409779043" author="@tinkeringtechie"]I repack my bearings every year when I de-winterize. On a single axle trailer you don't usually need to rotate, but it won't hurt either. I'd recommend using a bottle jack beneath the axle bracket (not the axle itself, and not the aluminum frame either). Use some plywood or other flat, stable, stackable material to raise the bottle jack higher if necessary.[/quote][p]I took mine by the Les Schwab and they said jack it up by the axle or even the frame would be fine.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Would love a definitive statement from the vendor (too lazy to dig out the book and look it up).[/p][p]
[/p]
[quote source="/post/3267/thread" timestamp="1409839631" author="@ron10"]The book I got from LL says to switch sides every 5000 miles but I was wondering if anyone really did it. I guess I will have to buy a bottle jack.[/quote][p]What's wrong with the jack in your TV ?[/p][p]
[/p]
[quote source="/post/3269/thread" timestamp="1409841797" author="@pinstriper"][p]I took mine by the Les Schwab and they said jack it up by the axle or even the frame would be fine.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Would love a definitive statement from the vendor (too lazy to dig out the book and look it up).[/p][p]
[/p][/quote]Here's the manual:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/600-8K_Service_Manual/600-8K_Complete_Service_Manual.pdf
and here's the important part:
[attachment id="341" thumbnail="1"]
It must have been the same Les Schwab employee that thought it was okay to jack up my Accord using the bottom of my trunk >:(
[quote source="/post/3270/thread" timestamp="1409841823" author="@pinstriper"][quote source="/post/3267/thread" timestamp="1409839631" author="@ron10"]The book I got from LL says to switch sides every 5000 miles but I was wondering if anyone really did it. I guess I will have to buy a bottle jack.[/quote][p]What's wrong with the jack in your TV ?[/p][p]
[/p][/quote]Nothing if you can make it work. Some vehicles have weird jacks that wouldn't fit. The nice thing about bottle jacks is that they fit just about anywhere. They're pretty cheap too... here's the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000234ISK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't recall ever rotating the tires on my trailer. Honestly though I cant see an advantage to rotating the tires on a single axle lightweight trailer. I imagine the tire becoming unsafe from cracks/dry rot long before any negative effects will be seen from not rotating them.
(http://s10398.storage.proboards.com/5560398/t/rj0ueuBETdFZC2gcs3xh.PNG)
That's weird.
I have always jacked up vehicles and trailers by the axle when able. After all, they're designed to support the vehicle, so why the heck not?
Could they really be that flimsy?
[quote source="/post/3277/thread" timestamp="1409846740" author="@fasteddieb"]
[img src="http://s10398.storage.proboards.com/5560398/t/rj0ueuBETdFZC2gcs3xh.PNG"]
That's weird.
I have always jacked up vehicles and trailers by the axle when able. After all, they're designed to support the vehicle, so why the heck not?
Could they really be that flimsy?[/quote]The torsion type axles (I believe all except a few LL toy haulers use them) are just hollow square tubes. They can dent or collapse if the pressure from the jack isn't distributed evenly. The spindle is solid and could be used as a jack point if you can reach it.
[font size="3"]Good advice here. The Dexter axles cannot take the concentrated pressure of a jack on the axle tubes, especially from a small contact area like a bottle jack. Best to stay under the mounting plates and use something to distribute the force. That said, the frame near the axle attachment point should be able to take the force if the jack is placed to simulate the axle attachments.
[/font]
[quote source="/post/3283/thread" timestamp="1409850772" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]the axle attachment point should be able to take the force if the jack is placed to simulate the axle attachments.
[/font][/quote]That last part is the key... unless your jack has a large face then the force may be too focused. That's why I like to use the axle plate to spread out the force. I usually wedge a piece of wood between the bottle jack and the axle bracket to spread it out even more.
[quote source="/post/3284/thread" timestamp="1409851065" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3283/thread" timestamp="1409850772" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]the axle attachment point should be able to take the force if the jack is placed to simulate the axle attachments.
[/font][/quote]That last part is the key... unless your jack has a large face then the force may be too focused. That's why I like to use the axle plate to spread out the force. I usually wedge a piece of wood between the bottle jack and the axle bracket to spread it out even more.[/quote][font size="3"]Roger that!
