[p]I know this has been mentioned a couple of times but wanted to reopen the roof rack topic. I am looking for options of mounting a Yakima roof rack for a basket, kayak, and bike mounts on the top of my folded QS 6.0. I would like the rack easy to remove and at the moment I'm not concerned about removing/reinstalling the legs for the bed once unfolded, so this can be ignored. Looking at the top (underside of the bed) the aluminum frame looks like the ideal spot to drill holes for the treaded rivets for a Yakima track. The crossbars will have to be trimmed so not to interfere with the unfolding of the bed, but I believe the tracks/feet/crossbars would work. I may call the factory for guidance at some point. Thoughts?[/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Yakima/Y01127.html"]Yakima Track[/a] [/p][p]
[/p][p]
(http://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/Y/0/Y01127_2004~Ford~F-250_and_F-350_Super_Duty_2_500.jpg)
(http://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/Y/8/Y8880039_6_500.jpg)
[quote source="/post/14510/thread" timestamp="1440430454" author="@cowfly"][p]... I'm not concerned about removing/reinstalling the legs for the bed once unfolded, so this can be ignored. Looking at the top (underside of the bed) the aluminum frame looks like the ideal spot to drill holes for the treaded rivets for a Yakima track. The crossbars will have to be trimmed so not to interfere with the unfolding of the bed, but I believe the tracks/feet/crossbars would work. I may call the factory for guidance at some point. Thoughts?[/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Yakima/Y01127.html"]Yakima Track[/a] [/p][p]
[/p][/quote]
I'm not following you... how would you use your tonneau cover if you mount tracks to the underside of the bed?
I assume, being a 6.0, he will remove the cover. Possibly add some latches to keep the bed down during transport.
Will the Yakima bars span the width you are looking at?
Otherwise I think you are on the right track, assuming @rob is right and you plan to latch the top down :)
-Sean
[quote source="/post/14525/thread" timestamp="1440438069" author="@rob"]I assume, being a 6.0, he will remove the cover. Possibly add some latches to keep the bed down during transport. [/quote]Would that seal well enough? I don't know that I would trust it in a rain storm at highway speed driving the water into the gap...
I'm surprised someone hasn't modified a QS10 and removed the tonneau, added better seals between the bed tops and the box and added some clamps so you can add racking on top.
[p]I believe a couple of latches and at least a front seal would have to be installed to tow without the cover. This maybe a dry conditions/light rain only setup. This is why I like the tracks along the edges of the top, easy removal of the racks if needed. Since the top is a single piece, I believe the QS 6.0 should have been designed with a hardtop (sans cover) like the Jeep version. I'm assuming this is a weight savings of some type. Owning the off road version, I also like the legs and handles of the Jeep 6.0.
[a href="https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Rhino-Rack/RLT500.html"]Rhino Rack[/a]
(https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/R/L/RLT500_RTC_HDB_500.jpg)
(http://www.wegocamping.com/uploads/inventory_images/16966/2014-LIVIN-LITE-JEEP-EXTREME-TRAIL-16966-46915.jpg)
[img width="28" style="Rhino Racks" height="30" style="MAX-WIDTH:100%;" src="https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Rhino-Rack/RLT500.html"][/p]
Over the winter I will look at building a removable roof rack that borrows some elements of the Coleman Colorado Sport. Rather than go length wise, the rack will go width wise. Brackets will be permanently mounted to the trailer sides but will not interfere with the cover. The cross piece will be easily removed.............................perhaps I can find another use for them when the camper is set up.
[img style="max-width:100%;" style="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/cobra5laddict/childrensmuseum8-5-08048.jpg" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/cobra5laddict/childrensmuseum8-5-08048.jpg"]
[p]That's an interesting idea, the mounts could be on the lower portion of the trailer with quick disconnects. There would be two horizontal bars with legs that ran vertically down the side of the trailer to the mounts like the soft top jeep rack pictured. Heck, this rack may work:)[/p][p]
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[img style="" style="max-width:100%;" src="https://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/B/4/B4141501_500.jpg"] [/p]
Quote from: @hiker74" source="/post/14532/thread" timestamp="1440449187I'm surprised someone hasn't modified a QS10 and removed the tonneau, added better seals between the bed tops and the box and added some clamps so you can add racking on top.
I've thought about it a time or two, but I cant think of a system that I would trust to keep it water tight without overly complicating the system.
I do think it's a worthwhile venture though b/c that tonneau seems to be the single largest point of complication in the system. I see many benefits from removing it including a nicer look and added security if you use locking latches for the top...
[quote source="/post/14534/thread" timestamp="1440451973" author="@cowfly"][p]I believe a couple of latches and at least a front seal would have to be installed to tow without the cover. This maybe a dry conditions/light rain only setup. This is why I like the tracks along the edges of the top, easy removal of the racks if needed. Since the top is a single piece, I believe the QS 6.0 should have been designed with a hardtop (sans cover) like the Jeep version. I'm assuming this is a weight savings of some type. Owning the off road version, I also like the legs and handles of the Jeep 6.0.
[/p][/quote]Now I see where you're going...
Maybe take baby steps and see if you can keep the water/light rain out first before you mount some tracks?
Regardless, I don't think you can go wrong with the Yakima tracks and towers.
Good luck!
Alright. Here's the quick draft plan for a roof rack.
