I am in the process of building/installing drawers for under the stove cabinet, and will post pictures ( if I can figure out how ) when I am finished.
I would like to know if anyone has built a pullout for the storage area? I had read about someone using garage door hardware, but cannot find any pictures or info about that install. Pantry pullout hardware for 500# is VERY costly. I am tossing ideas around in my head and can use any help out there.
Also....I had asked if anyone had rerouted the fresh water drain to the side of the trailer ( where it belongs!!??). I am concerned about removing the existing spout and then how I would make a connection to some piping without opening up a can of worms. Am I biting off more than I can chew? Crawling under the trailer and getting wet is absurd. Thanks and Happy Trails....
[quote timestamp="1416929436" source="/post/5286/thread" author="@gleamb"]I had asked if anyone had rerouted the fresh water drain to the side of the trailer ( where it belongs!!??). I am concerned about removing the existing spout and then how I would make a connection to some piping without opening up a can of worms. Am I biting off more than I can chew? Crawling under the trailer and getting wet is absurd. Thanks and Happy Trails....[/quote][font size="3"]The existing drain is about in the best place it can be given a bunch of practical restrictions. I would be nice if it were lower in the tank to drain more completely, but that would require it being on the bottom of the tank and very vulnerable to road damage. Any connection to existing plumbing would further degrade the draining effectiveness. You could add a short hose from the existing drain cock to a side mounted drain, but make sure it slopes downward away from the FW tank.
If you're worried about crawling under the trailer think about how you're going to access the spare tire on the road. That's a bigger hassle :P.
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Getting to the spare tire would be the result of a really bad day, and a necessity. Getting to the fresh water spigot is more of a recurring task, and you can't do it without getting wet. I would like to unscrew the existing spigot, insert a threaded nipple to which I would attach a hose and route it to the side of the trailer, with a valve at that location. I am concerned that I might damage the existing spigot and then " what???". The tank looks like it is welded in place and would be a nightmare to replace. And the trailer is BRAND NEW!!! My wife would murder me.
[font size="3"]Yes, depending where you live, draining is a recurring and necessary task. I'll look next time I'm under the trailer, but I think the tank is held in with bolted brackets just like the two waste tanks. However, removing and replacing it would be a PITA. Since the tank is polyethylene the fittings are probably spin-welded in place. I thought the valve was threaded into the fitting and could be replaced with a hose barb. [/font][font size="3"]If you damage the spigot itself it should be replaceable. [/font][font size="3"]The hose could be run to the side provided you maintained an incline so it would drain.
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On my 16DB the freshwater tank is above the axels. I don't think it's practical in my situation to run a drain line to the side. As far as completely emptying the tank my trick (assuming I plan ahead and remember before I leave) is the last time I camp with the trailer open the stopcock and let it drain as I drive down the road. The natural sloshing on hills etc. means the tank is virtually empty by the time I get home.
[font size="3"]Good idea on driving with the drain cock open......if you remember beforehand. Being a dreamer, I always return home hoping for one more outing. And I live in Florida where freezing is less frequent and less predictable. So I'll pass on another suggestion: The tank can be tipped toward the drain cock using the tongue jack. My drain is on the front side of the tank [/font][font size="3"]so I lower the tongue below level[/font][font size="3"]. Adding blocks under a wheel on each side can help. Later, when you return the tongue to level any remaining water will be below the drain level. A bit of ice in the tank below the fittings will do no damage.
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[quote source="/post/5296/thread" timestamp="1417009671" author="@charliem"][font size="3"]Good idea on driving with the drain cock open......if you remember beforehand. Being a dreamer, I always return home hoping for one more outing. And I live in Florida where freezing is less frequent and less predictable. So I'll pass on another suggestion: The tank can be tipped toward the drain cock using the tongue jack. My drain is on the front side of the tank [/font][font size="3"]so I lower the tongue below level[/font][font size="3"]. Adding blocks under a wheel on each side can help. Later, when you return the tongue to level any remaining water will be below the drain level. A bit of ice in the tank below the fittings will do no damage.
[/font][/quote][p]Excellent point about residual water. People hear "ice" and think it's like acid or something. Ice causes damage by expanding in a space that has no room. The fresh water tank has plenty of room for expansion. Pipes and fittings, and little chambers inside a pump or valve, not so much.[/p][p]
[/p][p]In fact, I think our plumbing is all PEX, so they should be able to flex with the ice and not burst. So it's valves and fittings and pumps that get you.[/p][p]
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PEX tubing can burst with ice. Had to fix a split in our dock water line last spring.
But you are right about not being too anal about leaving water. Water freezes on top and if there is room for expansion, like water, waste and grey water tanks it rarely does damage but beware of valves, see below.
And yes PEX fittings are most vulnerable. If they freeze with water inside they can push the tubing out and cause a leak. Fairly easy to fix- loosen up the fitting and jam the tubing back in. Sometimes you will have to heat the tubing with a hair dryer to get it pliable enough to go back onto the fitting barb.
The most vulnerable are ball and plug valves like you find on drain valves. If you turn the valve off when there is still water above it will trap water inside the valve cavity. It will then freeze and destroy the valve. So even though a little water left in the tank won't hurt the tank it will destroy the valve if the tank is still draining when you shut it off.
David
[quote source="/post/5302/thread" timestamp="1417019221" author="@david"]
The most vulnerable are ball and plug valves like you find on drain valves. If you turn the valve off when there is still water above it will trap water inside the valve cavity. It will then freeze and destroy the valve. So even though a little water left in the tank won't hurt the tank it will destroy the valve if the tank is still draining when you shut it off.
David[/quote][font size="3"]And I assumed, but should have added: Leave the drain valves open until Spring.
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