[/font]
When I installed the brakes on my 8.1. I jacked mine up using the leveling jacks with a 2x6 pad under each one to give me a little extra lift.Worked just fine,in fact I had it lifted for 2 or 3 days while I worked on running wiring and painting my wheels to match the wheels on my HHR.
[a href="http://s429.photobucket.com/user/HHRnole/media/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg.html"]
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/HHRnole/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg)
As far as greasing the bearings, I would think always a good idea, but be sure to clean excess grease. The guys that installed my electric brakes said a common problem they saw was people greasing way more than needed, and all the excess grease going all over the brakes. You can't just give a few pumps and be done.
I'm no expert but this makes sense to me.
[quote source="/post/3300/thread" timestamp="1409872294" author="@jimandanna"]As far as greasing the bearings, I would think always a good idea, but be sure to clean excess grease. The guys that installed my electric brakes said a common problem they saw was people greasing way more than needed, and all the excess grease going all over the brakes. You can't just give a few pumps and be done.
I'm no expert but this makes sense to me. [/quote]The grease shouldn't be able to get to the brakes unless the rear seal has failed. It's not uncommon, but it's more likely if you keep injecting grease and don't repack (which requires replacing that seal). So while there's no harm in a little bit of extra grease, you should still repack regularly (I do it every year, some people do it every 2 years or by mileage).
[quote source="/post/3298/thread" timestamp="1409870489" author="@vmcmn"]When I did installed the brakes on my 8.1. I jacked mine up using the leveling jacks with a 2x6 pad under each one to give me a little extra lift.Worked just fine,in fact I had it lifted for 2 or 3 days while I worked on running wiring and painting my wheels to match the wheels on my HHR.
[a href="http://s429.photobucket.com/user/HHRnole/media/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg.html"]
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/HHRnole/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg)This is probably harmless on the smaller QS models, but larger QS models or camplites definitely shouldn't lift the camper with the stabilizers.
[quote source="/post/3305/thread" timestamp="1409873650" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3298/thread" timestamp="1409870489" author="@vmcmn"]When I did installed the brakes on my 8.1. I jacked mine up using the leveling jacks with a 2x6 pad under each one to give me a little extra lift.Worked just fine,in fact I had it lifted for 2 or 3 days while I worked on running wiring and painting my wheels to match the wheels on my HHR.
[a href="http://s429.photobucket.com/user/HHRnole/media/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg.html"]
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/HHRnole/DSCF1832_zps0927fa12.jpg)
Guess I'm the stupid one.............
I read the Camplite owner's manual, and it warns to not use the jacks for leveling as you can damage your unit. Something about the frame. I haven't read the manual for Quicksilver, so I don't know how those jacks work. Some of the Camplites have scissor jacks.
It would be nice if someone post picture to show where are the safe point to jack the camplite
[quote source="/post/3312/thread" timestamp="1409926391" author="@paul"]It would be nice if someone post picture to show where are the safe point to jack the camplite[/quote]Here you go:
[attachment id="342" thumbnail="1"]
It's okay to jack on the bracket next to the axle, but don't use the axle itself.
[quote source="/post/3317/thread" timestamp="1409935584" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3312/thread" timestamp="1409926391" author="@paul"]It would be nice if someone post picture to show where are the safe point to jack the camplite[/quote]Here you go:
It's okay to jack on the bracket next to the axle, but don't use the axle itself.[/quote]
Thank you! Is there enought space there for a regular jack or just for a bottle jack? doesn't seem to have a lot of room. Just wondering because when I had a tent trailer I went to get my tire changed they had does big jack used for car.
It's about two inches wide, so some jacks might fit there... definitely not a floor jack though. Most bottle jacks should be fine.
[quote source="/post/3319/thread" timestamp="1409935940" author="@tinkeringtechie"]It's about two inches wide, so some jacks might fit there... definitely not a floor jack though. Most bottle jacks should be fine.[/quote]
Ok thank you for confirming this, do you think there would be a safe spot for a floor jack ? Or would it be a no do not use ?
