[font size="3"]With the factory now supplying an upgraded 8" mattress the original gas struts are at their limit in lifting the bed. With an additional 2.5" foam topper (yes, my wife can feel that one pea under a stack of mattresses) the struts were completely overpowered. I replaced them with twenty inch 60# struts from CW. Ten minute job; problem solved.
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Could you post a link please? I am having the same issue. I see "large bed struts" on CW. Are those the ones?
Thanks
[font size="3"]CW calls them gas props. Their search function isn't too smart.
[a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/gas-prop-20in-60lbs/49806"] Link to Gas Prop[/a]
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Thanks Charlie, this is on my to do list from the wife. Did you happen to notice what the rating was for the original struts? I'm curious how much of a boost it was.
[quote source="/post/3008/thread" timestamp="1409114819" author="@tinkeringtechie"]Thanks Charlie, this is on my to do list from the wife. Did you happen to notice what the rating was for the original struts? I'm curious how much of a boost it was.[/quote][font size="3"]Yes. The originals were 140 Newtons, about 31 lbs. You easily get 40s, 60s, or more at CW. I thought 40s would still be marginal, but 60s work great.
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This will beat the 2x4 I used to prop up under the bed when I needed to get something or work on the water heater. It always felt a bit like a guillotine but I just hoped karma had my back.
I just ordered mine and wanted to add that the bottom bunk on the BHS uses the same strut as the main bed. I'll report back once I get it about whether the same upgrade is sufficient.
Be careful when you replace the struts with a bigger size(more weight capacity). I replace the strut on the bunk bed, which was a simple pop off, pop on, but the extra strength ripped the bracket off of the sheet metal (under the bunk). I had to put a piece of aluminum on a diagonal and then attach the bracket to that. Now it works fine.
[font size="3"]Not a problem on the main bed because both ends of the struts are attached to 1" square tubing, but sheet metal could be a problem. Glad you got it fixed.
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Quote from: @cl21bhs" source="/post/3334/thread" timestamp="1409969815Be careful when you replace the struts with a bigger size(more weight capacity). I replace the strut on the bunk bed, which was a simple pop off, pop on, but the extra strength ripped the bracket off of the sheet metal (under the bunk). I had to put a piece of aluminum on a diagonal and then attach the bracket to that. Now it works fine.
Can you post a picture of the modification? I'm curious if I'll run into the same problem.
This is what it looks like after the repair:
[attachment id="343" thumbnail="1"]
Here's what mine currently looks like:
[attachment id="346" thumbnail="1"]
That's how it came from the factory. Looks pretty stout.
cl21bhs- is that what your's looked like before it ripped out?
No, yours looks like it has an extra piece of sheet metal. Give it a try, just stand clear. You could always reinforce if it doesnt hold.
Steve
[quote source="/post/3419/thread" timestamp="1410228233" author="@cl21bhs"]No, yours looks like it has an extra piece of sheet metal. Give it a try, just stand clear. You could always reinforce if it doesnt hold.
Steve[/quote]Thanks. Sounds like they may have already heard reports of it ripping out and decided to reinforce it.
[quote source="/post/3378/thread" timestamp="1410148450" author="@tinkeringtechie"]
Here's what mine currently looks like:
That's how it came from the factory. Looks pretty stout.
cl21bhs- is that what your's looked like before it ripped out?
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The underside of the lower bunk in my 21BHS is entirely aluminum sheeting. It is a 2013 model.
[quote source="/post/3420/thread" timestamp="1410230771" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/3419/thread" timestamp="1410228233" author="@cl21bhs"]No, yours looks like it has an extra piece of sheet metal. Give it a try, just stand clear. You could always reinforce if it doesnt hold.
Steve[/quote]Thanks. Sounds like they may have already heard reports of it ripping out and decided to reinforce it.[/quote][font size="3"]Continuous improvement. Respond to customers feedback. Sounds good to me.[/font] :)
[quote source="/post/3423/thread" timestamp="1410265760" author="@djsamuel"][quote source="/post/3378/thread" timestamp="1410148450" author="@tinkeringtechie"]Here's what mine currently looks like:
That's how it came from the factory. Looks pretty stout.
cl21bhs- is that what your's looked like before it ripped out?
