Spent a couple nights in my 14XLP this weekend and it was the first time in Missouri heat/humidity. The air conditioning unit was a fail and as I've seen mentioned a couple of times, I think it's due to the fact that they moved the A/C to an inside installation yet it's still a regular window unit that needs to hang 1/2 out for air intake/ventilation/condensation removal. I took the unit out (which is also a stupid design in the fact that you have to remove the entire cabinet to get the a/c unit out) and the bottom of the a/c was full of water that couldn't escape. Soo -- for those of you with older models - does the old installation with the outside door and sliding tray work well? My old pop-up with a roof unit would freeze you out so I know even though it's a tent, it's possible to keep it cool inside. Just trying to figure out where i want to go from here. If the old installation method works, then maybe I can get a kit with a door and mounting frame.
thanks!
upon a few tries, the AC hasn't impressed me much in our QS10. It's sort of in the wrong spot to benefit from convection. Fans helped to send warm air it's way, cool air up. I still wonder if the popup Gizmo might be worth it..
[quote source="/post/22122/thread" author="@m0brando" timestamp="1465831637"] I took the unit out (which is also a stupid design in the fact that you have to remove the entire cabinet to get the a/c unit out) and the bottom of the a/c was full of water that couldn't escape.
[/quote]This lack of condensate drain is part of the design. That water is intended to splash on the coil to increase efficiency through evaporation.
I have a 16DB but would like to share that my AC is side mounted. It is installed in a cabinet that resembles a window opening. The unit does not protrude from the side of the trailer. The opening on the outside is just a flush vent with no drain. This works very well. AC units do not need to be sticking half way out the opening.
There is more to your problem than this... Getting great reductions in humidity and temperature in a tent structure is going to be more difficult than a hard sided trailer or home.
[quote source="/post/22125/thread" author="@whoofit" timestamp="1465841392"][quote source="/post/22122/thread" author="@m0brando" timestamp="1465831637"]
[/quote]
There is more to your problem than this... Getting great reductions in humidity and temperature in a tent structure is going to be more difficult than a hard sided trailer or home.
[/quote]
Very true but in the middle of the night when it's 73 outside and still 80 in the camper and the sheets are moist, something isn't right. This was with fans sitting in front of the unit to blow air to each end. I'm not an A/C tech by any means but I can't imagine that it's supposed to be pooling water in the bottom to be grabbed by the fan and sent as a mist out the top of the unit. LL has a tray underneath the unit but the water doesn't work it's way through the a/c drain to the tray.
Anyway - just wondered if anyone else had success and it sounds like at least one is happy. Humidity is the challenge of any a/c unit and I just don't think the current design is setup to address it. Or I have a bad a/c unit but it's an 8000 btu that blows cold when you sit in front of it. Again my 5000 btu roof unit in the old 13' pop-up would freeze me out -- so I know it's possible to keep a small canvas space cool. I just have to find the best way to do it.
[quote timestamp="1465843954" source="/post/22126/thread" author="@m0brando"][quote timestamp="1465841392" source="/post/22125/thread" author="@whoofit"]There is more to your problem than this... Getting great reductions in humidity and temperature in a tent structure is going to be more difficult than a hard sided trailer or home.
[/quote]I'm not an A/C tech by any means but I can't imagine that it's supposed to be pooling water in the bottom to be grabbed by the fan and sent as a mist out the top of the unit. LL has a tray underneath the unit but the water doesn't work it's way through the a/c drain to the tray.
[/quote]Of the several window AC units I've purchased in the last decade I have not had one that was designed to "drain". They are designed to evaporate the condensate. Only my mini-split heat pump/AC units have drains because the evaporator and condenser coil are separated by many meters of copper tubing.
Are you saying above that your unit is misting into the trailer? Spraying out the unit's vents?
Like I said, there is more to your problem, maybe a bad AC unit, but the problem is not the mounting method. Might be location but I doubt it.
What is the difference between your intake and outlet temperatures? From your description above with an outdoor T being lower than your indoor T with zero solar gain I would think you would want to measure this as it is suggesting your AC is kaput...
I have the 10.0 and my AC has worked as well as could be expected. We maxed it out on a trip to Florida in July one year. It kept up with the temps and humidity most of the day with the help of a box fan for circulation. The only time it just could keep up was between noon and two when it was in full direct sun.
Even with if it was a poor placement, the performance sounds like a problem with the unit. I think woofit is right.
