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Jack for Tire Change

Started by thedusty, March 21, 2016, 04:07:56 PM

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silverfox

I don't recall if I have ever seen a jack or lug wrench on my new 13QBB. Does this equipment come standard with the trailers? if so, where would it be located?

mitch

Quote from: @silverfox" source="/post/20557/thread" timestamp="1460666404I don't recall if I have ever seen a jack or lug wrench on my new 13QBB. Does this equipment come standard with the trailers? if so, where would it be located?
I don't think any of them come with jacks or wrenches.
Mitch
2013 13QBB
2015 Ford F-150
Anderson 3324 WDH

pinstriper

On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.
Let's eat, Grandma !
Let's eat Grandma !
Punctuation. It saves lives.

2014 14DBS
2013 4Runner | 2006 F-150 5.4 V8 (ruh ruh ruh)
2015 Hobie Outback

charleschapman

Any jack recommendations for us single axle types?

david

I just had an opportunity to use the roll up on a ramp (dual axles only) trick. It worked fine. I had to put a 2x6" under the ramp to get enough height so that the non lifted tire would turn free.

And another tip: I tried using a 3/8" drive breakover bar with a 19 mm socket. It wasn't strong enough. It takes a 1/2" drive bar to break loose the lug nuts as tightened at the factory.

Why did I remove a tire? Well we took our camper out last night to a nearby state forest for a shake down campout and I noticed that one of the four tires was nearly bald. The other three looked almost new. So I removed the wheel and tire and took it to Town Fair Tires for a replacement. They had one in stock and it was a Road Pioneer brand- $89.

The TFT guy said that the wear pattern was indicative of "belt shifting" and he thought an out of balance condition could cause it. I figure defective Chinese junk. But maybe Road Pioneer is Chinese junk as well.

BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?

David
David M

16TBS towed with a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder

charliem

[quote timestamp="1461008577" author="@david" source="/post/20647/thread"]
BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?

David[/quote][font size="3"] I have seen it a few times.[/font][font size="3"] I have always assumed it meant load range D.[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

gnies

[quote source="/post/20647/thread" author="@david" timestamp="1461008577"]

BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?

David[/quote]I think it mean ply bias tire and when it's R it means Radial.

charliem

[quote timestamp="1461008577" source="/post/20647/thread" author="@david"]
Why did I remove a tire? Well we took our camper out last night to a nearby state forest for a shake down campout and I noticed that one of the four tires was nearly bald. The other three looked almost new. So I removed the wheel and tire and took it to Town Fair Tires for a replacement. They had one in stock and it was a Road Pioneer brand- $89.

The TFT guy said that the wear pattern was indicative of "belt shifting" and he thought an out of balance condition could cause it. I figure defective Chinese junk. But maybe Road Pioneer is Chinese junk as well.

[/quote][font size="3"]David,

Road Pioneer? Maybe from the same stores that sell those well known batteries like ChargeMaster, EverLast, StartWell, RunsLong, NeverDead, etc.?[/font]  :D  
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

whoofit

[quote timestamp="1461020592" source="/post/20654/thread" author="@paul"][quote timestamp="1461008577" author="@david" source="/post/20647/thread"]BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?

David[/quote]I think it mean ply bias tire and when it's R it means Radial.
[/quote]D denotes a diagonal ply tire. B is bias and R is radial.

david

Thanks whoofit, that answer makes sense. I know that R refers to radial which is the way the cord is laid up on the tire. But what is diagonal vs bias (they seem like the same) and how is diagonal better for trailers. Both the old and the new tire I just bought are Ds.

David
David M

16TBS towed with a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder

daplumbr

[quote timestamp="1460669611" author="@pinstriper" source="/post/20560/thread"]On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.[/quote]As the lug nuts came tightened from the factory, there is no way the supplied crank with for the 19mm stabilizer jack nuts could break them loose. As David found, a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 19mm hex socket with lots of force was necessary. 

pinstriper

[quote timestamp="1461077486" author="@sandroad" source="/post/20669/thread"][quote timestamp="1460669611" source="/post/20560/thread" author="@pinstriper"]On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.[/quote]As the lug nuts came tightened from the factory, there is no way the supplied crank with for the 19mm stabilizer jack nuts could break them loose. As David found, a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 19mm hex socket with lots of force was necessary. [/quote]Probably couldn't move them with a standard lug wrench, either.

But the question was why no wrench or jack was supplied. The answer is, use the jack from the TV, and the socket size for the stab jacks.

I used to carry a 3' section of steel pipe in my horse trailer to slip over the arm of my "X" shaped lug wrench, for extra leverage. Once I had to stand on the pipe to get the lug bolt to move. I don't think that would be possible with the crankie thing.

Personally, I would use the Ryobi nut driver/impact wrench I have for the stab jacks.

Let's eat, Grandma !
Let's eat Grandma !
Punctuation. It saves lives.

2014 14DBS
2013 4Runner | 2006 F-150 5.4 V8 (ruh ruh ruh)
2015 Hobie Outback

ammobob

[p]Who needs a Jack[/p][p][attachment id="1337" thumbnail="1"][/p]

pinstriper

Let's eat, Grandma !
Let's eat Grandma !
Punctuation. It saves lives.

2014 14DBS
2013 4Runner | 2006 F-150 5.4 V8 (ruh ruh ruh)
2015 Hobie Outback

whoofit

Quote from: @david" source="/post/20666/thread" timestamp="1461070228Thanks whoofit, that answer makes sense. I know that R refers to radial which is the way the cord is laid up on the tire. But what is diagonal vs bias (they seem like the same) and how is diagonal better for trailers. Both the old and the new tire I just bought are Ds.

David
David, it was explained to me that D was chosen to differentiate between Diagonal Bias and Belted Bias tires. D was preferred as it rang well with Diagonal.

Bias tracks straighter. Important for trailers. Not that Radials can't do well there either. Radials are better for high speeds, not really relevant for trailers for safety reasons. Radials stand up to high temps better as well. Bias will corner better, with stiffer sidewalls, and track better by design. A sound choice for trailer tires all in all.

So as not to start a debate on which is better they are just different. I run Maxxis Radials for no particular reason. I wouldn't really care if they were Bias or LT for that matter.