[/quote]The underside of the lower bunk in my 21BHS is entirely aluminum sheeting. It is a 2013 model.[/quote]Interesting. Mine's a 2014 and it's just Azdel. Same with the upper bunk.
[quote source="/post/3427/thread" timestamp="1410269825" author="@tinkeringtechie"]
[quote source="/post/3423/thread" timestamp="1410265760" author="@djsamuel"]
The underside of the lower bunk in my 21BHS is entirely aluminum sheeting. It is a 2013 model.
[/quote]Interesting. Mine's a 2014 and it's just Azdel. Same with the upper bunk.
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Both the upper and lower bunks are aluminum. I wonder if aluminum is under the Azdel. Perhaps they tried to give it a more finished look.
[quote source="/post/3438/thread" timestamp="1410277945" author="@djsamuel"][quote source="/post/3427/thread" timestamp="1410269825" author="@tinkeringtechie"]
Interesting. Mine's a 2014 and it's just Azdel. Same with the upper bunk.
[/quote]Both the upper and lower bunks are aluminum. I wonder if aluminum is under the Azdel. Perhaps they tried to give it a more finished look.[/quote]Could be... it feels very sturdy, not hollow at all. I'd be interested to see what the internal construction of the bunk is.
My 21bhs is also a 2013 and the top and bottom bunk are sheet metal. It does sound like they covered to give a better finished look.
I installed all three struts over the weekend and so far it's working well. It was a pain to install the bunk strut because it's always partially compressed. Not so easy to pull 60lbs with one hand while awkwardly crouching over a bunk. It might be worth trying the 17" version.
We ditched the factory mattress for a real queen. I had read this thread before, but I am still not certain how to determine the size of the strut upgrade. Master Lift makes the original struts and mine are marked ML 34-30. They measure 20" from pivot to pivot. From what I read on an ebay site, I can easily upgrade to 100 to 130 # struts. I am assuming ( there I go again ) that the 30 means 30#. How can I determine the force needed to hold up the new mattress? It felt a little heavy on my head, so I fabricated a custom stick to use to hold it open. Any help from you gentlemen is greatly appreciated.
Quote from: @gleamb" source="/post/5924/thread" timestamp="1420846876We ditched the factory mattress for a real queen. I had read this thread before, but I am still not certain how to determine the size of the strut upgrade. Master Lift makes the original struts and mine are marked ML 34-30. They measure 20" from pivot to pivot. From what I read on an ebay site, I can easily upgrade to 100 to 130 # struts. I am assuming ( there I go again ) that the 30 means 30#. How can I determine the force needed to hold up the new mattress? It felt a little heavy on my head, so I fabricated a custom stick to use to hold it open. Any help from you gentlemen is greatly appreciated.
[font size="3"]You don't say what the original mattress was that you discarded. My 2014 RBS came with a decent 8" mattress, but I got the impression it was a fairly new upgrade. The earlier models we saw while shopping had a much thinner mattress. My RBS came with 20" struts rated at 140 Newtons which converts to 31#. Best I can find on your ML 34-30 they are about equivalent, just a different vendor. I used 60# struts which work fine for the OEM 8" mattress with a 2-3" foam topper. Without the topper the 60 pounders are still OK, but 40s would probably work too. Unless you're short on vitamins it's better to have too much than too little. It's just harder to close, but too little won't hold the bed open. Definitely 130# would be overkill and might even eject you through the roof!
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The original mattress was about 7 1/2" thick, black and VERY light. The mattress we installed is a standard Sealy type, and is easily three times heavier. I may bring a scale into the trailer and see if I can actually determine how much weight I am lifting. I might call Master Lift and see if they can be of help. I am still a little confused, charliem....if 130# is too powerful, what do you think I would need?
