The right jacks were fine. The left jacks' feet were almost to the ground. I used the bar to get them onto the ground and the jack had no hole to go into that got the foot on the ground. I ended up just bending the hole area so that my brother had to hammer the bendy metal when packing up so the jack went back inside for closing up. He fixed them so there is movement possible again. But, sheesh!
Please tell me if I'm correct: My lesson learned is that sometimes the jack will just have to be there in case it needs to keep the trailer from tipping, but it doesn't have to be exerting force on the ground constantly.
Leveling isn't a concern for me. I had that down. BAL leveler and BAL chock on other wheel. That setup was as solid as could be. I was very pleased and thankful for everyone's recommendations on that front.
Thanks for help and advice!
P.S. I also closed the door zipper in the door and broke some teeth. And that's all I'll admit to today. (Pretty much it.)
The stabilizers are there to stabilize by they can't do anything unless they are at least touching the ground. You are correct though in saying that they don't have to be exerting much force. This is part of the reason I bring a few deck board sections. Roughly 1"x6"x1' so they can have a nice wide surface area. They can be used to fill any gaps if the jacks don't reach all the way. They also act like a product recommended by others on here known as elephant feet. They help spread out the weight in soft areas to prevent sinking.
[quote source="/post/22017/thread" author="@admin" timestamp="1465468350"]The stabilizers are there to stabilize by they can't do anything unless they are at least touching the ground. You are correct thoughin saying that they don't have to be exerting much force. This is past of the reason I bring a few deck board sections. They can be used to fill any gaps if the jacks don't reach all the way. [/quote]I also carry some bed boards to help stabilize. I just hope that my 2 1/2 yr. old granddaughter never looks in her bed mattress. I would have some explaining to do. Maybe blame it on the dog.
Michael
What I have learned is most of the shakes and wiggles are back and forth motions. Anytime I use my tire leveler which holds the tire firmly, I have fewer shakes.
Shakes and wiggles are something you just have to get use to in a Quicksilver. The stabilizers are just to keep the from tipping over to one side. Which I have done before when I climbed into bed and forgot to put the stabiles down. Didn't take me long to figure what I forgot to do.
P.s. I'm camping in my now . Covert, MI KOA. On my way to Sleeping Bear, MI. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160609/82c5a42f2ff2e37f04a378690b8530dd.jpg)
I finally used the Valterra stabilizers I bought. They made my QS10.0 really nice inside. No wiggles. I used two under the frame on opposing corners. Wood blocks underneath the jacks and I leveled out the trailer with those first, then the Valterras. Yea, it's an extra couple things to bring but I think it's worth it, especially if you're staying for more than a day..
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-020106-RV-Stabilizer/dp/B001UGJPXQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=valterra%20stabilizers&qid=1465488278&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Doh. Forehead slap. I bought yellow pads to go under the stabilizer jacks. Put them away. I think I imagined they were for muddy or sandy soil. I don't know. Next time I'll use them.
I had the correct tool and didn't recognize.
Thanks!
Thats always the way it works :)
One other thing I learned on this forum seems worth remembering here. Your stabilizer legs can be used if you need to change a tire on a single axle trailer! It wasn't obvious to me until I read it here - then it was "Oh of course - why hadn't I thought of that?). Here's the idea. With the trailer unhitched you first crank the tongue jack to lower the tongue nearer the ground than usual. You then fully deploy your rear stabilizers positioning blocks below the pads. (For this scraps of 2x lumber can be useful). Then you crank the jack to lift the tongue up into nosebleed territory. As you crank the rear stabilizers mate with their blocking and the tongue jack eventually lifts the wheels off the ground. A variation on this technique is to put the blocking below the tongue jack --- or have blocking below the jack and the rear stabilizers. So it is that its not a bad idea to carry with you a few scraps of 2x4s or 2x6s. You can use them to help stabilize your trailer -- or you can use them to help lift the wheels off the ground when you have a flat or want to grease the wheel bearings.
[quote source="/post/22611/thread" timestamp="1467074733" author="@peislander"]One other thing I learned on this forum seems worth remembering here. Your stabilizer legs can be used if you need to change a tire on a single axle trailer! It wasn't obvious to me until I read it here - then it was "Oh of course - why hadn't I thought of that?). Here's the idea. With the trailer unhitched you first crank the tongue jack to lower the tongue nearer the ground than usual. You then fully deploy your rear stabilizers positioning blocks below the pads. (For this scraps of 2x lumber can be useful). Then you crank the jack to lift the tongue up into nosebleed territory. As you crank the rear stabilizers mate with their blocking and the tongue jack eventually lifts the wheels off the ground. A variation on this technique is to put the blocking below the tongue jack --- or have blocking below the jack and the rear stabilizers. So it is that its not a bad idea to carry with you a few scraps of 2x4s or 2x6s. You can use them to help stabilize your trailer -- or you can use them to help lift the wheels off the ground when you have a flat or want to grease the wheel bearings.
