Just got back from a winter long stay in Key Largo backed by a week in St. Joe's Peninsula State park. I knew that I had a problem to address when I returned home since the countertop backsplash had warped and pulled away from the wall.
The problem begins because the faucet barely reaches into the sink. The spout only reaches 3 1/2" from the center of the faucet. Anything rinsed under it creates a splash that accumulates around the base of the faucet. The backsplash laps it up because there was no caulk bead under or in front of it. The only bead was at the top of the splash (the only attempt toward adhesion!).
Worse than that, the backsplash is styrofoam sandwiched between a laminate front and a very thin backer sheet of Masonite.
i'm thinking of leaving it off and caulking the deck of the counter to the aluminum wall. Any opinions?
The only alternative is to rest weight on each end and try to straighten out the warp. Then, I'm still left with a backsplash whose front laminate is bubbling up from the styrofoam substrate. What poor execution of a countertop build. It's possible to get too carried away in the pursuit of "lightweight".
I actually have an issue with the backsplash also. Not as severe as yours but the laminate has pulled away from the backing material in the center. I haven't got around to gluing it back yet and it's still secure on both ends so I'll have figure out some way of compressing the middle without causing a bubble somewhere else. I suppose I could pull the laminate off all the way to one end and just re-glue the whole strip. Once it warms enough for glue to stick I'll get it.
[p]I believe warping is the nature of the beast with that material they use. In apps like the countertop where its pinned down around the perimeter it's most likely gonna be fine. In apps where it is not secured warping is bound to happen in my opinion. Because of the layers.
I have a brand new never used dinette table made of the stuff and a marble could roll to and fro endlessly on it because of the major slump in the middle. Bowed is an understatement.[/p][p]
[/p][p]I have the unfortunate honor of needing to sell a similarly built product every now and then. They warp like mad unless all the planets are properly aligned.[/p]
If I have a problem with my backsplash while my camper is still under warranty, I am going to have a dealer repair it. I have found 2 dealers where I can bring my unit in for them to see what parts are needed, and retain my camper while the parts come in. The dealer will have the camper only long enough to do the work.
I don't think the place I bought mine is a dealer anymore, at least they don't show up when you search dealers on LivinLite's website. I think the nearest dealer is now 3 or 4 hours ways and I figure I probably care more about my camper then they do anyway. Glue I can do.
I am trying to unwarp it, now. Have it clamped and shimmed. If it straightens enough, I will try warming up the laminate to re-activate the contact cement (if that is what they used) with a hair dryer. With a roller, I should be able to bring the two surfaces back together. In my experience with styrofoam, not a lot of glues work well with it.
Elsewhere, the laminate is pulling away from the deck of the countertop in a couple small spots. Heat will be applied to those when the weather warms.
(Sigh)
[font size="3"]Dave,
You might be interested in my experience with delamination and my repair technique.
[a href="http://livinlite.proboards.com/thread/242/warning-counter-top-delamination"]http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/242/warning-counter-top-delamination[/a]
[/font]
Hey! You could always replace it with wood!!!
[p]Pricewise these are reasonable and they offer a good solution for counter edge glue up. When I glue seams I usually use blue painters tape and razor cut the edge of the tape on the pieces to be joined to protect from glue squeeze out. Several types of glues are compatible with Styrofoam, and make sure the glue is waterproof. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=three+way+clamp&tag=googhydr-20&index=tools&hvadid=36223225840&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10037936298370450139&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7q0rtbegtn_b [/p]
[p]Fasteddieb,[/p][p]
[/p][p]Aluminum square tube stock would be the ultimate fix. TA DA [/p]
Let the records show: heat from a hair dryer and pressure from a small roller worked well on the raised laminate.
Nice to know..
Our 16DB countertop delaminated in Nevada's dry Summer heat after just one season. It was replaced under warranty but the new countertop started doing the same thing almost immediately so we decided to replace it with a better material.
We looked at several solid-surface options including Corian and Paperstone but both were quite costly despite the small size.
Eventually we purchased a piece of butcher-block from Ikea and my husband cut, sanded and installed a replacement himself. It turned out really nice.