[quote source="/post/3320/thread" timestamp="1409936060" author="@paul"][quote source="/post/3319/thread" timestamp="1409935940" author="@tinkeringtechie"]It's about two inches wide, so some jacks might fit there... definitely not a floor jack though. Most bottle jacks should be fine.[/quote]Ok thank you for confirming this, do you think there would be a safe spot for a floor jack ? Or would it be a no do not use ?[/quote]If you put something between the floor jack and the frame (like a 4x4 piece of wood) then it would probably have enough surface area to work without risk of damage. Just try to put it as close to the axle as possible since that's where the frame is used to bearing weight.
[quote source="/post/3321/thread" timestamp="1409936423" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3320/thread" timestamp="1409936060" author="@paul"]Ok thank you for confirming this, do you think there would be a safe spot for a floor jack ? Or would it be a no do not use ?[/quote]If you put something between the floor jack and the frame (like a 4x4 piece of wood) then it would probably have enough surface area to work without risk of damage. Just try to put it as close to the axle as possible since that's where the frame is used to bearing weight.[/quote]Ok thank you, and if I want to "block" my camper to remove both wheels what would be your approach to do it securely? I know it's a lot of question but I want to be prepared in case I have to do it lol
Someone posted with a question if my TV has a jack? I don't know what he means by TV. Does my 10.0 come with some kind of a jack since it does have a spare tire? Now who is the dumb one, lol.
[quote source="/post/3323/thread" timestamp="1409937544" author="@paul"][quote source="/post/3321/thread" timestamp="1409936423" author="@tinkeringtechie"]If you put something between the floor jack and the frame (like a 4x4 piece of wood) then it would probably have enough surface area to work without risk of damage. Just try to put it as close to the axle as possible since that's where the frame is used to bearing weight.[/quote]Ok thank you, and if I want to "block" my camper to remove both wheels what would be your approach to do it securely? I know it's a lot of question but I want to be prepared in case I have to do it lol
[/quote]Do the same 4x4 trick with a jack stand. I also prefer to keep my vehicle attached when I'm jacking up the trailer and taking off wheels since it seems more stable than the tongue jack.
[quote source="/post/3325/thread" timestamp="1409937929" author="@ron10"]Someone posted with a question if my TV has a jack? I don't know what he means by TV. Does my 10.0 come with some kind of a jack since it does have a spare tire? Now who is the dumb one, lol.[/quote]
TV means Towing Vehicule, so he is talking about the jack of is car
[quote source="/post/3325/thread" timestamp="1409937929" author="@ron10"]Someone posted with a question if my TV has a jack? I don't know what he means by TV. Does my 10.0 come with some kind of a jack since it does have a spare tire? Now who is the dumb one, lol.[/quote]TV = Tow Vehicle. Your car should have a jack and it may also work for the trailer.
Thanks guys.
[quote source="/post/3274/thread" timestamp="1409843799" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3270/thread" timestamp="1409841823" author="@pinstriper"][p]What's wrong with the jack in your TV ?[/p][p]
[/p][/quote]Nothing if you can make it work. Some vehicles have weird jacks that wouldn't fit. The nice thing about bottle jacks is that they fit just about anywhere. They're pretty cheap too... here's the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000234ISK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/quote][p]I live a sheltered life in which every vehicle I've bought since the Reagan Administration came with a bottle jack. The last one before then was a scissors jack, which would also do nicely.[/p][p]
[/p]
[quote source="/post/3279/thread" timestamp="1409847800" author="@tinkeringtechie"]
The torsion type axles (I believe all except a few LL toy haulers use them) are just hollow square tubes. They can dent or collapse if the pressure from the jack isn't distributed evenly. The spindle is solid and could be used as a jack point if you can reach it.[/quote]
Thanks for the head's up.
I very well might have looked at that axle and assumed it was OK to jack there.
I'm about to order a pair of the Anderson Levelers, and one will probably be my "jack" of choice for routine tire changes.
Obviously not a solution for single-axle trailers.
