I'm totally new to this, but will (hopefully) be picking up a 21BHS in a couple weeks.
We recently bought a 2011 Ford Flex with EcoBoost and factory tow package to use as a tow vehicle:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/12195173754_21b9c4c691.jpg)
We need to finalize our hitch decision.
The dealer recommended a Reese.
The fellow at CanAm recommended an EAZ-Lift Elite, with a Husky sway control.
The lady at the dealer said that was a bad choice, since it was bolt-on and drilling/bolting into the aluminum frame was a bad idea.
She recommended the EAZ-Lift "Trekker", which has built-in sway control.
But someone on the Airforums Airstream site did not have much good to say about the Trekker.
Any input at all would be appreciated - I hate to over-think this, but want to make an informed decision.
Thanks in advance!
BTW, the "Preview" button doesn't seem to do anything in Safari on a MacBook Pro.
I've heard good things about the fastway e2 (and just purchased one myself). No drilling necessary. I'll report back once I get a chance to try it out.
Do you have the Class II or Class III towing package?
According to [a href="http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/11FLMRVTT_FlexNov18.pdf"]this pdf[/a] from ford you'll need the Class III. But that document also indicates that the GVWR is 500lbs over your limit and the frontal area is significantly over your 35sqft limit. It might still be possible if you pack light and drive slowly, but it's definitely pushing the limits.
Well, I assumed I had the Class III.
Silly question: How can I tell?
I do have a Ford dealer nearby. I also have the car outside and can look, if I knew what to look for. I do have the seven pin connector and have had a Teknosha Voyager installed already.
With the Class III hitch the maximum tow limit is 4,500 lbs and maximum tongue weight of 450 lbs., so again I assumed we'd be well within limits.
So much to learn!
That was too easy:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/13155576495_3c9e202d4a.jpg)I'm not seeing that. How do you arrive at that? This same EcoBoost engine is towing far heavier trailers in Ford pickups.
There should be a sticker on the hitch (or maybe inside the door) that shows the tow capacity (both with WDH and without).
The 21BHS "dry" weight is 3,499. That gives you 1,001 until you hit your limit. Subtract:
80lbs for two propane tanks
50lbs for one battery
75lbs for A/C (assuming you ordered that option)
244lbs for a load of water
112lbs for a 1/2 full black tank
Suddenly you're 440lbs away from your limit and you haven't put anything inside the trailer yet.
So it's still possible, but it will be close. Also keep in mind that the dry weight is an estimate, so you won't know what your's weighs until you get it.
Looks like you found your rating while I was responding. I don't think the engine is the limitation, it's most likely the transmission and structure. Trucks use body on frame construction vs the unibody in your flex. Trucks also use high rear-end gear ratios to increase torque multiplication
[quote source="/post/150/thread" timestamp="1394836686" author="@fasteddieb"]
QuoteBut that document also indicates that the GVWR is 500lbs over your limit...
I'm not seeing that. How do you arrive at that? This same EcoBoost engine is towing far heavier trailers in Ford pickups.[/quote]The 500lb number is based of the GVWR. According to the camplite website, the GVWR for the 21BHS is 5,000 lbs, which is 500lbs over your 4,500lb limit.
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]FWIW each axle on my 2014 21RBS built 10/2013 is rated at #3500. The trailer label actually says GVWR = #7000. I think the catalog is out of date. However, nothing says you have to load the trailer to it's GVWR. The critical ratings on the TV are Gross Combined Weight Rating, Payload Capacity, and Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. On my 21RBS with two 6V golf cart batteries and two full #20 propane bottles on the tongue, and loaded for camping (no water except WH) I measure #525 tongue weight.
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[quote source="/post/154/thread" timestamp="1394840178" author="@charliem"][font size="3"][font face="arial"]FWIW each axle on my 2014 21RBS built 10/2013 is rated at #3500. The trailer label actually says GVWR = #7000
[/font][/font][/quote]Interesting... does the label also say the actual dry weight?
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]No! For some reason LL does not record the as built weight. At least they don't disclose it. The only thing I have to go on is the shipping invoice which listed the shipping weight at #3500. However, that may be an average or something else not specific to my trailer. I asked LL about this, but never got a reply.
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That's curious... I can't imagine it's exactly 3500.
Your point about the GCW is a good one too, I'm not sure what it is for the Ford Flex (it's not in that handy pdf).
"That's curious... I can't imagine it's exactly 3500" [font face="arial" size="3"]Ya think?
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[quote source="/post/151/thread" timestamp="1394837471" author="@tinkeringtechie"]
The 21BHS "dry" weight is 3,499. That gives you 1,001 until you hit your limit. Subtract:
[/quote]
D'oh!
My "mistake" was figuring a HALF TON would give me plenty of leeway. :P
I suppose I don't have to "tanker" a bunch of water (or poop) and can try to keep heavier items in the back of the Flex.
For background, I used to teach Weight and Balance to Commercial Pilot applicants at the Junior College level. Just putting it out there to emphasize I'm pretty cognizant of how important weight limitations are, and do not take them lightly.
