I hate shower faucets with separate hot and cold knobs. It always takes longer than it should to find the right temperature, which means wasted precious water and grey tank capacity. I find single lever faucets to be physically easier to use and also easier to set the temperature. Luckily there's a direct replacement faucet that's only $30 from Dura Faucet. It literally took 5 minutes to install. Old one coming out:
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New one installed:
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The original faucet is not something I would choose, but I am not sure what I would do to replace it. Agree with you about wasting our limited amount of water. I am still looking.
I found the "perfect" h2O temp or me and simply put a dot of finger nail polish on each faucet and on the stationary part of the fixture. Match up the dots and BANG very little or no adjusting
[quote source="/post/3581/thread" timestamp="1410815128" author="@mdp"]I found the "perfect" h2O temp or me and simply put a dot of finger nail polish on each faucet and on the stationary part of the fixture. Match up the dots and BANG very little or no adjusting [/quote]Good idea thanks for sharing!
[font size="3"]Turns out you'll use the same amount of water waiting to achieve the desired temp. The same amount of hot water has to come from the heater to the shower. In fact, if the cold water is flowing while the hot water is warming up you're probably using more water. I usually turn on the hot side first and wait until I feel it warming, then adjust the temp with the cold valve. Works very well. Also, the mixed temp depends on the individual temps of the hot and cold sources. The hot is pretty consistent, but the cold depends on where it's coming from: the fresh tank or an underground pipe. This will vary the mixed temp for any fixed setting of the mixing valve(s). I found one place in hot Florida where I had to back off on the hot valve because the cold water was already very warm ::).
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I save grey tank capacity by running the hot water through the outside hose until it is hot.
[quote source="/post/3581/thread" timestamp="1410815128" author="@mdp"]I found the "perfect" h2O temp or me and simply put a dot of finger nail polish on each faucet and on the stationary part of the fixture. Match up the dots and BANG very little or no adjusting [/quote]I tried this but found that my cold temperature varied too much to be reliable and the valves themselves were also extremely sensitive, so even if you had it lined up just a couple degrees off would be totally different.
[quote source="/post/3585/thread" timestamp="1410820441" author="@pinstriper"]I save grey tank capacity by running the hot water through the outside hose until it is hot.[/quote][font size="3"]So do you go outside and run the sprayer hose until hot, then jump back inside for a shower? I guess that would work, but a PITA. Another approach might be to run the hot through the shower hose into the potty until hot. Usually the black tank is not the limiting factor and it needs water anyway, but that's also a PITA. BTW the shower head uses about 2 gpm so you can time how long for hot water to start flowing and guess how much extra water is going into the gray tank.
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[quote source="/post/3590/thread" timestamp="1410824382" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/3585/thread" timestamp="1410820441" author="@pinstriper"]I save grey tank capacity by running the hot water through the outside hose until it is hot.[/quote][font size="3"]So do you go outside and run the sprayer hose until hot, then jump back inside for a shower? I guess that would work, but a PITA. Another approach might be to run the hot through the shower hose into the potty until hot. Usually the black tank is not the limiting factor and it needs water anyway, but that's also a PITA.
[/font][/quote]That's a neat idea actually. I've been researching a method for transferring grey contents to the black tank and this might help a little bit.
I got a book about RVing, don't ask me which one, as I have several, and I am reviewing them now, as I am getting closer to the delivery date of my Camplite. ANYHOW, this book said that they saved the water they used warming up the shower water in a bucket, and used that to help flush their toilet when they used it. They also kept a spray bottle of water in the bathroom to spray the toilet if it weren't clean after flushing. Haven't tried any of this yet.... still waiting...
[quote source="/post/3590/thread" timestamp="1410824382" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/3585/thread" timestamp="1410820441" author="@pinstriper"]I save grey tank capacity by running the hot water through the outside hose until it is hot.[/quote][font size="3"]So do you go outside and run the sprayer hose until hot, then jump back inside for a shower? I guess that would work, but a PITA. Another approach might be to run the hot through the shower hose into the potty until hot. Usually the black tank is not the limiting factor and it needs water anyway, but that's also a PITA. BTW the shower head uses about 2 gpm so you can time how long for hot water to start flowing and guess how much extra water is going into the gray tank.
[/font][/quote][p]Actually I haven't used the shower yet. But that's what I do for the kitchen sink, so save grey water space.[/p][p]
[/p][p]And in fact whenever I can, I use the outdoor station to wash dishes and either put the water in the brush, or use it to drown the campfire before going to bed (dinner) or going away for the day (breakfast).[/p][p]
[/p][p]I have, however, washed my hair outside.[/p][p]
[/p][p]If I was boondocking, I'd wash my hair first with the cold water as the hot came through. Less of a shock to the system than a cold shower over all. And I know I'd be showering first, so my bitter half would get the full benefit of the hot water.[/p][p]
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[quote source="/post/3592/thread" timestamp="1410825910" author="@tinkeringtechie"][a href="/post/3592/thread"]<abbr data-timestamp="1410825910000" class="time" title="Sept 15, 2014 19:05:10 GMT -5">Sept 15, 2014 19:05:10 GMT -5</abbr>[/a] [span][a href="/user/2" title="@tinkeringtechie"][span]tinkeringtechie[/span][/a][/span] said:[font size="3"]
[/font]That's a neat idea actually. I've been researching a method for transferring grey contents to the black tank and this might help a little bit.[/quote][font size="3"]I'm sure you've thought of it, but if not, collapsible plastic wash tubs are good for catching dish washing water in the sink. Then you empty the tubs into the potty. The soapy water is good for the black tank. They should fit your new sink. [a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/collapsible-tub/72923http://"]WASH TUB[/a].
