[p]Heavy rain on our 2 night trip this weekend. Dripping from the area where, what looks like, wood lags, holding the awning to the roof edge at the gutter. Dripping right down the wall, off the top of the window frame. Sad it's leaking but glad it's aluminum framed. First time the awning was deployed since new.[/p][p]
[/p][p]But wood lags?[/p]
Bummer on the leak. Lag bolts are used because the aluminum is relatively soft and they need to have coarse threads to get a good grip. Are you sure that's where the leak is occurring, or maybe further up on the roof?
It could be elsewhere Tinker. I'm thinking about trying some non staining dye to help determine the source. I think the entier roof line and light areas are going to need a thorough inspection.
The wood lags threw me for a loop. I really don't see sufficient sealant on the side that was leaking. Was pondering some rubber grommets/standoffs to act as a seal there.
Bummer, hope it's as easy to find and fix as mine was!
Yep, me too Surfsup. Considering the trailer sat around new on the dealers lot for 2 years I suspected there could be some unusual "new trailer" problem and this was one of them.
There is no evidence of the leak going on for years though. No mold, traces or lifting of the wall finish. I think we stressed the area on first deployment of the awning. It was not uncomfortable in any way. No wetness in the bed. No stressing about the sticks in the walls.
Could you all be kind enough to suggest some goop for a quick on the road repair assuming the wood lags are the issue? Anyone heard of improving the attachment points in any way? I'd like to be done with this area once and for all if possible.
You can't go wrong with silicone sealant for general sealing jobs, I use GE Clear... But definitely Dicor for the stuff on the roof.
[font size="3"]Dicor makes several types of sealant, available a CW stores. This seems to be a favorite in RV shops. I would stop at a CW and ask what their shop folks would recommend for your particular physical situation. Dicor makes a self-leveling compound that's widly used on roofs and horizontal surfaces.
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[p]I use regular Dicor, not the self leveling, to fill voids and valleys and then use EternaBond tape. You can get EternaBond in several colors and widths. Enclosed is a photo of one of my TT's showing EternaBond on one of the longer seams. The tape is very flexible and should last many years. [/p][p]
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Geocel Profile RV is a great caulk. Silicone won't last very long on an RV. You can vet it at Camping World. For sealing the joints on the roof, use the tape as suggested or Dicor self leveling sealant.
Thanks all.
That tape looks like real good stuff. I suspect I'll find a crack(s) or the lags will need sealing so some form of dispensed caulk will be the ticket here. The Dicor products are far away and there is cold/rain in the forecast. Next week will have to be soon enough. We'll get to the bottom of this...
Finally got around to finding and fixing this persistent roof leak. It was at the fore starboard corner transition between the curved aluminum front nose piece and the roof sheet itself. Three things learned.
First, this leak has been there for years (my TT was a 2013 leftover bought in 2015). It is obvious after witnessing the thick black gunk underneath the faulty seal. Gunk was cleaned out with a toothbrush, then stiff paint brush then Denatured Alcohol. Compressed air dried. Silicone there was replaced with Dicor self leveling injected deep into the crevice.
Second, silicone should be avoided whenever possible. It is a bugger to remove thoroughly where it is stuck inside of creases, holes, joints. Dicor does not stick well to it.
Third is a I love you, I hate you Camplite struggle. The construction materials of the build stood up extremely well to these [strong]years[/strong] of abuse by leaking. No apparent mold, delamination or discoloration issues inside. But, Hey Camplite,...WTF about the shoddy seams though? Dicor is bridging a 3/8" gap up there.....sheesh!
Just curious, I have a unused roll of eternabond tape at home, is the caulk put by the factory is silicone? I know that eternabond doesn't stick to silicone, so if I want to put some I have to remove the original caulk? I am also wondering what caulking they used vertically it it's black instead probably because I have the black trim option
[quote source="/post/9417/thread" author="@paul" timestamp="1429185900"]Just curious, I have a unused roll of eternabond tape at home, is the caulk put by the factory is silicone? I know that eternabond doesn't stick to silicone, so if I want to put some I have to remove the original caulk? I am also wondering what caulking they used vertically it it's black instead probably because I have the black trim option[/quote][p]All the vertical seams on mine is silicone, clear. I don't have the blackout package. There is black butyl tape under the trim work where the screw are embedded though.[/p][p]
[/p][p]The area where I found the leak is a transition between vertical and horizontal. A "fuzzy gray area" on when to stop and start the silicone because it is a radius. I continued down the radius vertically for a few inches with the Dicor. Hardly noticeable unless you are really looking for it.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Silicone sticks well to surfaces but when it separates there is no proper repair besides removing all of it and reapplying. I would not leave even a trace of it behind before applying the Eternabond, Dicor or the like..... Yours being black will be easier to see if removing. The clear stinks for that.
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I would be very careful with silicone on metal due to the corrosive properties when used with metal (just ask any windshield shop about customers bringing in vehicles with holes where the silicone ate through)
I contacted the factory about the caulking they used on my roof areas because it's the best I have ever seen, they said it is a Manus Bond 76-AM product.
I recently installed the new Winegard Auto antenna and used the Sikaflex 715 product from the RV store and it seems fine.
[quote source="/post/9419/thread" timestamp="1429187069" author="@davidb"]I would be very careful with silicone on metal due to the corrosive properties when used with metal (just ask any windshield shop about customers bringing in vehicles with holes where the silicone ate through)
I contacted the factory about the caulking they used on my roof areas because it's the best I have ever seen, they said it is a Manus Bond product.