[quote source="/post/5926/thread" timestamp="1420861308" author="@gleamb"]The original mattress was about 7 1/2" thick, black and VERY light. The mattress we installed is a standard Sealy type, and is easily three times heavier. I may bring a scale into the trailer and see if I can actually determine how much weight I am lifting. I might call Master Lift and see if they can be of help. I am still a little confused, charliem....if 130# is too powerful, what do you think I would need?[/quote][font size="3"]I think I'd go with two 60# struts. I don't know how close you are to a Camping World, but they will exchange if you find you didn't get it right the first time. As long as you don't damage the struts and save the packages you can exchange them. Even if you weigh the lift it requires some fancy math and geometry to figure the required struts. If you do call ML be sure to have the dimensions, attachment points, and angles available. I'm really going to be amazed if they offer to help you. But we can hope ;).
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I could not find the right info regarding the Master Lift supports anywhere, so I did a google search. I was very impressed by a site I found called Hatchlift.com. If you go to their site, they have hatch lift kits, bed lift kits, replacement springs and RV accessories. They also have good videos of how to install the above mentioned items. There are charts and diagrams to help determine your needs. I was still a little "iffy" about the size of the upgraded struts, so I emailed them with my questions. I was pleased to get a prompt reply. According to my conversations with Gary at Hatchlift.com, he gets requests like mine all of the time. We are going to go with 90# struts. I will see if they are too strong. If so, Hatchlift.com has a very fair exchange policy. I always feel lucky when I find this type of company on the web....one that has a very professional, easy to use website, friendly and responsive owners and good products. I bet I'll be using them for some lifts for the storage area! I'll update y'all when I install them. Until then....Happy Trails!
Thanks for the info. I'll have to bookmark that site.
[attachment id="594" thumbnail="1"][attachment id="595" thumbnail="1"]Here's the finished upgrade. Got the bed lift kit from HATCHLIFT.COM after discussing my problem with Gary there. He recommended 120#. They were a snap to install and work like a charm. Could have downsized it a bit, but I think this will do fine!!
[quote timestamp="1423144414" source="/post/6523/thread" author="@gleamb"]Here's the finished upgrade. Got the bed lift kit from HATCHLIFT.COM after discussing my problem with Gary there. He recommended 120#. They were a snap to install and work like a charm. Could have downsized it a bit, but I think this will do fine!![/quote]Well the biggest issue I see is that it looks like you keep the liquor under the bed and that's just not easy enough to access!
That's just for travel. Drinking some right NOW in Florida. Just switched from long to short sleeved shirt. Big smile on my face. Happy Trails.....
[quote timestamp="1420853894" author="@charliem" source="/post/5925/thread"][quote timestamp="1420846876" author="@gleamb" source="/post/5924/thread"][/quote][font size="3"]You don't say what the original mattress was that you discarded. My 2014 RBS came with a decent 8" mattress, but I got the impression it was a fairly new upgrade. The earlier models we saw while shopping had a much thinner mattress. My RBS came with 20" struts rated at 140 Newtons which converts to 31#. Best I can find on your ML 34-30 they are about equivalent, just a different vendor. I used 60# struts which work fine for the OEM 8" mattress with a 2-3" foam topper. Without the topper the 60 pounders are still OK, but 40s would probably work too. Unless you're short on vitamins it's better to have too much than too little. It's just harder to close, but too little won't hold the bed open. Definitely 130# would be overkill and might even eject you through the roof!
[/font][/quote]Thanks Charliem........I got a big laugh after a hard day when reading about being ejected through the roof!
I am in the market for 60# struts also so thanks for the link.
Thanks for the info I used just one of the 60 pound struts on my 14DBS and now it works like it did before. Now with my foam pad, sheets, pillow, blankets and my acoustic guitar it stays up where it should.
I put new 80 lb gas struts on my 21BHS rear bunk replacing the 40 lb. struts LL had installed. I got them from futurervsales. They sell the exact same strut, I found out the ML34-40 means 40 lbs., 60 means 60 etc. There is another number on the strut indicating it was 27 inches long. Mary in customer service told me they were all the same price 40, 60, or 80 lbs. and the cost was $44.95 for two struts which included the freight. Very little effort is needed now to raise the back bunk with mattress and blankets, it also stays open until closed. My bride said worth every cent!