I'd like to add an additional electrical outlet to the other bunk end of my 8.0 (the A/C outlet is at one bunk end and there's none at the other end). Has anyone done this? How hard would it be?
Also was wondering if anyone has installed an outlet on the OUTSIDE of their camper. How hard would THAT be?
Pictures or videos are a plus!
Adding outlets to a trailer is not really different from doing it for your house.
You may be able to go from one end to the other end of your bunk inside your trailer. So install a plastic outlet box using an "old work" box that supports the box with ears that pull into the wall board (Azdel). Run a piece of 14 gauge (if it is served by a 15 amp breaker, otherwise 12 gauge) 2 conductor plus ground Romex type wire between the two outlets and wire them together.
You can buy an outdoor outlet that has a flip down door that keeps water out and install it the same way on the outside of the trailer. Find an interior outlet nearby that you can tie into by going down below the floor and back up. It will take some ingenuity and a wire snake but it can be done. Or you can run the wire underneath and then back up to the 120V breaker in the converter. You will need a GFCI receptacle for outdoor use. Those outdoor outlets probably won't keep water out at 60 mph in a rain storm, so be careful if you go through one. Open up the outlet, pull the receptacle out and blow any accumulated water out first. There are better waterproof outlets available than the standard home types. This one looks pretty good- https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-WP1230C-8-Inch-Weatherproof-Clear/dp/B0039ZCUMY/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469545091&sr=1-11&keywords=waterproof+outdoor+outlet+cover
David
The problem you are going to run into with the QS is that the walls are not thick enough for a standard outlet box. The concept is not difficult and the standard electrical converter should have an extra 120v circuit slot available, but you'll need to find a low profile box that will fit the wall. I have not specifically measured but I'm sure you are dealing with 2 inches or less.
Rather than dealing with permanently mounting an outlet in such a thin wall I would suggest considering a more flexible solution. If you used an extension cord you could run it around the inside of the camper while tucking it out of the way, then using a power strip or smaller splitter you could have an outlet at the far side. The extension cord could be modified to be permanently hard wired into its own circuit, or you could wire in an outlet behind the converter which the cord plugs into. I see the extension cord idea as an advantage b/c it can be used anywhere power is needed, rather than having an outlet which you then have to run a cord from anyways. Just an idea.
As for an exterior outlet you will face the same issues with wall thickness. I could see using the bench in the 10.0 to overcome this wall issue for both interior and exterior outlets, but if I recall the 8.0 only has removable seats. If you planned to leave the seats in place permanently I could see using a bit of the storage area to allow for the extra room needed but you would have to make sure the seats are screwed down. You could then mount a box facing the interior and a box facing the exterior, both boxes could be wired into the same circuit. Having the interior protected with GFCI would not hurt anything so there is no down side there.
All in all you have options. How confident are you working with electrical wiring?
I've observed and assisted on many household projects over the years but have never done any electrical solo. Hubby and I generally team up on DIY projects with mostly positive results (you probably shouldn't ask me to do any tile work for you...). When it comes to electrical stuff I always have my dad to turn to, who, at 83, still helps with any project involving wiring. He spent his entire career as an electrical engineer and knows a thing or two.
I see your point about the extension cord. That would work as long as it was hard wired or plugged into its own box under the galley. I obviously wouldn't want to take up an existing outlet with an extension cord.
I spent some time the other day covering all the wire mess the dealer left behind after the converter replacement. I couldn't believe they left every wire exposed and sticking up every which way when the entire converter sits DIRECTLY under the sink and all the plumbing! I got some flexible black plastic tubing to tuck the wires into to protect them from any dripping. I also bought a slot cover and snapped it in over the opening they left next to the 2 new breakers.
I removed one of the bench seats today to make room for the dorm fridge. One bench is plenty for the two of us and having a permanent space for the fridge is more important. The second outlet (or extension cord) would be mainly for the refrigerator. Would tying that into an existing circuit be suitable or would you suggest giving it its own?
A dorm fridge only draws an amp or two, so you should be fine if you want to tie the new outlet into the existing one that has at least a 15 amp capacity.
David
Yeah I agree, if you are only really looking to power the dorm fridge then splicing it into an existing circuit would be fine. Though honestly it may be just as easy to throw a breaking into that open slot in the power converter and give it its own circuit. Its just a matter of preference at this point.