[quote source="/post/3304/thread" timestamp="1409873514" author="@tinkeringtechie"]The grease shouldn't be able to get to the brakes unless the rear seal has failed. It's not uncommon, but it's more likely if you keep injecting grease and don't repack (which requires replacing that seal). So while there's no harm in a little bit of extra grease, you should still repack regularly (I do it every year, some people do it every 2 years or by mileage).[/quote]I was just going to ask about it - I pumped in fresh grease recently 1 month and 2000 miles ago. I pumped enough into each side to see the fresh grease come out - this took two small grease cartridges per side.
Well, I just noticed that one wheel is very dirty on the inside with a lot of grease reside mixed with sand all over the inside of the hub.
Is this the real seal that failed? what is the repair procedure?
This brings a question - we dont need to grease car wheel bearings. Why?
Just make sure if you replace the seal that you replace it with a double lip seal.You can tell if it is a double lip seal by looking on the inside of the seal for the spring,also a metal housing and a 'Y' shaped lip.A single lip seal will not hold the pressure that a double lipped one will. As far as the wheel bearings on cars it depends on if you are talking about old cars or new ones. Most newer cars use a bearing hub assy. where the bearings are part of the hub and not serviceable.When they go out you must replace the whole assy. As far as your seal failing I know what you mean,I found the same problem when I went to install the brakes on my QS 8.1 and found that the stock hub only had a single lip seal installed which didn't hold the pressure of the new grease being pumped in when I serviced it.Don't know why Dexter would put a singe lip seal on an EZ lube axle knowing that it would not hold the pressure ???
[quote source="/post/3349/thread" timestamp="1410033026" author="@gregcolumbus"][quote source="/post/3304/thread" timestamp="1409873514" author="@tinkeringtechie"]The grease shouldn't be able to get to the brakes unless the rear seal has failed. It's not uncommon, but it's more likely if you keep injecting grease and don't repack (which requires replacing that seal). So while there's no harm in a little bit of extra grease, you should still repack regularly (I do it every year, some people do it every 2 years or by mileage).[/quote]I was just going to ask about it - I pumped in fresh grease recently 1 month and 2000 miles ago. I pumped enough into each side to see the fresh grease come out - this took two small grease cartridges per side.
Well, I just noticed that one wheel is very dirty on the inside with a lot of grease reside mixed with sand all over the inside of the hub.
Is this the real seal that failed? what is the repair procedure?
This brings a question - we dont need to grease car wheel bearings. Why?[/quote]Sounds like the rear seal is leaking. The repair procedure is pretty simple. Just follow the normal bearing repacking procedure (which includes replacing that seal) and also spray some brake pad cleaner on your pads since they're almost certainly contaminated with grease.
Why don't car bearings need it? I'm not exactly sure... I know car bearings need to be replaced after 150k miles or so, but I'm not sure why the same couldn't be applied to trailers. Maybe because trailers still use drum brakes?
oh Camplite owners :) We QS owners are not afforded the luxury of brakes in our trailers, well, I suppose it was an optional upgrade but I dont have it - I got my camper used. I am planning to instal the brakes later this year. Yes, I dont absolutely need them, but I will feel more secure with shorter braking distance.
Thanks for the info! I will find the seals.
Is this something that needs to be done right away? That is: is it only the excess grease that got squeezed out when I pumped?
I only have the 10.0 but i did not think i needed breaks for it.
I only have the 10.0 but i did not think i needed breaks for it.
I have to ask, where is the grease fittings located? Behind the wheel? Do you have to take the wheel off to get to it.
Ron
Here Ron I found this on the Yahoo group,Hope it helps
https://xa.yimg.com/df/livinlite/QS+Dexter+axle+lubrication+maintenance+.pdf?token=OufHsqhNiMJJMOLaqdCBAQhYpLpVSNs8D4-KCAjNpT4Zbz-s0ddtiG5j8J7H_pZ1Ot6arAsJLJt15QUCwKTRfIYUQOfBIpp-pUmdRzXSdm6X8pUfCQvFhxNsBXK6ULnemWjpAb3YKYxiaF5LPRayoP1C1L4&type=download
There were several nice files that RSDATA made and put on the Yahoo site. Is there a place here that we could also store such useful files? Attachments have a max size of 1MB which is too small for picture heavy PDFs.
Thanks VMCMN and everyone here for your help. Your link did not open but I found it on the Yahoo Livin Lite site. Very good info there.