It adds up pretty quickly. Bringing water is essential for those of us that boondock. If that's not your thing, then you'll be able to bring 244lbs more stuff. As for the black tank weight, you really shouldn't empty it until you reach 2/3's, which is why I calculated a 1/2 tank. Moving items to the back of the Flex won't change your GCW. As I said from the beginning, it's possible but just be careful. I'd take a trip to the scales once you get it loaded.
When I called Island RV to specify the EAZ-Lift Elite, they cautioned it wad a bolt-on design, requiring drilling of the aluminum frame, which they thought a bad idea.
They said EAZ-Lift made a clamp-on style with built-in sway control called the "Trekker". Searching for it on Airforums showed maybe one opinion of it, and it wasn't positive.
Thoughts?
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]I recommend the 6000/600 E2 WDH by Fastway. [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Weight distribution and sway control. [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Bolts on, no drilling. [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Very popular with small trailer owners. I've used it with two trailers and two TVs and still using it. A bit noisy, but then I know it's working.
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Thanks, Charlie.
Andy at CanAm responded to my query thusly:
Hi Eddie
I think they must be talking about the plate for the sway control which bolts on to the A frame. . I have bolted Eaz-Lift sway control plates to aluminum frames before without a problem. You have to be sure you are not drilling into the top or bottom flanges of the frame. Just into the center portion. Usually aluminum frames are 4-5" tall, do you know the size of this one?
The snap-ups for the Elite sit over the top of the frame and just tighten against the inside of the frame, you can put a small plate between the end of the bolt and the aluminum to stop it from wearing in but even that is not generally a problem.
The Trekker is not the right hitch for you because the torsion bars have less travel than the Elite bars.
For now, I'm back to the EAZ-Lift Elite for WD, and the Husky for sway control. Good news is that Husky sells a clamp-on ball so that no drilling is required.
If you like EAZ-lift, why not use their sway control?:
[a href="http://www.rvupgradestore.com/DELUXE-SWAY-CONTROL-p/98-2000.htm"]http://www.rvupgradestore.com/DELUXE-SWAY-CONTROL-p/98-2000.htm[/a]
It looks like they also have a clamp on ball:
[a href="http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Camco-Eaz-Lift-Sway-Control-Adapter-Kit-2-x-3-p/98-2004.htm"]http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Camco-Eaz-Lift-Sway-Control-Adapter-Kit-2-x-3-p/98-2004.htm
[/a]If you add it all up, it costs about the same as just getting a combination WDH/sway control hitch like the E2.
Andy from CanAm said he preferred the Husky over the EAZ-Lift for sway control.
Knowing virtually nothing about these things, I'm just taking his advice for now.
But thanks for all the feedback as I venture into new waters!
[p]Here is a lively discussion on your topic:[/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24819884.cfm"]http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24819884.cfm[/a][/p][p]
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[p]I think this video shows that at least the Propride does not require drilling. In fact, it looks like it was mounted under the propane tanks.[/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="http://www.propridehitch.com/products/ProPride-3P-Trailer-Sway-Control-Hitch-.html"]http://www.propridehitch.com/products/ProPride-3P-Trailer-Sway-Control-Hitch-.html[/a][/p][p]
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At $2,345 it better drive the car for me and wash my dishes too. :D
Eddie, I am impressed that you can tow the 21bhs with the Flex that is rated at 4500lbs and 450 tw. Do you have the 3.6 Eco boost engine and four wheel drive?
My Explorer, which has the standard V6 engine, front wheel drive and is rated at 5000lbs and 500 tw is one of the worst tow vehicles I have had. I am thinking about getting the Explorer Sport which has the V6 Eco boost engine and all wheel drive.
Yes, we specifically limited our search to EcoBoost Flex's with AWD, factory tow package and 7-place seating.
I've never used a w/d hitch before, nor towed anything bigger than a utility trailer, so I really have no grounds for comparison. But the rig felt fine towing back from IL even with my setup a little off. Has felt fine on the two local trips, to Hiawassee and the dealer in Buford, though on the trip to Hiawassee I overdid the w/d and got a harsh, jouncy ride. Fixed by "hanging" one less link. (See my "Picking up..." thread for details).
Power has not been an issue, either on the long uphill grades of I-75 in TN or the shorter/steeper hills here in the GA mountains.
Most times I just click the transmission down onto "Grade Assist" and it happily keeps the rpm up both uphill for power and downhill for braking. On I-75 I did go into Manual mode - the EcoBoost models sport paddle shifters, another plus - and they seem to work quite well. Let me hold the transmission in fifth for the uphill grades, then into sixth for downhills where engine braking was not needed.
In any case, we plan a trip to some CAT scales in the near future to get an idea of where we are now, both in total trailer weight and tongue weight, and overall w/d. Many at the Airstream rally told us not to sweat it too much once we got the rig feeling right, which it does now.
Oh, and if I haven't already asked, where are you located?