[/quote]I wouldn't use the stab jacks that way for anything heavier than a tent camper. They are not that strong, are usually not attached to the load bearing parts of the frame, and are not meant for this. You not only risk damaging the trailer, but if you are under it when it fails it is a safety issue.
[quote source="/post/22625/thread" author="@pinstriper" timestamp="1467124250"][quote source="/post/22611/thread" author="@peislander" timestamp="1467074733"]One other thing I learned on this forum seems worth remembering here. Your stabilizer legs can be used if you need to change a tire on a single axle trailer! It wasn't obvious to me until I read it here - then it was "Oh of course - why hadn't I thought of that?). Here's the idea. With the trailer unhitched you first crank the tongue jack to lower the tongue nearer the ground than usual. You then fully deploy your rear stabilizers positioning blocks below the pads. (For this scraps of 2x lumber can be useful). Then you crank the jack to lift the tongue up into nosebleed territory. As you crank the rear stabilizers mate with their blocking and the tongue jack eventually lifts the wheels off the ground. A variation on this technique is to put the blocking below the tongue jack --- or have blocking below the jack and the rear stabilizers. So it is that its not a bad idea to carry with you a few scraps of 2x4s or 2x6s. You can use them to help stabilize your trailer -- or you can use them to help lift the wheels off the ground when you have a flat or want to grease the wheel bearings.
[/quote]I wouldn't use the stab jacks that way for anything heavier than a tent camper. They are not that strong, are usually not attached to the load bearing parts of the frame, and are not meant for this. You not only risk damaging the trailer, but if you are under it when it fails it is a safety issue.
[/quote]Thanks. So I'm left wondering how on a trailer like mine a tire could be changed on the side of the road? A regular automotive jack to the frame wouldn't work without a lot of blocking under the jack. (I have the off-road package).
Quote from: @peislander" source="/post/22626/thread" timestamp="1467126238[quote source="/post/22625/thread" timestamp="1467124250" author="@pinstriper"]I wouldn't use the stab jacks that way for anything heavier than a tent camper. They are not that strong, are usually not attached to the load bearing parts of the frame, and are not meant for this. You not only risk damaging the trailer, but if you are under it when it fails it is a safety issue.
Thanks. So I'm left wondering how on a trailer like mine a tire could be changed on the side of the road? A regular automotive jack to the frame wouldn't work without a lot of blocking under the jack. (I have the off-road package).[/quote]
You will probably need a bottle jack that is tall, not regular height. A choice you made with the off road option.
There may be a scissors style jack with a taller range that is cheaper but will take up more space.
Could you not simply use the jack under the axle itself? Using a block to spread the load I would think you should have a flat spot where the axle is mounted. If lifting from the axle (assuming it will not damage the axle) it shouldn't take much to get it just high enough to change a tire.
Search the earlier discussions. I think some of these axles are hollow tubes and might not handle the concentrated weight ? Kinda fuzzy for me, but for some reason lifting with the axle is a no-no.
Charlie ?
[font size="3"]Gee Pins, thanks for the handoff. I'll run with the ball, Coach, just tell me where the goal is. :|
DO NOT put a jack on the axle tube. It is hollow and thin and easily crushed. Place the jack under the axle mounting plates or under the frame close to the axle mountings. The trailer is designed to be supported by the axle so no problem there. If you can use a wooden block to distribute the force that's good.
Beside not being designed to lift the trailer, using the stabilizers also puts an abnormal stress on the frame. Although it might not damage the frame it will cause an abnormal flexing. This may help open some seals and that's a bad thing.
Over to you, Pins..................................
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Couldn'ta said it better myself, Charlie !
In short, things are designed for certain purposes. Sometimes trying to come up with a clever "hack" is being "too clever by half".
To be clear I was not saying to use just any old spot under the axle. I am not always as talented as Charlie but I did mention using the location where the axle is mounted. I knew I could count on you guys to more accurately describe the concept :) While we are on the topic we should note that while the concepts are the same no matter what, they become more important with the added weight. Something like a QuickSilver where its weight is around 1000 pounds will not have the same impact as a 21 foot CampLite.
[quote timestamp="1467292552" author="@admin" source="/post/22684/thread"]To be clear I was not saying to use just any old spot under the axle. I am not always as talented as Charlie but I did mention using the location where the axle is mounted. I knew I could count on you guys to more accurately describe the concept :) While we are on the topic we should note that while the concepts are the same no matter what, they become more important with the added weight. Something like a QuickSilver where its weight is around 1000 pounds will not have the same impact as a 21 foot CampLite.[/quote]Yes, very much more likely to get away with it, a caveat to my original response. Which I only made so someone else doesn't come along and mistake it for something to do with the heavier trailers.