I've sent Brando several messages last night about his problem. I'm writing this just in case someone else finds this thread with the same issue.
His problem is in the way livin lite installed the AC. The AC works perfectly, however it can't cool its outside coils with outside air boxed up. All quicksilver campers with boxed in ACs that can't slide out are that way. The outside part of the AC only has access to the air inside the camper. Which causes the AC to suck the inside camper air in the box and blow it outside. This also causes the inside camper air to be replaced with outside hot air. It's impossible for it to cool.
Livin lite knows this and has a kit you can buy to allow the AC to stick out of the camper.
I didn't know that at the time so made some major modification to my AC box. I cut the floor of the camper out from under the AC box. Now the camper can breath using the air under the camper, and it actually gets cool if parked in shade.
I'm experimenting with direct sun with reflective tarps today. I'll report later to tell you how it goes.
So you are saying the AC install omits the function of the white roof vent that is in this picture of my flush side mounted AC and that you cut one in under the floor of your camper.
[img style="" style="max-width:100%;" src="http://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t521/minuteman1965/13587686-5b72-4d43-a764-d29d5b37b28b_zpsqb8md7u1.jpg"]
This is an impressive feat of engineering on LL's part. Great stuff there! This is the last time I will assume LL has got it going on in even the most basic of things.
Yes, plus they used so much silicone around the AC and white AC cover there was no way any air could make it in from the outside.
To be clear I'm just speaking about quicksilver campers. Maybe they did something different with the hard sided campers.
https://vimeo.com/170643565
To sum up video:
1. If AC installed properly works awesome at night. My AC was not installed properly so I cut out floor under AC to let it breath. Didn't show it in video but I added AC window foam insulation to front of AC to keep the AC from pulling air from inside of camper and blowing it outside.
2. If parked in shaded spot it will keep camper cool also.
3. In direct sun you will need a lot of reflective tarp to keep almost cool. Better than sitting outside with no shade.
4. Today's results: 105 outside temps in direct sun. 84 inside with AC, fan, gizmo, and reflective tarps on south side. Outside Temps 85 in shade but more humid than inside camper.
This is with camper closed up. If my family were running in and out of it, there's no way it could even come close to cooling.
This camper is great for mountains and Forrest campsites in the shade. I have learned to plan my vacations where the good weather is located. For example northern Michigan this time of year is awesome. We just got back from tubbing in Sleeping Bear National lake shore. Cool temps, sand dunes, crystal clear water were awesome.
It's at its best in travel mode getting 20mpg at 70 mph. This is one of the best long distance campers you can get. You can afford to spend some money when you get to where you are going.
[quote source="/post/22133/thread" timestamp="1465905087" author="@kybrowns"]I've sent Brando several messages last night about his problem. I'm writing this just in case someone else finds this thread with the same issue.
His problem is in the way livin lite installed the AC. The AC works perfectly, however it can't coil its outside coils with outside air boxed up. All quicksilver campers with boxed in ACs that can't slide out are that way. The outside part of the AC only has access to the air inside the camper. Which causes the AC to suck the inside camper air in the box and blow it outside. This also causes the inside camper air to be replaced with outside hot air. It's impossible for it to cool.
Livin lite knows this and has a kit you can buy to allow the AC to stick out of the camper.
I didn't know that at the time so made some major modification to my AC box. I cut the floor of the camper out from under the AC box. Now the camper can breath using the air under the camper, and it actually gets cool if parked in shade.
I'm experimenting with direct sun with reflective tarps today. I'll report later to tell you how it goes.
[/quote]Thanks for understanding the problem and all the info. Small update -- I contacted Livin' Lite and was contacted back by Don, the warranty manager. He sent me a pdf of a service bulletin from 2012 that basically has you drill holes in the sidewalls of the camper to add screened vents (think clothes dryer vents). I asked about parts to convert it to the new style that sticks out and he didn't offer any suggestions. I don't really want to cut holes in the side to rig up vents so I think my next attempt will be to contact the parts dept at a dealer and see what they have to say.
This make me glad I have the slide out version for the AC. Plus I've always liked the fact that with the slide out version it makes for a nice clean side when closed up...
This is such a foreign problem for me. I have a QS 6.0 with a fixed AC. I was currently in midPennsylvania last week. The temp was 93 and camper was 74. Not in a shaded area. A small fan was adequate to blow the cool air around the unit. It may be that the smaller size of the QS 6.0 adapts well to the 5,000 btu output. I used in earlier out in the Utah desert at over 95 degrees and kept comfortable.
