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Final say on WDH

Started by pjcd, July 27, 2015, 11:21:21 PM

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tinkeringtechie

[quote source="/post/13756/thread" timestamp="1438115790" author="@leslie"]Your comments are starting to concern me. I have Camplite 21-BHS. I have the E2 WDH that also has anti-sway, trunnion bars that do not need to be removed when I back up the trailer. The techs at the dealer set it up for a light weight. I have not changed their settings.

The last time I weighed, the trailer was 4200 lbs. with the fresh water tank half full. Jeep Grand Cherokee towing capacity = 6,500 lbs. I check the coupler before every trip, whether it is on the way out or on the way home. Approximately 3,200 miles on it so far. So far, all is good.

I have towed the trailer under different sorts of conditions with my husband following me, driving our pickup (Ford Ranger, towing capacity 3,000 lbs). I wanted him to check for swaying. No problems. I have not felt any sway towing. It feels really solid. I really don't wish to remove this, or go to a different setup. But I am concerned.[/quote]If it's working well then I wouldn't change a thing. Just check the coupler every trip for signs of bending. Charlie's post on the subject shows some good pictures of where it starts. Also keep an eye on those L-brackets to make sure they're not shifting out of alignment. Even in my catastrophe everything survived except the coupler and the brackets.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

geezer

[p][font size="4"]We have a 2016 21BHS and tow with a 2014 f150,4x4,5.0L with tow[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]package.  When we purchased the TT I was more then willing to spring for a[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]weight distributing hitch with sway control.  The dealer was very confident[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]that this TT,TV combination would be fine without help, but he did include[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]friction sway control as part of the deal no charge. I thought this odd [/font][font size="4"]because [/font][/p][p][font size="4"]I would [/font][font size="4"]have bought the WDH from him.  My experience in the past has [/font][/p][p][font size="4"]generally been [/font][font size="4"]that salespeople p[/font][font size="4"]ush for more $$. I certainly wasn't going to [/font][/p][p][font size="4"]argue with his advice.  So far the trailer has been as easy to pull as he said.  We are[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]planning a Michigan to Florida trip in November.  I'm confident that my knuckles[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]will stay pink and my wife and I will still be speaking to each other when we get[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]there. 8-)[/font][/p][p][font size="4"]
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billmoore

I don't see how anyone with a half ton truck can get away without WDH with the LivinLite toy haulers. The floor plan puts literally everything in front of the axles except for the fresh water tank which is between the axles. With just full propane tanks and a battery, our tongue weight is right at the 500 lb limit of our tow vehicle, and it goes up from there as we add food, water, etc. The bikes load in the garage pretty much right over the axles, so they don't have a big impact on tongue weight, but by the time we are fully loaded up, we're at about 5400 lbs trailer weight and 650 lbs tongue weight. Well over our 500 lb limit without a WDH.

charliem

[font size="3"]Geezer,

You're in my "Don't need it, but you'll want it" group. Technically your truck will handle the CL without WDH or sway, but some WDH will greatly smooth out the porpoising and improve your ride. Most people prefer some sway control though many report no problem without.
[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

charliem

[quote source="/post/13757/thread" author="@tinkeringtechie" timestamp="1438116761"]If it's working well then I wouldn't change a thing. Just check the coupler every trip for signs of bending. Charlie's post on the subject shows some good pictures of where it starts. Also keep an eye on those L-brackets to make sure they're not shifting out of alignment. Even in my catastrophe everything survived except the coupler and the brackets.[/quote][font size="3"]Agreed. Just make sure the L-Bracket bolts stay tight.[/font]
Any 20 minute job can be stretched
to a week with proper planning

Charlie
NW Florida

david

Leslie:

There is some risk using a WDH on a Camplite, but minimal I think. No one has reported frame bending so far on this forum.

First realize that LL will never approve or recommend a WDH for their trailers. They must have gotten burned sometime in the past and they decided not to approve them. But that doesn't mean they can't be used safely.

If you have a trunion bar type WDH like the E2, then make sure that you use the lightest trunion bar available, 600 lb tongue weight or less. And don't crank them up too tight. I think taking an inch out of rear end TV sag is enough.

