[font size="3"]It sounds like there may be a wiring error either on the trailer or the tow vehicle. Best to have the whole system checked by someone familiar with trailer electrical systems. Black on positive and white on negative may be OK since that follows the residential house wiring code. Red on ground is not in agreement with any convention or code. The are also fuses in the power distribution/converter panel that may be blown. Have it checked out including the wiring on the tow vehicle if it was not done at the factory.
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[font size="3"]The small QSs have a flaky way of wiring the power converter, IMO. Others with the fuse problem have replaced the 15A that blows with a 20A. If that fixes it it's OK to leave it in. If not you must look further. You should be able to get the lights and fan to operate when NOT connected to the TV as long as your battery is charged. I'd get that part going first.
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At its core these power converters are not that bad, but I agree with @charliem, the wiring is a bit flaky. I had to replace my factory original with the newer version wcco (dont quote me on that) and it irritated me. Considering its only a couple of 12v circuits and 2 120v circuits, it shouldnt be complicated yet it seems to be wired in the most difficult way possible. In my rig there were multiple grounds and 1 mis-wired 12v circuit. If you have the time and know-how I would highly recommend going through the trailer wiring.
Please keep in mind that wiring colors for 12 volt DC systems in cars and campers are very different from the AC electrical wiring in houses. In a 120 volt AC system, black is "hot", white is "neutral", and bare wires are ground. In the 12 volt system, red is typically positive and black is negative, like the battery connection. HOWEVER, in trailer light wiring and these campers, ground is white and other colors are positive for different circuits.
If you are still having problems, the first thing I would do is to disconnect the battery, just to eliminate it from the situation. Get the 12 volt system running without the battery and then add the battery back according to the instructions for the power supply in the camper. As I reccall, there is a separate lead into the power supply for the battery and the battery ground hooks to the same white ground lead.
I have a 2010 6.0 that had problems in the ground wiring. The power supply is not grounded to the camper, but the 12 volt power outlet under the seat was grounded to the frame, so it didn't work. When I untaped the wiring, I found that the ground wires from the lighting outlets and the power supply's ground (white lead from the power supply) were all connected together with a wire nut. I don't like wire nuts on 12 volt systems and I wanted better connections. So, I reconnected everything with some terminal strips and grounded everything to one ground strip that I added. Since I wasn't sure if the power supply would tolerate a common ground to the frame, I did not ground it and am still using a floating ground.
I don't have a battery in my 6.0, and based on the fact that the 12 volt electrical system was not grounded to the frame of the camper at the factory, I would check how the negative lead from the battery is connected to the camper. If it is grounded to the frame, but the power supply is not, that could create a situation where the battery is trying to ground through one circuit that is grounded to the frame which would easily lead to blown fuses.
I don't want to write a novel here, so I'm going to quit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
BTW, I am not an electrician, but I am the son of an Electrical Engineer and I learned a lot from my father.
Agree. Just bought a 2017 10.0 and hooked up to power in my driveway everything works, but once we unplug the shore power fans and lights don't do anything. Literally bought it last week. Is there something we're missing?
[font size="3"]My first guess is the battery is not getting charged by the converter or the tow vehicle (TV). The 12V wiring in the QSs is known to be flaky. Blown fuses are common so check all the 12V fuses including the 30A reverse polarity fuse. The color coding of the battery wires is odd so many dealers may connect the battery improperly. If the battery is ever connected backwards, even for an instant, the 30A fuse will blow. This will prevent the converter from charging the battery. This thread: [a href="http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/1281/usb-ports-working"]http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/1281/usb-ports-working[/a] discusses some of the problems. Note that the USB problem mentioned is a separate issue, not related to the battery/power panel wiring problem.
SEAN: Jump in here with QS specifics.
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And that is why I have avoided attaching a battery. I'm not "there" yet. Project for next summer's time and money.
The wiring for the QS is most definitely an issue for many people. It should be fairly easy to trace but the color and gauge of wire seems to be sporadic. On my QS the primary lines coming off the battery are both white with the positive wire being indicated by a red wrap of tape. This is then fed into the converter while the negative is connected to a floating central ground.
From the converter you'll have 4 individual circuits that will have various colors. These are all for the positive side of their respective circuits. In my case one of these is used to feed the small outlets used for the fan/light units. The wiring used looks to be a bonded pair (think speaker wire) 18 gauge or perhaps 16 gauge, either way it is very light. This is easy to get backwards because the only difference between the two sides is a small stripe which typically indicates the positive side of the circuit.
