Random Mods

[kodabear]

I've done a few minor mods/upgrades to our new 14DBS. First, I replaced the miserable thermostat with a digital. It illuminates for a few seconds when any button is pressed. I used rivets, which I found to give a much better result in the thin Azdel panel than screws.


[img style="" style="max-width:100%;" src="http://www.portfoliofotos.com/photos/i-6psGJ74/0/L/i-6psGJ74-L.jpg"] 

Since we don't watch much TV at home, and never have when camping, I repurposed the nice articulated TV mounting arm. The 14DBS is woefully short of counter space in the galley, so we now have a swing-away spice rack! The plastic rack was from the Container Store. Using a brad-point bit, I drilled a couple holes in the rack to match holes in the mounting plate, then fastened the rack to the plate with bolts and nuts, using washers on both sides to spread the stress. It does not interfere with access to the bed, even when swung out, but I expect we'll keep it folded back out of the way most of the time.



[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="http://www.portfoliofotos.com/photos/i-TTLHmzN/0/M/i-TTLHmzN-M.jpg"]


I guess it's true what some say: "If you own a camper, you don't need another hobby."

[joanne]

[quote source="/post/5425/thread" timestamp="1417975652" author="@icebear"]
Since we don't watch much TV at home, and never have when camping, I repurposed the nice articulated TV mounting arm. The 14DBS is woefully short of counter space in the galley, so we now have a swing-away spice rack! The plastic rack was from the Container Store. Using a brad-point bit, I drilled a couple holes in the rack to match holes in the mounting plate, then fastened the rack to the plate with bolts and nuts, using washers on both sides to spread the stress. It does not interfere with access to the bed, even when swung out, but I expect we'll keep it folded back out of the way most of the time.

[kycamper]

Icebear,

First, let me thank you for turning me on to what Sugra is. What a fantastic product with an even better story attached to it. Had never heard of it before, and now can't wait to get my hands on some!

Second...I am humbled by YOUR drawer fabrication. I will look into the Ilfa baskets ( our niece works at a Container Store, but we have none in Charleston ). I understand the boat in a bottle logic. Thought I would have to do the same with my wooden drawer project. Can you elaborate a little more on the fabrication of the support system? I would love to take advantage of some of the space in the pantry for that type of installation. My questions are: where did you purchase the metal?; how were the support pieces attached to each other? i.e. screws and nuts? (Wish I knew how to weld aluminum.) Did you purchase the baskets first and design the support system around them? 

This is a brilliant design and fabrication, and I would LOVE to copy it! Best type of flattery, you know!

I have just completed a sewer hose storage system for the rear bumper out of 5" fencepost and pvc gutter. Unfortunately, I can't take credit for the design.....others had posted their take on it on other forums. I just thought it was a great idea, not hard to do, and what in the world did LL think we could do with that 2 foot long storage that came with my Camp Lite?? I will post my interpretation of the theme after I attach it to the bumper and take some photos. 

If you wrote up a materials list, and some idea of any headaches you encountered in building your great modification, I know one guy in Charleston, SC who would be VERY grateful!!

Happy Trails!!

[kycamper]

I just visited the Container Store Site and now know what ELFA drawers are!! ( my wife knew about this stuff for years. We need a Container Store in Charleston!).

If I now understand it right, you purchased the drawers and rack and somehow assembled it in the cabinet??!!, i.e. " boat in the bottle"........

If so, any advice to avoid any unnecessary swearing and cursing??? I LOVE this stuff, and, honestly, would have use it instead of building my wooden drawer system. 

Oh well....at least it kept me out of the bars........?

[kodabear]

Thanks for your compliments, guys. Ilfa, Elfa, whatever. Glad you found it. Here's what worked for me:

First, you need a [a href="http://www.containerstore.com/shop/elfa/components/elfaDrawersAccessories?productId=10006089&N=80348"][font color="#19e632"]frame set[/font][/a]. I used a "Narrow 4-Runner" set (P/N 10013317.) It's 14" wide and 21" deep. As the name implies, it's capable of hanging four baskets, but our purposes were best served by using two [a href="http://www.containerstore.com/shop/elfa/components/elfaDrawersAccessories?productId=10009304&N=80348"][font color="#19e632"]baskets[/font][/a], a "1 Runner" mesh basket, and a "2 Runner" (P/Ns 10022530 & 10022531.) You can't really use the bottom runner, 'cause the basket wouldn't clear the door frame of the cabinet. The part numbers referenced are for the platinum color. It also comes in white.