Mandatory Requirements
1. Easily removable (measured in seconds, not minutes) to allow the trailer to open and close.
2. Support 150 lbs (one canoe plus 2 bikes?)
Optional Requirements
1. Have a secondary use/function.
2. Be able to use "standard" roof rack accessories.
[a href="http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rwgill/media/roof%20rack%201.jpg.html"]
[img style="max-width:100%;" src="http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/rwgill/roof%20rack%201.jpg"][/a]
[a href="http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rwgill/media/roof%20rack%202.jpg.html"]
[img style="max-width:100%;" src="http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/rwgill/roof%20rack%202.jpg"][/a]
I am a horrible artist.
Now to sort out some of the details.
Note: If Livinlite takes this idea and produces one before I build mine....................I will sell you the idea for a free roof rack and awning :)
I like the concept a lot. Gotta check the distance between the top rails. I think the width of the awning is going to be too wide for bikes. It's perfect for canoes and kayaks, but bike trays or mounts will need to custom at that width.
I have been researching bike carrying options ever since I bought my qs6 and it baffles me that there has not been a solution thus far. We do not have the extended rear deck and my idea was to put a bumper style receiver hitch that mounts onto bumper with U bolts, but when I called Livin Lite questioning the capacity or weight the bumper could hold my response was Don't do it! The rear bumper does not have the strength to withstand the torque the rack will place on it. There has to be somebody somewhere that has a solution!
Quote from: @subaruwx" source="/post/14717/thread" timestamp="1440980813I like the concept a lot. Gotta check the distance between the top rails. I think the width of the awning is going to be too wide for bikes. It's perfect for canoes and kayaks, but bike trays or mounts will need to custom at that width.
It is only a concept. Details will need to be figured out. I do not know if I have wall studs that will line up properly.
I saw another idea at the lumber yard today (bumper mounted ladder rack) that may work
The concept I have been thinking about is bending some flat stock metal as the anchor point. This will be hard to paint yall a picture but I'll try. Start off with flat stock under the tonneau cover bolted to the bottom of the bed. Put a 90* bend in it to go down towards the ground in between the trailer wall and tonneau cover. With the snaps several inches apart it should allow for the flat stock to go between while still being able to snap all snaps. Once you have cleared the bottom of the tonneau cover put another 90* bend outward going away from trailer an inch or two. Lastly another 90* bend going straight up to a height a couple inches above the trailer. Do this on all four corners. Then get some square tubing or round bar and join the 2 sides. Put a pin in the tubing to where you can remove the cross pieces for set up. Hopefully that makes sense...?
I think this is a winning idea.
I think a 3rd top rail more in the middle would work to provide support for any bike trays or fork mounts. It could go over or under the cross bar. How to locate the wall studs? Will a stud finder work just like it does on drywall?
[quote source="/post/14649/thread" timestamp="1440720920" author="@rob"]Alright. Here's the quick draft plan for a roof rack.
Mandatory Requirements
1. Easily removable (measured in seconds, not minutes) to allow the trailer to open and close.
2. Support 150 lbs (one canoe plus 2 bikes?)
Optional Requirements
1. Have a secondary use/function.
2. Be able to use "standard" roof rack accessories.
[a href="http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rwgill/media/roof%20rack%201.jpg.html"]
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/rwgill/roof%20rack%201.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/rwgill/roof%20rack%202.jpg)
[quote timestamp="1441120981" source="/post/14758/thread" author="@firefighteremt"]I have been researching bike carrying options ever since I bought my qs6 and it baffles me that there has not been a solution thus far. We do not have the extended rear deck and my idea was to put a bumper style receiver hitch that mounts onto bumper with U bolts, but when I called Livin Lite questioning the capacity or weight the bumper could hold my response was Don't do it! The rear bumper does not have the strength to withstand the torque the rack will place on it. There has to be somebody somewhere that has a solution! [/quote]
Use this idea at your own risk, but a few of us have done this and it seems to work well: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5rdWiw
Essentially I took the bumper of my 10.0 and added another piece of 2x4 tubing. If I recall it was 60" long and I ordered it off Amazon. I assume your bumper is the same as mine which means its a 2x4 bumper attached to a 2x3 frame rail. I had my new reinforcing piece notched so it indexed off the frame to help with any torsional load. So far I'm fully confident that it can handle a load of bikes with no problem.
-Sean
QuoteHow to locate the wall studs? Will a stud finder work just like it does on drywall?
It may be really easy.........look for screws on the Azdel board?!?
I tried with my stud finder last night (trailer closed and loaded). I am not 100% sure that I was locating studs...........or the benches or something else. As a last resort, I could simply remove the Azdel board. Removing the Azdel board is not something that my wife wants to see because we both know that other mods will follow..........like wiring for some interior LED lights :D
Tonight or tomorrow, I will open up the trailer.
Opened up the trailer and had a look. From the rear corner (road side) there is a stud at 4.5", then every 16". From the rear post (curb side), studs match until the door.
The plan so far:
Attach the rack at the corner studs (yellow).
There is a stud at approx 36" from the rear. Placing another rack here (blue) should allow easy use of standard commercial roof rack accessories.
*Not a picture of my camper.
[a href="http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rwgill/media/roof%20rack%203.jpg.html"]
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/rwgill/roof%20rack%203.jpg)The new, 3rd "top rail" will be adjustable in length and be used in place of the "cross bar" for the awning.
This seems to be on the right track...I assume the front and rear supports would take the majority of the load? I dont know if I could count on the studs on the door side of the camper to handle much weight, especially in terms of any lateral movement that may occur. For example I have seen my wall near the door bow in and out if someone leans on it getting in or out of the camper. So my concern would be about wind gusts hitting a load and pushing it side to side while strapped down. I assume a couple of little gussets would resolve that, but then it adds to the complexity of the system.
I might just be overly concerned over nothing though...