All of this said, the converter seems to treat everything as individual elements. Meaning I can still use the converter and the 12v outlets if I use shore power without a battery hooked up. I personally have found that the wiring was messy but functional in my unit. The mix of gauges and colors is frustrating but it should be functional.
Oh and when in doubt check the fuses.
[quote source="/post/23899/thread" timestamp="1471231386" author="@jammydee"]Agree. Just bought a 2017 10.0 and hooked up to power in my driveway everything works, but once we unplug the shore power fans and lights don't do anything. Literally bought it last week. Is there something we're missing?[/quote]The shortest path between two points is a straight line to the dealer.
Quote from: @pinstriper" source="/post/23930/thread" timestamp="1471444238Quote from: @jammydee" source="/post/23899/thread" timestamp="1471231386Agree. Just bought a 2017 10.0 and hooked up to power in my driveway everything works, but once we unplug the shore power fans and lights don't do anything. Literally bought it last week. Is there something we're missing?
The shortest path between two points is a straight line to the dealer.
I don't know, the path to the dealer is a 4-hour drive. ;)
I hope you get your issue figured out. I DID just buy a battery to try hooking up this weekend, and I will bookmark this thread for advice in case it doesn't work. Already bought spare fuses to rule that out. :-)
Keep in mind that the QS is typically a standard 4 pin connection for driving lights. This means that while hooked up for towing you will get zero charge to the battery. So you should take care to maintain the battery while in storage, and to top it off prior to leaving for a trip.
If you get power to the 12v accessory ports while plugged into shore power than we know the converter is pumping out juice. The question is why is this not working while on battery power. The simplest answer is a blown fuse or a dead battery. If it is a blown fuse it is most likely the reverse polarity fuse protecting the converter from an improperly hooked up battery. I say this because if it was the fuse for the accessory circuits, then they wouldnt work while on shore power.
If you have a charged battery and all the fuses are solid, then its time to break out the multimeter. Either way let us know how the battery and fuses are before we go into more detailed steps.
-Sean
The electric brakes on my trailer definitely work when I'm towing, so I'm pretty sure there's charge going to the trailer from my TV
[quote timestamp="1471567515" source="/post/23962/thread" author="@jammydee"]The electric brakes on my trailer definitely work when I'm towing, so I'm pretty sure there's charge going to the trailer from my TV [/quote][font size="3"]Brakes and battery charge are separate and independent circuits. Brakes working does confirm you have the 7 pin connector vs the 4 pin. However, the charge line may still not be connected in either the TV or TT. Only a meter will tell the truth.[/font]
It's unusual for a quicksilver to have electric brakes. Out of curiosity did you order it that way? Since you do have the 7 pin you should have the option for charging the battery while towing but unless you had it wired to charge I highly doubt it was done by default.
[quote timestamp="1471604426" author="@admin" source="/post/23972/thread"]It's unusual for a quicksilver to have electric brakes. Out of curiosity did you order it that way? Since you do have the 7 pin you should have the option for charging the battery while towing but unless you had it wired to charge I highly doubt it was done by default. [/quote][font size="3"]Agreed the brakes are not a standard configuration. JAMMYDEE: are you sure you have electric brakes? They must have been ordered or added. You must also have the round 7 pin connector on the wire from the trailer and on the tow vehicle. You must also have both the trailer and the tow vehicle wired for charging. They don't just happen by default or accident in a non standard configuration. Only a meter tells the truth. [/font]
I ordered it with electric brakes. I'm sure I have them (when I apply them with the brake controller independent of my TV brakes I can feel them, plus you can hear them being applied)
I also have the round 7-pin connector. And we checked all the wires on the tow vehicle when wiring it at the dealer. If the QS was incorrectly wired from the factory that would be a different issue. I know the connector wires work, though.
[p]I am not sure that it has been said on this thread, but it has been said on lots of others: many TVs need a fuse added to the main fuse box to allow power to flow to the 7 pin connector to charge the battery. I would not accept that the dealer "checked them out".
It is easy to check yourself with a meter. Connect the pos lead to pin 4 and the neg lead to pin 1 . See the attachment. Make sure that the TVs engine is running as there is a relay that only powers it when the engine is running. You should read 12v. If not check for the missing fuse.[/p][p]
[/p][p]David[/p]