Just went in the pup (in my back yard) and there's a squealing noise coming from the fuse box. We have 2014 Quicksilver. The noise stops if I turn the breakers off. The camper is currently plugged into our house for power. Had it like this for a few nights camping out with the grandchildren.
Had the same trouble last summer. You probably have an Elixir converter, they're a known lemon. If you're still on warranty, then Livin Lite will send you a WFCO replacement.
I just replaced mine last weekend. It wasn't fun, but if you label all the wires as you take the old one out, then putting in the new one isn't a big deal. The WFCO is larger, so you have to enlarge your opening, which I did with a Dremel tool.
It goes without saying that if you're not comfortable around electrical, then get the pros to do this for you.
Attached are some links.
http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/333/replacing-elixir-power-converter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzlGnH7i6a4
Agree with everything said above. Even if you aren't under warranty LL might still cover due to the known issues with the converter.
Wow really? That sucks. We've only camped ONE season and bought the camper BRAND NEW. LL better cover the replacement AND installation or they'll have a VERY unhappy customer who will not be saying any kind words about their products.
Quick update: camper has been in the shop since Saturday. I was promised I'd be able to camp in it this weekend but so far NO word about it being done. I called a few days ago to check on it and was told "we promised you it would be done by the end of the week and it'll be done by the end of the week."
I was planning on camping this weekend and I'm pretty sure the camping weekend starts TONIGHT. Grrrrr!
I'm sorry to hear that, I hope they keep their word.
my fuse box hums when powered by shore 120v power.
sorry about your plans..
No camping for us this weekend...again. Dealer didn't come through and is now predicting next Tuesday as a done time. I'm not a happy camper.
I have come to find that even the simplest of things drags out forever when trying to get worked completed at a dealership/service center. Sadly customer service seems to be down the list of their priorities.
So I ended up getting the camper back on time (the second time) with the new WFCO converter in it. Has more fuses than the old one and no visible cooling fan like the ELIXR did. So far, so good!
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Wow, I took a close up look at your new power supply. It looks like your dealer installed the AC breakers with a hammer and cold chisel. Also, the breakers are mounted a little crooked and they didn't install a blank cover on the empty breaker slot, plus they didn't even bother to list the circuit designations. I don't want to cause you any unnecessary grief but when I see craftsmanship like this I tend to be concerned about the wiring. You should probably make sure that all the wiring is tightened down correctly. Loose wires can cause lights to blink off and on, and can cause arcing at the connection. It's only a ten minute job, but you need someone who knows what they are doing.
It is great that you have the new converter but I agree with @james. That installation is sub-par (and thats being kind). I personally installed my own WFCO converter and there should have been no need to cut the plastic face plate like that.
As for the 12v fuses, are you actually using all the circuits? In my 10.0 I only had 3 required for factory circuits such as the light socket, the 12v charging port, and the battery charging circuit, the 4th was open. If that is the case I would remove the fuse so you dont have a live wire just hanging around back there.
-Sean
I'm not dealing with that dealership anymore so I'm not going to call them about it. I'm going to test and label all the fuses/outlets today after the grandson goes home. I'll also lower the galley and double check the wire connections. Regarding the open breaker slot--any suggestions as to what I can do to cover it up? We're leaving the 15th for a weekend trip and I'd like to get this cleaned up before then. Thanks guys!
Ok, so here's what I know and what I don't know...
The 15 amp breaker controls everything but the A/C outlet. The A/C outlet is the ONLY thing on the 20 amp breaker.
There is one (1) 30 amp fuse in the box. It powers the A/C outlet only.
There are four (4) 15 amp fuses in the box, labeled 1, 2, 3 and 4 next to each fuse socket. I can take the #2, 3 and 4 fuses OUT and the two other outlets in the camper still work (the 12 v. socket and the regular wall outlet). What are those three fuses for?
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[font size="3"]So here's what I know:
[ol type="decimal"][li]Your dealer should be shot.
[/li][li]Your dealer should be executed.[/li][li]Your dealer should be fed to the Zombies.[/li][/ol][p]
[/p][p]What a mess. No excuse for such a messy and incompetent installation. That said, the breakers control the AC (shore power) items and the fuses control the DC (battery) devices. The 20A breaker does not control the 12V outlet. It controls things like the 120V outlets, a fridge or microwave if you have one, or the 120V side of the water heater if you have one. The 30A fuse is a battery reversal protection fuse. It does not control anything 120V. If it blows the converter will not charge the battery. The 12V outlet is controlled by one of the 15A fuses. [font size="3"]
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[/font][/p][p][font size="3"]What model QS do you have and what appliances do you have? Let me know and maybe I can be of more help. See #1-3 above.
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I have a 2014 QS 8.0. No appliances, unless you count the A/C. No heater/furnace, no hot water unit, no stove/cooktop...nothing. And we've never used the A/C while camping. I've only run it at home for a very short time to make sure it actually worked. When we camp we take a dorm fridge with us and plug it into the A/C outlet. We have never used the battery--only camp at places with electric hookups. The unit was brand new when we bought it last year.
And boo for your #1-3! Now I really hate that dealership!
[font size="3"]Debi,
In that case the 20A breaker should be for the A/C and the 15A breaker probably powers your converter and any 120V outlets you may have. Again, I'm not totally familiar with the 8.0.
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