Let me know what you come up with on the gray water transfer. Obviously there are pumps, but how best to hook into the tanks. Another approach is to add another gray tank below, but probably still requires a pump and/or separate sewer hose connection.
On another subject, I've been thinking how to protect exposed plumbing during occupied trips in sub-freezing temps. The shower and other supply lines are exposed underneath. Not worried about the three tanks, but the small supply lines are vulnerable to freezing. [/font][font size="3"]Plugin 120V heat tapes don't work if you don't have AC or if you're driving on the road. [/font][font size="3"]Thinking a small circulating pump to take hot water from the WH and pump it through small hoses run along side the cold supply lines and back to the cold side of the WH. In places the hot supply lines themselves could be used for the runs. This would use minimal battery power for the pump, but use the gas WH for the major energy source.
This would only be for occupied camping trips where the interior would be heated. It would not replace winterization for longer periods. I've also looked at electric heat tape run from an adjustable DC/DC inverter. 70-90 volts on a 120V pipe tape should work, but it would be a strain on the battery.
Your thoughts?
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[quote source="/post/3606/thread" timestamp="1410873086" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/3592/thread" timestamp="1410825910" author="@tinkeringtechie"][a href="/post/3592/thread"]<abbr data-timestamp="1410825910000" class="time" title="Sept 15, 2014 19:05:10 GMT -5">Sept 15, 2014 19:05:10 GMT -5</abbr>[/a] [span][a href="/user/2" title="@tinkeringtechie"][span]tinkeringtechie[/span][/a][/span] said:[font size="3"]
[/font]That's a neat idea actually. I've been researching a method for transferring grey contents to the black tank and this might help a little bit.[/quote][font size="3"]I'm sure you've thought of it, but if not, collapsible plastic wash tubs are good for catching dish washing water in the sink. Then you empty the tubs into the potty. The soapy water is good for the black tank. They should fit your new sink. [a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/collapsible-tub/72923http://"]WASH TUB[/a].
Let me know what you come up with on the gray water transfer. Obviously there are pumps, but how best to hook into the tanks. Another approach is to add another gray tank below, but probably still requires a pump and/or separate sewer hose connection.
On another subject, I've been thinking how to protect exposed plumbing during occupied trips in sub-freezing temps. The shower and other supply lines are exposed underneath. Not worried about the three tanks, but the small supply lines are vulnerable to freezing. [/font][font size="3"]Plugin 120V heat tapes don't work if you don't have AC or if you're driving on the road. [/font][font size="3"]Thinking a small circulating pump to take hot water from the WH and pump it through small hoses run along side the cold supply lines and back to the cold side of the WH. In places the hot supply lines themselves could be used for the runs. This would use minimal battery power for the pump, but use the gas WH for the major energy source.
This would only be for occupied camping trips where the interior would be heated. It would not replace winterization for longer periods. I've also looked at electric heat tape run from an adjustable DC/DC inverter. 70-90 volts on a 120V pipe tape should work, but it would be a strain on the battery.
Your thoughts?
[/font][/quote]The front runner right now is just to attach my gate valve flusher on the outside and then open both valves. That won't really "empty" the grey into the black, but they will equalize. There's the potential for black water to make its way over to the grey, but the clear part of the valve should let me keep an eye on it. Note: this isn't possible without the extra gate valve otherwise you'll take off the cover and a bunch of dirty water will fall out before you can attach the hose.
On your heater issue I'd look into buying some more of whatever resistive wire they're using in the fridge heater frame. Seems to work with 12V and is relatively low power. Shouldn't tax your system too much when the vehicle is running.
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[img style="tinkeringtechie Avatar" src="http://s10398.storage.proboards.com/5560398/a/0qvtSUM1LmGy6SbRKIGo.png"][/div][/div][quote source="/post/3607/thread" timestamp="1410878237" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3606/thread" timestamp="1410873086" author="@charliem"][/quote]The front runner right now is just to attach my gate valve flusher on the outside and then open both valves. That won't really "empty" the grey into the black, but they will equalize. There's the potential for black water to make its way over to the grey, but the clear part of the valve should let me keep an eye on it. Note: this isn't possible without the extra gate valve otherwise you'll take off the cover and a bunch of dirty water will fall out before you can attach the hose.
[font size="3"]Old time campers used to call this equalizing. I should work, but it's so non-esoteric. Just keep your second gate valve handy and remember the sequence[/font] :-[.
On your heater issue I'd look into buying some more of whatever resistive wire they're using in the fridge heater frame. Seems to work with 12V and is relatively low power. Shouldn't tax your system too much when the vehicle is running.
[font size="3"]The resistance wire is hard to find and expensive and you have to have a pretty good approximation of the total length to specify the desired resistance/ft. I liked the idea of the 120V heat tape run from an adjustable DC source since it's available in various lengths and the heat and power can be controlled by the inverter. The tape is nominally 7watts/ft at 120v which I think would be overkill for my application. Therefore I drop the voltage to 60-90 volts and save the battery. But that still depends on battery power when dry camping. I'm really thinking through the circulating hot water idea. Small dc pumps used for computer processor cooling are available, inexpensive, and low power draw. The idea is to use the propane heat source already on board (WH) and only control and distribute with DC power. Add some temperature sensors and we have another function for your micro controller. :)
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