Michael
[quote source="/post/22151/thread" author="@mjmoore17" timestamp="1465941000"]This is such a foreign problem for me. I have a QS 6.0 with a fixed AC. I was currently in midPennsylvania last week. The temp was 93 and camper was 74. Not in a shaded area. A small fan was adequate to blow the cool air around the unit. It may be that the smaller size of the QS 6.0 adapts well to the 5,000 btu output. I used in earlier out in the Utah desert at over 95 degrees and kept comfortable.
Michael
[/quote]I'm sure the smaller camper has something to do with it but at the same time can you tell me if your unit sticks out of the side of the camper about 4-6"? From your picture it looks like it might. For those that have a newer unit that is fixed but sticks out the side, if you could post any pictures of the outside and inside mounting that would be helpful as I try to piece this together.
[quote source="/post/22145/thread" timestamp="1465934133" author="@m0brando"]
Quote from: @kybrowns" source="/post/22133/thread" timestamp="1465905087I've sent Brando several messages last night about his problem. I'm writing this just in case someone else finds this thread with the same issue.
His problem is in the way livin lite installed the AC. The AC works perfectly, however it can't coil its outside coils with outside air boxed up. All quicksilver campers with boxed in ACs that can't slide out are that way. The outside part of the AC only has access to the air inside the camper. Which causes the AC to suck the inside camper air in the box and blow it outside. This also causes the inside camper air to be replaced with outside hot air. It's impossible for it to cool.
Livin lite knows this and has a kit you can buy to allow the AC to stick out of the camper.
I didn't know that at the time so made some major modification to my AC box. I cut the floor of the camper out from under the AC box. Now the camper can breath using the air under the camper, and it actually gets cool if parked in shade.
I'm experimenting with direct sun with reflective tarps today. I'll report later to tell you how it goes.
Thanks for understanding the problem and all the info. Small update -- I contacted Livin' Lite and was contacted back by Don, the warranty manager. He sent me a pdf of a service bulletin from 2012 that basically has you drill holes in the sidewalls of the camper to add screened vents (think clothes dryer vents). I asked about parts to convert it to the new style that sticks out and he didn't offer any suggestions. I don't really want to cut holes in the side to rig up vents so I think my next attempt will be to contact the parts dept at a dealer and see what they have to say.
[/quote]I too would be reluctant to cut holes in the camper's beautiful sidewalls. I'm thinking kybrown's solution to cut a floor vent might be the best solution. One idea I'd add is perhaps you could get a small aluminum box fabricated that you'd mount below a new hole cut through the floor, located to provide ventilation to the A/C enclosure. Into the bottom face of the box could be mounted a operable vent of the kind typically installed in the walls of horse trailers and some toy haulers. When camping & want to use the a/c you'd pop open the vent letting air into the a/c enclosure. When towing or not using the A/c the vent could stay closed and remain weathertight. The reason for the box would be to give some room for the vent as I suspect one couldn't be installed directly to the floor. An alternative might be to fashion a plastic sleeve through the floor using abs drain pipe with a screw cap (or a bayonet cap like an rv waste tank outlet).
The advantage of these ideas is they are hidden and so don't affect the appearance of the QS camper. If a hole in the floor didn't work it could be easily patched.
Thinking about sizes, the 6.0 would be well than less than half the area to cool. I have four more feet of box space and an extra queen bed area. I would probably need a 20,000 btu to make it cold during the day in direct light.
Further to my above post I went to look at what's available at eTrailer.com and think [a href="https://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Redline/HMAV2-AVT2.html"]>> two of these inexpensive vent covers might work <<[/a]. A three inch hole saw could be used to cut the holes in the aluminum floor planks. Just looking at the plastic vent covers I'm thinking they might need small weep holes to drain any water that might otherwise get trapped inside because they'd be mounted to the underside of the trailer which isn't their usual orientation.
[quote timestamp="1465941679" source="/post/22153/thread" author="@m0brando"][quote source="/post/22151/thread" author="@mjmoore17" timestamp="1465941000"]This is such a foreign problem for me. I have a QS 6.0 with a fixed AC. I was currently in midPennsylvania last week. The temp was 93 and camper was 74. Not in a shaded area. A small fan was adequate to blow the cool air around the unit. It may be that the smaller size of the QS 6.0 adapts well to the 5,000 btu output. I used in earlier out in the Utah desert at over 95 degrees and kept comfortable.