The risk is in going over a sharp driveway transition, like pulling in to a steep driveway from a high crowned road. That sharp transition causes the TV and the trailer to make a sharp V which pulls down hard on the attachment point which puts maximum stress on the frame. Take these very slowly to minimize the forces.

David

David M

16TBS towed with a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder

leslie

Hi David - 600 lb tongue weight trunnion bars is what I have. I plan to travel light in terms of what I have in the Jeep, as well as in the camper.
Located in Kentucky and Florida at present

geo92128

One more comment about a WDH. I have the Andersen and one of the reasons I like to use it is because it gives me piece of mind that the trailer will not pop off the ball when running down the HW. Never say never but when the hitch is tight to 7 or 8 threads, the hitch is so secure to the ball that I do not think it can possibly pop off. I have read on this forum of one person (possible more) where his trailer popped off the ball! I think the WDH helps with sway control and I think helps on every overpass when one experiences the huge dips or bumps (there should be a law against rough overpass transitions) when going over overpasses. My language gets ugly on occasion when crossing some overpasses. But I do feel somewhat comfortable due to the hitch being tightly attached to the ball via the WDH.

djsamuel

[quote source="/post/13744/thread" timestamp="1438093476" author="@pinstriper"]

I dunno how much it costs to replace the friction cone, or how long it will last, but I can't imagine that would be a significant problem unless they stop making the thing. $50 every 5 years ? meh


[/quote]As stated by others, the replacement is free.  I have about 6,000 miles on my Andersen and am nowhere near ready to replace it.  Some here have replaced their cones due to noise, but the replacements were sent free and the swap wasn't difficult.  

I didn't purchase the Andersen strictly for sway control but also to dampen bouncing, which it does very well.  It just provides an overall solid feel to towing, one that to me is well worth the cost.  
Camplite 21BHS / Ram 1500

Central Florida


thudd3r

if your th is a 2500 you really have no need for a wdh or sway control.  with a max tongue weight of 1500 lbs the need for weight distribution is out of the window and as for sway control (and this seems to be contrary to what most on this forum believe), you can simply load the trailer correctly so the tongue height is correct and the tongue weight is 10-15% of the trailer weight.

additionally, depending on the year of your th...it probably has automatic tsc built in (i believe 2010 or 2011 was the first year for it)

and as for using a wdh to reduce porpoising...you will have less that 500lbs of tongue weight and a max rating of 1500lbs of tongue weight for the truck (it is a 3/4 ton truck afterall)...you would need to park a sumo wrestler on the hitch to get it to porpoise

i am towing a vrv with about 200 extra pounds on the tongue and have never had an issue with sway, loaded or not, at any speed, even in very high cross winds (i did pick it up wyoming afterall)


save the $...skip the wd hitch



pjcd

I've towed for many years, I remember the first trailer I purchased, I didn't want a WDH, (at least not for what they wanted) and drove off the lot with the RV, I had a Fleetwood Ultra Lite and towed it with a 4x4 half ton Dakota, It was bouncy and the sway was noticeable. I've had a sway bar and WDH on every rig after that. Now I'm towing my 21RBS with a 2500 Silverado 4x4 diesel, I don't see the need for a WDH, but its just my opinion, a sway bar is a must for any TV / RV set up, I know not everyone will agree but in my experience it makes a more stable ride.

pjcd

Has anyone had any experience with the "ProPride" WDH, it looks interesting, but over complicated, (too many moving parts).

tinkeringtechie

Quote from: @pjcd" source="/post/14023/thread" timestamp="1438863175Has anyone had any experience with the "ProPride" WDH, it looks interesting, but over complicated, (too many moving parts).
The propride/hensley are supposed to be the best WDH available, but have a price tag to match. It looks like the propride just bolts on, so I don't see why it wouldn't work with the aluminum frame. The price is just out of this world.
2014 Camplite 21BHS

2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD 5.7L

pjcd

I looked at it, but passed on it and bought a Anderson WDH. I'm going to try it out next month, with out it on the way and with it on the way back from PA.

runningwriter

I've often wondered why TT manufacturers, for the most part, do not install shock absorbers on their product.  Wouldn't this reduce the need for sway control?  For that matter, it would extend the service life of everything in the TT.  I guess
that Quality is job #2.