I recently installed the new Winegard Auto antenna and used the Sikaflex 715 product from the RV store and it seems fine.[/quote]So the roof is non-silicone and the caulk on vertical surface is silicone?
On my Camplite, it looks like at least 4 sealants have been used in various places, so I don't think it's simply silicone for the vertical and self-leveling for the horizontal. GE makes a non-corrosive Aluminum and Metal silicone sealant that has a neutral (non-acidic) cure and contains a biocide for mold control. I re-siliconed some joints around the lights, over the door, and around the license plate. I have little confidence it will hold up to the stresses of travel, but we'll see this summer.
[p]I have one full-on horizontal bead of clear silicone on my roof area. It fills the groove that is formed by the attachment of the awning. The long awning retainer with a zillion screws along the roofline. Although it looks legit and done with care I suspect this was done at the dealer when they may have realized there was a leak somewhere.
Don't mean to cast aspersions but am curious if anyone else has this bead there.[/p][p]
[/p][p]I had a major gap in the seal at the license plate holder as well.[/p]
[quote source="/post/9492/thread" timestamp="1429266830" author="@whoofit"][p]I have one full-on horizontal bead of clear silicone on my roof area. It fills the groove that is formed by the attachment of the awning. The long awning retainer with a zillion screws along the roofline. Although it looks legit and done with care I suspect this was done at the dealer when they may have realized there was a leak somewhere.
Don't mean to cast aspersions but am curious if anyone else has this bead there.[/p][p]
[/p][p]I had a major gap in the seal at the license plate holder as well.[/p][/quote]
I had the same bead of silicone along the awning joint. I took it out and replaced with the GeoCell ProFlex RV caulking. MUCH better.
[quote source="/post/9494/thread" timestamp="1429268383" author="@djsamuel"][quote source="/post/9492/thread" timestamp="1429266830" author="@whoofit"][/quote]I had the same bead of silicone along the awning joint. I took it out and replaced with the GeoCell ProFlex RV caulking. MUCH better.[/quote][p]Thanks for confirming. There is some separation there along that seal. No leaks from it....yet...I'll replace it. That'll give me a chance at using the Geocell to try.[/p][p]
[/p][p]That Dicor takes forever to firm up so it appears. There must be a better product. It's been ~60 hours of setting a 45-68 deg no rain. Now, it's slight rain and the stuff is still like putty. Hope it holds. It's supposedly waterproof by now.
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[quote source="/post/9497/thread" author="@whoofit" timestamp="1429268914"][quote timestamp="1429268383" author="@djsamuel" source="/post/9494/thread"]I had the same bead of silicone along the awning joint. I took it out and replaced with the GeoCell ProFlex RV caulking. MUCH better.[/quote][p]Thanks for confirming. There is some separation there along that seal. No leaks from it....yet...I'll replace it. That'll give me a chance at using the Geocell to try.[/p][p]
[/p][p]That Dicor takes forever to firm up so it appears. There must be a better product. It's been ~60 hours of setting a 45-68 deg no rain. Now, it's slight rain and the stuff is still like putty. Hope it holds. It's supposedly waterproof by now.
[/p][/quote]You should be good. It never gets really hard, but it is tough and lasts a long time.
[quote source="/post/9531/thread" timestamp="1429308025" author="@djsamuel"][quote source="/post/9497/thread" timestamp="1429268914" author="@whoofit"][p]
[/p][/quote]You should be good. It never gets really hard, but it is tough and lasts a long time. [/quote]Thanks, DJ. It appears the leak is fixed. Had some decent rain yesterday and nothing leaked or washed away. I'm stoked.
I've done four caulking repairs on our 14DBS so far.
1. Had to replace a faulty OEM main door lock and used regular outdoor, clear silicone. Then learned from the forum that a hardier type is better.
2. Separation of sealant on the trailer license plate assembly. Used the Geocel Profile RV (black) on djsamuel's rec. It's thick, but seemed to cover well (and I like the black for our color combo).
3. Same problem and solution on the 30amp connection assembly.
4. Had a window leak on a trip to Caprock Canyon last week. Think it may have been a fluke with the rubber gasket creating a bathtub overflow effect. Had the windows open for the breeze. On return, saw a few separations of the sealant on the very top metal bar and treated again with the Profile RV.
I'm a newbie with outdoor sealants and appreciate all of the advice/questions on this forum. 2 questions:
1. Whoofit says, "I would not leave even a trace of it [old sealant] behind before applying [new]..." I found it a bear to remove the original vertical sealant, the worst with the window. Used fingernails, plastic knife and eventually had to resort to a box cutter... and still didn't get ALL of it off. Any advice?
2. Related, when examining the sealant on the roof, all looked like it was weathering well... except for the shower skylight which looks to be developing some cracks. With the difficulty removing the vertical material, I can't imagine how hard it would be to get the roof sealant off. Any advice?
To remove silicone on painted surfaces that are panted with quality auto paint I use a plastic scraper, fingernails then work my way to a scrubbing sponge with mineral spirits to get the final residue off. Degrease afterward with Denatured Alcohol. They sell chems for this application but I've never tried them.
The roof sealant comes off easy in comparison. Metal scraper down to steel wool, degrease with denatured again.
[quote source="/post/9631/thread" timestamp="1429551356" author="@whoofit"]To remove silicone ....
[/quote]Thanks whoofit!
[p]Get several of these to get rid of that pesky silicone , available at Wal Mart and other big box stores.[/p][p]
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[/p][p]A vinyl eraser will help with removal of the smaller bits and general cleanup. Also, experiment and use a Pink Pearl eraser, it may work better?? [/p][p]
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