Michael
[/quote]I'm sure the smaller camper has something to do with it but at the same time can you tell me if your unit sticks out of the side of the camper about 4-6"? From your picture it looks like it might. For those that have a newer unit that is fixed but sticks out the side, if you could post any pictures of the outside and inside mounting that would be helpful as I try to piece this together.
[/quote]I have the 2016 QS 10.0 with a 5,000 BTU unit and live in FL... Not much help in direct sunlight but it does get cold in there at night. My camper is in the garage at the moment so I can't take too many decent pictures for you. The one I attached is from a few weeks ago. But if anyone has Instagram you can follow me knc1014. I will be taking it out on Tuesday for a small mod and packing it up to head for the hills. I'd be more than happy to share pictures of our unit on Instagram and also show how we modified a few things already. My guess is though that you have a faulty unit! I wish mine came with 8,000 BTU and when this one goes I will definitely be looking for something better..
I have a 2013 model 10.0. I do notice in your picture that your AC cover has writing on the top. Mine does not have that. Maybe they changed something up.
Quote from: @kybrowns" source="/post/22179/thread" timestamp="1466029247I have a 2013 model 10.0. I do notice in your picture that your AC cover has writing on the top. Mine does not have that. Maybe they changed something up.
I wasn't sure if you were referring to my camper or not but if you were then I wanted to clarify that there is no wiring on the outside for the a/c unit. This is no different than a house window unit. The power supply is pushed under the unit to plug in. ????
Writing not wiring. :)
As a 2010 6.0 owner, my a/c unit slides out. As such, the weight of the unit causes it to hang lower at the back. This works well to allow the condensate pan ( which is actually just the bottom of the a/c housing ) to drain thru a few holes I drilled at the lower back corners. Yes, I understand the a/c efficiency can be increased by allowing the pan to contain the water and have it spray on the coils,but setting up a camper at just the right angle is not always easy. Besides, I became extremely tired of having to ensure the pan was dry on close-up, or risk water on the floor. I believe max a/c is obtained by the unit hanging out completely as in a home install and the use of pop up gizmos or equivalent, which also has the extra benefit of keeping the tenting clean.
Quote from: @kybrowns" source="/post/22182/thread" timestamp="1466031047Writing not wiring. :)
Sorry, lol!! I looked at it to quick I guess...
The writing on my a/c unit is just the brand name of the unit. It is a Danby... Probably one of the cheapest units to put in.. ????
[quote source="/post/22153/thread" author="@m0brando" timestamp="1465941679"][quote timestamp="1465941000" author="@mjmoore17" source="/post/22151/thread"]This is such a foreign problem for me. I have a QS 6.0 with a fixed AC. I was currently in midPennsylvania last week. The temp was 93 and camper was 74. Not in a shaded area. A small fan was adequate to blow the cool air around the unit. It may be that the smaller size of the QS 6.0 adapts well to the 5,000 btu output. I used in earlier out in the Utah desert at over 95 degrees and kept comfortable.
Michael
[/quote]I'm sure the smaller camper has something to do with it but at the same time can you tell me if your unit sticks out of the side of the camper about 4-6"? From your picture it looks like it might. For those that have a newer unit that is fixed but sticks out the side, if you could post any pictures of the outside and inside mounting that would be helpful as I try to piece this together.
[/quote]My AC is flush to the side. It just sits inside the box. I have no idea how it is mounted inside the box because I have never had reason to take the unit out.
Michael
My AC sticks out a bit. Let's see if I can post a pic.
I have only used it in the 80s in direct sunlight so far. I hope to buy a popup gizmo before July sets in.
Good looking camper. Your AC is installed the right way. It can breath easily and cool the outside half of AC.
On the same subject line I was wondering if I took my A/C unit out would I be able to find something to cover the hole properly. Not sure I'd actually do it, but we've never used the A/C.
I recently used my AC in my 6.0 with a Honda eu2000 generator. Worked great after working out some bugs with it. It was over 100 degrees outside and being new, I put the AC on the coldest setting. When I came back to check it the AC unit had shut down. I let it rest for awhile and then it started again. What I found out after doing exhaustive research is that the unit basically froze up, not overheated due to me putting it on the highest cold number (6). When I turned it down to 5 it ran fine and never stopped. And did a good job cooling it down. Apparently an AC unit needs to cycle on and off to prevent the freezing up so better to run at a lower number until temp inside goes down, then bump up to a colder setting if necessary. Always a learning process! But the generator worked great!!
