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Break away switch problem

Started by gnies, May 23, 2016, 09:10:30 PM

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gnies

Hi, my break away switch screw is broken and I don't really know how to place it back, I tried with a drill but I can't get my drill in that space it's too big. Anyone have a suggestion on how I could fix this? 






whoofit

If you must use power tools in a tight spot this is a cost effective light duty right angle drill adapter that has lasted far beyond what I expected out of it. There are more robust ones for a steeper price.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Right-Angle-Drill-Adapter-DWARA50/203867866


Question is did the screw shear off or did it fall out? I ask because this is a light duty tool and may not survive an encounter with an impact gun while cutting a new hole with a self tapping screw. The Al is thick there. If you do not want to extract the old screw with an extractor you may need to drill a new hole, make new threads with a tap, and insert a new fastener. Either way you will need a right angle adapter if the screw is sheered off.

You could mount the breakaway switch to the LP tank base as well saving some dollars.

gnies

Hi whoofit thank you for the suggestion! I will try to see if I can mount it to the propane tank base. The head of the screw broke and the rest of the screw is still in there

tinkeringtechie

Sounds like it did exactly what it's supposed to do... breaking away from the trailer... ba dum tish
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

peislander

If mounting to the propane tank support make sure your cover doesn't impact on the proper application of the switch. Also note that you should be able to mount that switch to any surface --- by that I mean to either the bottom, top, or sides of the tongue/yoke. Mount it anywhere you can fasten securely and where the yank cable can do its job. Avoid locations where the cable could be easily snagged. Snagging is not good.

whoofit

You are welcome, Paul. Those switches are mounted just above flush on the side of the tongue. When you add a dual LP tank base it needs to be lowered or else the LP tank rack base rests on it. In time it will sheer the screw. Is this what happened to you?


daplumbr

When I mounted my new one, I used the front screw that holds down the tank cover. It is in just the right place and holds it securely without having to drill a new hole in the frame. The broken off screw from the old one can just sit-stay forever. 

gnies

Quote from: @whoofit" source="/post/21477/thread" timestamp="1464124019You are welcome, Paul. Those switches are mounted just above flush on the side of the tongue. When you add a dual LP tank base it needs to be lowered or else the LP tank rack base rests on it. In time it will sheer the screw. Is this what happened to you?

Yes that is what probably happened to me! I bought a Right Angled Drill and I will try to fix it this weekend. Will post picture

gnies

What kind of screw should I use with aluminum?

thudd3r

a stainless sheet metal screw would be good since it is exposed to the elements, but a zinc coated one would work well too

whoofit

Stainless steel if you ever want to remove it years from now. Even if you use coarse self tapping screws I'd pre-drill first. Stainless doesn't have the strength of good steel fasteners in self tapping applications. Heads torque off easier and that Al is thick there.

I drilled and tapped a SS bolt in that piece of aluminum. No galvanic corrosion using SS on Al. I think PEI saw evidence of this recently...



gnies

I saw that there was Aluminium Screws self tapping would that work best?

charliem

[font size="3"]Paul,

Aluminum screws will be very weak. Stainless screws are weaker than steel, but usable if you're careful. The danger is torquing them too hard and breaking the heads off. Stainless steel and aluminum work quite well together. Use the recommended drill size to predrill the holes and work the screw in slowly. In thicker material you can even go one size larger (1/64") with the predrill.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

gnies

Even with a right angled drill I wasn't able to reach the tight spot. Here is what I did. The first screw I've put I predrilled the hole too small and broke the screw so I had to predrill another hole.



[attachment id="1461" thumbnail="1"]


daplumbr

[quote timestamp="1465341903" source="/post/21992/thread" author="@paul"]Even with a right angled drill I wasn't able to reach the tight spot. Here is what I did. The first screw I've put I predrilled the hole too small and broke the screw so I had to predrill another hole.





[/quote]That's just where my switch is now. Looks good. I angled mine a bit to the side the cable runs on (and bought a coiled cable) so the pin can pull smoothly if it (heaven forbid) ever needs to.