I used bar clamps, similar to[font color="#19e632"] [a href="http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/StaplesProductDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogIdentifier=2&partNumber=234894&langid=-1&cid=PS:GooglePLAs:234894&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=234894&KPID=234894&kpid=234894&gclid=CjwKEAiAkpCkBRCtstKQo5ia5nESJACsCikRcKCYenLxDH3Z0EXODuZZ0Lcm0WLY_9i5f7lb3D_BERoCy5bw_wcB"][font color="#19e632"]these[/font][/a] [/font]to squeeze the frame components together for assembly inside the cabinet. This was necessary because the frameset will not go through the door opening (even if you remove the door frame from the Azdel) once assembled. Go ahead, ask me how I know. Believe me, it's good to have clamps that will act as spreaders too.  . OK, you also have to remove the Azdel partition between the under-counter cabinets in order to have adequate room to use the clamps. I have decided to leave the partition out permanently. Another little thing which you'll only understand if you're holding the corner fittings in your hand: I used the fittings that were supposed to go on the bottom corners on the side next to the wall. This allowed the frame to sit flat on the bottom of the cabinet, and gave the perfect standoff from the wall so the drawers clear the opening once you reinstall the door frame. Trust me. If you look at my photos while holding the fittings in your hand, it'll make sense. (If not, post something here and I'll take close-ups.) Oh, I also re-routed the gas line to the cooktop. No real modification was necessary, only removal of a hold-down clamp and manually moving the line above the drawer frame. Nothing scary.

These "instructions" only apply to the 14DBS. I have no experience with other units.

Edit: I used the mesh drawers, not the wire cage type. Less likely for stuff to fall through. YMMV.

[shovelhead]

Who's ready for a meetup at Icebears and Gleamb's place?  Mod guru's...

[kodabear]

Works for me! A bit chilly here right now (37F) but if y'all are game, I'm in!

[kycamper]

Come on down to Charleston. Springtime is by far the best time. Two great places to camp at. I would tend to go to the James Island County Campground. Real nice. Let me know if you're in town. We'll show you what "southern hospitality" is all about!!!!

[tinkeringtechie]

I'm totally going to steal your drawer idea. I was toying with the idea of making my own and I don't think I could do much better than this. I'm going to measure next time I'm out at the trailer though as I suspect the cabinet dimensions might be slightly different.

[kycamper]

tinkeringtechie,

Dimensions for the 21 RBS cabinet were 10' w x 14" d x 14" h for the case. I was constrained for depth due to the gas line to the stove. Had LL used 6" longer hose, or had brought the hose up closer to the outside wall, I would have chosen to build the drawers a little deeper....say 16". I toyed with the idea of lengthening the hose, but talked myself out of it. Don't forget to set the drawer fronts back from the  door to allow clearance for the door lock.  You'll need about 1 3/4" there. I bought center mounted drawer slides from Hardware Hut. com. Installing them was tricky. Very tight work area. You might want three drawers and make them deeper than I made mine. My drawers were about 2 1/2" deep and one was 3" deep. I was able to build drawers about 9 5/8" wide. You would lose 1" of width if you go with side mounted slides. I considered that, but wanted as much width as I could get. The box is set upon two 2 x rails ripped to fill the void below the door to the shelf below. I believe my dimension was 2 3/4". I glued these fillers to the aluminum shelf and screwed the box to the fillers. You can screw directly into the shelf. I just chose not to. Remember to leave a little gap on the hinge side to allow the drawer to extend out!

Good luck with your project.

[spot1]

Like the TV/Rack idea!

[kodabear]

Thanks, Bill. Actually the spice rack was the wife's idea. I wanted to put a shelf on the swing-away arm, to get more staging area for the galley, but she nixed that for the spice rack.

Hey folks, don't be too afraid of working on your gas lines. It's not all that hard. Yes, you have to be careful, you have to plan, plan, plan, and you need a couple of things you probably don't already own, like a flaring tool, but checking for leaks is pretty easy once you're done. Copper line is cheap, and the fittings aren't expensive either. Let's put it this way: do you think the people at the factory were as careful as you're going to be? That's what I thought.

[hdrehder]

[attachment id="541" thumbnail="1"] Made a rack to hold our Texas Highways magazines.  A few toiletries will fit at the base.  Didn't weigh it before I installed, but it's pretty light.  Designed it in DraftSight, used Baltic Birch plywood, cut the pieces with the laser cutter at a local maker space.