Quote from: @susanh" source="/post/22430/thread" timestamp="1466560256I recently used my AC in my 6.0 with a Honda eu2000 generator. Worked great after working out some bugs with it. It was over 100 degrees outside and being new, I put the AC on the coldest setting. When I came back to check it the AC unit had shut down. I let it rest for awhile and then it started again. What I found out after doing exhaustive research is that the unit basically froze up, not overheated due to me putting it on the highest cold number (6). When I turned it down to 5 it ran fine and never stopped. And did a good job cooling it down. Apparently an AC unit needs to cycle on and off to prevent the freezing up so better to run at a lower number until temp inside goes down, then bump up to a colder setting if necessary. Always a learning process! But the generator worked great!!
I have had the same experience as Susanh. I discovered it by accident but usually set my 5,000 btu to 5 and have better results.
michael
Just a quick update for those that might find this in the future. I purchased a new 8000 BTU GE window unit from a local store that Sam started and it is pretty much the same dimensions as the original Danby unit yet much cheaper and better according to reviews. I have temporary mounted it as you would in a window with the outer vents sticking out of the camper. The camper is setup in the sun and the temp now is 97 with a heat index of 105. The unit is keeping the camper around 78 degrees which given the conditions I find adequate. Nighttime cooling is much better keeping it at whatever temp I set it on with no feeling of moisture inside the camper. The key is not the new A/C unit but the fact that it's properly vented.
I plan to use drawer slides and some fabrication to retrofit it to a slide out unit with some sort of door or cover over the outside for winter/travel. I have contacted LivinLite about parts available (like a hinged door, etc) from the pre-2012 campers and they only referred me to my dealer. The dealer parts manager says they've gone round and round on older parts for our campers and the LivinLite parts manager has no ability to identify/order parts for the "older" units. As has been said on here before - I love the concept of QS campers and am happy to own one, but manufacturer support is lackluster at best! So I'll have to see what I can piece together but at least I know it is possible to keep the interior reasonably cool with a standard window unit. Thanks again to all for their input and help! This community appears to be all we've got!
Thanks for the update. Please let us know what you come up with. What are dimensions by the way? I can't get to my camper currently.
Quote from: @knc1014" source="/post/22174/thread" timestamp="1466021434[quote timestamp="1465941679" source="/post/22153/thread" author="@m0brando"]I'm sure the smaller camper has something to do with it but at the same time can you tell me if your unit sticks out of the side of the camper about 4-6"? From your picture it looks like it might. For those that have a newer unit that is fixed but sticks out the side, if you could post any pictures of the outside and inside mounting that would be helpful as I try to piece this together.
I have the 2016 QS 10.0 with a 5,000 BTU unit and live in FL... Not much help in direct sunlight but it does get cold in there at night. My camper is in the garage at the moment so I can't take too many decent pictures for you. The one I attached is from a few weeks ago. But if anyone has Instagram you can follow me knc1014. I will be taking it out on Tuesday for a small mod and packing it up to head for the hills. I'd be more than happy to share pictures of our unit on Instagram and also show how we modified a few things already. My guess is though that you have a faulty unit! I wish mine came with 8,000 BTU and when this one goes I will definitely be looking for something better..[/quote]
Just wanted to clarify that in my 2016 QS 10 I have an 8,000 BTU. I thought it was only 5,000 but I guess that's because it just doesn't do much in the heat and direct sunlight.
Quote from: @kybrowns" timestamp="1466633384" source="/post/22443/threadThanks for the update. Please let us know what you come up with. What are dimensions by the way? I can't get to my camper currently.
Hole dimensions are about 19" wide by 13" tall. No real way to go bigger because it is framed in as a part of the wall structure of the camper. In my XLP14 the A/C unit sits up off the floor about 5" on an aluminum frame that is welded together and screwed into to the camper. Hoping I have enough clearance (it will be very close) to use some drawer slides between this and the A/C unit to allow it to slide in and out. My brother in law is going to help me with it over the 4th holiday - one way or another we'll figure something out - even if it's a manual setup! Regardless it's going to stick out to breathe while camping! :)
[p]Guys, [/p][p]Where did you get the outside covers for your a/c units? I had one installed on my 14 XLP and they didn't put that on. [/p]
[quote source="/post/22744/thread" timestamp="1467647051" author="@bmxdaddy"][p]Guys, [/p][p]Where did you get the outside covers for your a/c units? I had one installed on my 14 XLP and they didn't put that on. [/p][/quote]
My cover came with the A/C installation kit that my dealer ordered from the factory.