[quote source="/post/8444/thread" timestamp="1427312377" author="@gmalala"]Our 16DB countertop delaminated in Nevada's dry Summer heat after just one season. It was replaced under warranty but the new countertop started doing the same thing almost immediately so we decided to replace it with a better material.
We looked at several solid-surface options including Corian and Paperstone but both were quite costly despite the small size.
Eventually we purchased a piece of butcher-block from Ikea and my husband cut, sanded and installed a replacement himself. It turned out really nice.[/quote]Sounds great. Would love to see a photo.
[p]Here you go. Since counter space is so limited, we took the opportunity to extend the countertop out in front a bit.[/p][p]
[/p][p]
[attachment id="662" thumbnail="1"]
[/p]
Looks great!
[quote source="/post/8476/thread" author="@gmalala" timestamp="1427381020"][p]Here you go. Since counter space is so limited, we took the opportunity to extend the countertop out in front a bit.[/p][p]
[/p][p]
[/p][/quote]That looks really nice!
Very nice! Thanks gmalala
[quote source="/post/7924/thread" timestamp="1426536029" author="@dave"]Just got back from a winter long stay in Key Largo backed by a week in St. Joe's Peninsula State park. I knew that I had a problem to address when I returned home since the countertop backsplash had warped and pulled away from the wall.
The problem begins because the faucet barely reaches into the sink. The spout only reaches 3 1/2" from the center of the faucet. Anything rinsed under it creates a splash that accumulates around the base of the faucet. The backsplash laps it up because there was no caulk bead under or in front of it. The only bead was at the top of the splash (the only attempt toward adhesion!).
Worse than that, the backsplash is styrofoam sandwiched between a laminate front and a very thin backer sheet of Masonite.
i'm thinking of leaving it off and caulking the deck of the counter to the aluminum wall. Any opinions?
The only alternative is to rest weight on each end and try to straighten out the warp. Then, I'm still left with a backsplash whose front laminate is bubbling up from the styrofoam substrate. What poor execution of a countertop build. It's possible to get too carried away in the pursuit of "lightweight".
[/quote]Dave - Sorry to read about your backsplash problem. I thought I'd clarify a small mistake in your original description of how the splash is constructed. The thin backer laminate is not "masonite". It is a phenolic laminate backer sheet commonly known as the backer (non-exposed) grade of 'plastic laminate' or 'Plam'. Phenolic laminate backer sheet is the same as the decorative face sheet except it doesn't incorporate the printed decorate layer. All phenolic laminates, whether decorative or backer grade, are typically manufactured with multiple layers of kraft paper and phenolic resin that have been laminated under heat and high pressure. There are versions made with linen, nylon, and cotton fibers but they aren't common. Phenolic laminates are not damaged by water. Incidentally the 'Paperstone' product mentioned in this thread is also a phenolic laminate but much thicker than your typical 'Formica' or 'Wilsonart' plastic laminate. The kraft paper used in phenolic laminates is made with wood but it is so impregnated with the phenolic resin that it no longer can absorb water. Bakelite as was used in old distributor caps etc is basically the same resin but molded typically with wood flour instead of kraft paper. ---- At this point you are probably asking how does this guy know this stuff? -- or thinking "Jeesh, I bet this guy is the life of the party"!
Plastic laminate sheets will naturally curl. When used in furniture a 'sandwich' with a decorative face sheet, a core material, and a backer sheet are used to reduce warping. It would seem from your experience with the backsplash that with foam used as the core it isn't as stable as the manufacture likely intended. I don't think your warping had anything to do with water -- it may have more to do with the Florida heat. That said it is possible that the expanded polystyrene foam absorbed water but I won't get into that or you might fall into a deep coma!
[quote timestamp="1426536029" author="@dave" source="/post/7924/thread"]
"The problem begins because the faucet barely reaches into the sink"
[/quote]Fixed that, today. Replaced the factory faucet, with this one from HDepot. A much improved 'reach' into the sink.
[quote source="/post/9890/thread" timestamp="1429900048" author="@dave"][quote source="/post/7924/thread" timestamp="1426536029" author="@dave"]"The problem begins because the faucet barely reaches into the sink"
[/quote]Fixed that, today. Replaced the factory faucet, with this one from HDepot. A much improved 'reach' into the sink.[/quote]You might want to install the other way so the water doesn't fall out.