Been in MO for last 3 days. Our 2015 8.1 has 8000 Frigidare unit in it from factory. It has been extremely hot and humid since we arrived. We were first in a slot that had full sun on one end and side till around 1:30 PM. I requested a move when I had seen sun patterns for a shady spot. They let us move so we drove from Van Buren to Dexter for a 25 extension cord for our 30 amp hookup. Since moving it has been much better. We drove to Branson today and returned this evening and the camper was nice when we got back. Set it on 5 of 6 and 2 fans to circulate it. I do not think without a reflective cover you could keep it cool in full sun with an 8000. I may see if I can fit our emergency 12,500 into the space and try it.
But it has been 100 and 75-80% humidity so in all fairness that is pushing it.
My AC works but I have to set ot on 7 to get it cool. It's the same temperature inside as outside if it's set any less than 6.
I'm just confused by this. The AC hangs outside, but it was sucking in air from inside the trailer. Now that I put it on 6, the cooling is happening again.
I haven't had it freeze on me. I think it just is underpowered or inefficient.
I'm in almost full shade a few hundred feet from Lake Michigan. I would have the screens open if the two families next to me didn't have shrieking children. They scream for hours and hours and only stop to whine.
How many have run their 8000 BTU units off a 2k inverter generator? The unit should draw around 7-8 amps, no? So a couple fans along with the AC should work fine...
[p]I just read through this thread that I first ignored because I don't have a QS, but a CL. I was shocked.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Every "window unit" I have ever seen has vent slots in the side for about 2/3s of the length towards the back. Air is sucked in through these vents and blown out the back. This cools the condenser coil and takes away the heat that is transferred from the inside of the trailer.[/p][p]
[/p][p]It seems that LL has built some QS' with the rear of the air conditioner flush mounted and no side vents exposed to the outside air. I haven't seen a picture of the inside of one of these installations. Do they have side vents in the interior of the trailer, so that air is sucked in from the air conditioned space? If so this is horrible as you are exhausting your cool air!!! Even worse if you don't have any side vents. The unit should shut down because there is no way to exhaust its heat so the compressor/condenser will overheat and shut down.[/p][p]
[/p][p]It is no wonder that those with this type of air conditioning aren't getting any cooling.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Someone posted a video of cutting slots in the floor to bring outside air up into the unit which looks like a good solution. If the slots are big enough and sealed off from the interior of the trailer, that will function the same as extending the air conditioner out the side to let the normal slots work in open air.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Another solution that LL recommends is to cut slots in the sidewalls of the trailer to let open air be sucked in to cool the condenser. This will probably also work.[/p][p]
[/p][p]The bottom line is that this is a total screwup on LL's part to install a window unit flush to the outside. The best solution is to put the A/C on sliding rails so it can be pulled out to work as it was designed once you get the trailer set up. I understand that some QSs were built this way, but obviously not all.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Mr. Miller, can you comment on this type of air conditioner installation on a QS?[/p][p]
[/p][p]David[/p]
You hit the nail on the head David. It seems like no thought was put into that AC box design. My AC was completely sealed in a box. The only way the AC could cool itself was using the air from in the camper and blowing it outside.
I'm the one that cut the floor under the AC to let it breath outside air instead of the inside air and blowing it outside. This works well. Still will not cool during the day, unless shaded by trees.
I wish they made the AC opening bigger to allow for a bigger AC. It might have a chance to cool well during the day with the help of a gizmo.
I think they had a better design with my model year. I have an AC unit on sliders. It works well and tucks away when not in use. I think it's also a cleaner look externally because nothing hangs out during travel.
I wish that were the style for current models. Mine sticks out, but I wish it would stick out further.
I also wish I could have been given a cover for the hole for when I camp without the AC. As it is I have to leave it in.
I HAVE A 2013 QS 10.0. I HAD SAME PROBLEM. ORDERED KIT FROM LIVIN LITE TO MOVE DANBY 8000AC OUT ALMOST HALFWAY. KIT INCLUDED SHORTER CABINET, SCREWS,TRIM AND SNAP ON COVER. NOW PARTS ARE ONLY AVAILABLE THRU DEALER .USED TO DEAL WITH GREAT GENTLEMAN JACK FILLEY. HELPED BUT DIDNT SOLVE PROBLEM. COLD AIR SINKS,HOT AIR RISES.AC SET AT 62 WOULD CUT IN AND OUT BECAUSE SENSOR ON AC IS LOCATED AT BOTTOM FRONTOF COILS. MADE AIR DEFLECTOR OUT OF ALUMINUM TURKEY ROAST PAN. LOL FORCES AIR UP .PUT SMALL FAN ON CABINET TOP TO DISRIBUTE COLD AIR . AC RUNS STEADY NOW,NO CUT IN AND OUT DUE TO FLOOR TEMPATURE. ALSO DRILLED HOLE ABOUT 3/8 INCH I LOWEST PART OF PAN ON AC. VERY EASY,JUST BE CAREFUL! TO TEST CAMPER IN MY ALL METAL GARAGE. TEMP INSIDE GARAGE OVER 120, INSIDE CAMPER 68!!!! CALL ME AT 336 269 4721 IF QUESTIONS. THESE ARE GREAT CAMPERS, JUST NO FACTORY BACKING SINCE THOR INDUSTRIES OWNS NOW. SAD
Late to this, but just sharing my experience.
We were camping in our 8.1 this past weekend, and it was pretty hot and humid out (lower 90s, very sticky). Running our AC with a box fan in front, angle up at an angle, kept the tent downright chilly (and dry) - my wife actually asked me a couple times to turn it down. This included in the heat of the day with the sun. No Gizmo or anything, no awning, just the AC cranked up. It was acually COLD at night - I probably overdid it...
As others have identified, the biggest downfall is the placement of the AC on the floor, which is necessitated by the soft top of the Quicksilver. Having the fan in front of the AC made all the difference for us. The small bunk area at the opposite end was equally comfortable.
If I turned the fan off, the area immediately in front of the AC was freezing; the rest of the camper was cool-ish.
Quote from: @cruiserdon" source="/post/23739/thread" timestamp="1470749225I HAVE A 2013 QS 10.0. I HAD SAME PROBLEM. ORDERED KIT FROM LIVIN LITE TO MOVE DANBY 8000AC OUT ALMOST HALFWAY. KIT INCLUDED SHORTER CABINET, SCREWS,TRIM AND SNAP ON COVER. NOW PARTS ARE ONLY AVAILABLE THRU DEALER .USED TO DEAL WITH GREAT GENTLEMAN JACK FILLEY. HELPED BUT DIDNT SOLVE PROBLEM. COLD AIR SINKS,HOT AIR RISES.AC SET AT 62 WOULD CUT IN AND OUT BECAUSE SENSOR ON AC IS LOCATED AT BOTTOM FRONTOF COILS. MADE AIR DEFLECTOR OUT OF ALUMINUM TURKEY ROAST PAN. LOL FORCES AIR UP .PUT SMALL FAN ON CABINET TOP TO DISRIBUTE COLD AIR . AC RUNS STEADY NOW,NO CUT IN AND OUT DUE TO FLOOR TEMPATURE. ALSO DRILLED HOLE ABOUT 3/8 INCH I LOWEST PART OF PAN ON AC. VERY EASY,JUST BE CAREFUL! TO TEST CAMPER IN MY ALL METAL GARAGE. TEMP INSIDE GARAGE OVER 120, INSIDE CAMPER 68!!!! CALL ME AT 336 269 4721 IF QUESTIONS. THESE ARE GREAT CAMPERS, JUST NO FACTORY BACKING SINCE THOR INDUSTRIES OWNS NOW. SAD
Would love to see a picture of your air deflector.
I'll first issue the disclaimer that I don't a CampLite. I do have a home built teardrop trailer so I'm not completely speculating on the topic.
First, there are "through wall" air conditioning units that have the condenser intake and exhaust at the back of the unit. There is no intake on the sides. I believe the smallest unit is 8,000 Btuh. One of these could be used flush in a Quicksilver. The through wall units are substantially more expensive than window units.
In the teardrop world many have adapted window units. One common installation is to have the front of the unit recessed. This creates the same challenge as in the Quicksilver where the window unit extends beyond the sidewalk. As a previous poster mentioned, a deflector or short duct is necessary to keep the cold supply air from being pulled back into the intake. (The recess or overhang seems to direct it that way). I think it is worth a try if you have this situation. Separating the flows should in improve the performance of the unit.